15 replies to this topic

[IamSherwood]

Once again, I'm trying to find a way around the issue
of having to use limiter straps on either the deck cylinder, or 3pt
cylinder in order to use one or the other. It's just not
user friendly.
With Tudors help, we accomplished that by putting a 12v solenoid
valve on board to activate the 3ph cyl. That is on my MF16, and
is working fine. Using other parts I have laying around, I'd like
to try a bit of a different approach for a 3pt for my MF14 worker.
Bob, since one of your projects is in the rough,(:rolleyes:) hopefully you'll
have a moment to cipher this.

Here is a picture of the valve I have, and a really rough sketch
of my idea.
The valve is a 12volt, 3 way, 2 position.(from the Eaton code decipher)
There is another port below the "20197A"

[Alc]

Do you have 2 of those solenoid valves ? Might work better if you did , Al

[TUDOR]

It will work fine as long as the valve is on the lifting end of the cylinders. There may be a little bounce on the one cylinder if you put full down pressure on the other.

The location of the "T" may be interesting for hose clearance.

[IamSherwood]

The only issue I can forsee, is that it may take some time to get the air out of the system, as it could get forced into
the cylnder that is restriced. I think I'll have to do a fair bit of bleeding.

On the 14 and 16 there is already a "T" at either end of the deck cyl. From those "T"'s one was supposed to then
run hoses to the 3pt cyl, and put the limiting strap on the deck cyl.

[ducky]

Should work just Fine.
The air will work itself up.

[Texas Deere and Horse]

I would use 2 valves, 1 on each side. That would eliminate any pressure on the unused circuit. Just my 2 cents worth....

[MAV]

I may not understand for sure what you are trying to do but couldn't you just use a lockout valve or a diverter valve?

[Big John]

The Surplus Center in Lincoln Neb. has manual valves that will let U choose which of
two cylinders U want to use. These would work & U wouldn't need any wiring.

[MAV]

Something like this.

Attached Thumbnails

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[Texas Deere and Horse]

No, I was saying that I would put a valve on both lines...up and down...

[IamSherwood]

No, I was saying that I would put a valve on both lines...up and down...

Brian, I hear what you're saying.
Originally MF designed the system as such.
There is a single spool valve behind the dash. ( no room for double)
If you bought the opional 3pt, they supplied you with 1/4"x 1 1/4" x approx 12" long limiter straps
that you would put on the cylinder that you didn't want to use at the time.
The other cylinder was then free to move, as it was teed into the lines of the first cylinder.
There was still pressure in the first cylnder, except it couldn't move because of the limiter
strap which imobilized it.

So, basicly what I'm trying to do is create that limiter strap by blocking the
outflow of the first cylinder. Yes there will be pressure in that cylinder, but I think
thats ok. Gaskets must be exersised. Same as original design.
Also, it's pretty tight under the tin, and it's gonna be hard enough to find room
for 1 directional valve.

MAV, those are nice valves, and would do the job, but part of this whole
project, is that I don't want to get my butt off the seat to go around behind
the tractor, and turn valves. I like switches on the dash. And I already
have the valve, so not too much $$ to be spent.

[IamSherwood]

Had time today to start this project.
Got the stand off bracket built to adapt the MF1450 3pt to the
back of my MF14 working girl. She's not pretty, but runs great.
Also made up the under seat cylinder and valve mounting bracket.
Next step is to figure out where to run the plumbing.
I've accumulated a few of the OE steel tube/hose hydraulic lines.
How would one go about bending those steel lines, without kinking
them?
I'm not even sure if I can use them, but it sure would cut down on
the cost of this project if I could.
As you can see in the pics, I hardly had to butcher the seat pan to make
this fit. Bonus.

[TUDOR]

Also made up the under seat cylinder and valve mounting bracket.
Next step is to figure out where to run the plumbing.
I've accumulated a few of the OE steel tube/hose hydraulic lines.
How would one go about bending those steel lines, without kinking
them?
I'm not even sure if I can use them, but it sure would cut down on
the cost of this project if I could.

Tubing bender, but not from CTC. Those are stainless and are hard to bend, period. You're talking a little upscale in the tool department to do a good job. I don't think PAL can help either. The cost of the proper tool may make using fittings and hoses the less expensive route.

Check on line.

[IamSherwood]

All done, and working.
Here are some pics.
Heck of challenge getting all the plumbing in there.
Had enough stuff around, that it cost 0$. I like that.

[Alc]

Nice job ! And great price too.