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1959 Bolens ride a matic restoration help


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#46 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 09:25 PM

Primer is porous as to let paint adhere better and as such will take in moisture, so as a rule prime then paint. I know you see people with primed cars rolling around but that is not a good idea. Your paint will bubble and the color will not be uniform. If you want to wait until spring at least shoot a sealer so the primer is protected. In the spring a light wet sand and your in buisness. I am not intending to sound rude but I spent many years in the Navy as a paint and corrosion supervisor and I hate to see a to of work ruined by a lack of Intel!
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#47 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 09:29 PM

I did not mean to infer a lack of intelligence on your part, I simply meant to share lessons learned. I apologize as my wife has pointed out my mistake as usual!
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#48 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2015 - 12:50 PM

I did not mean to infer a lack of intelligence on your part, I simply meant to share lessons learned. I apologize as my wife has pointed out my mistake as usual!

 Yes were all here to attempt to help one another, so I don't think he will take it that way. Or atleast I didn't! :thumbs:  Good info and very true, I had a bad primer experience buying a jeep that had a few rust spots that the PO primered to "protect it'. Well within weeks rust popped right through and I had some fun redoing everything again. 



#49 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2015 - 02:34 PM

No hard feelings over here - this is all new so I will take all the help I can get! Upon thinking about it I am going to get paint and paint if before winter though. The garage is about 10 degrees warmer than outside and I think I can move some stuff around and paint in the garage, get it all done and let it set over winter and assemble in the spring.

 

I was gonna get some auto paint but it is way too expensive for this project for now. I'm thinking some Valspar tractor paint will do.



#50 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2015 - 07:40 PM

Just wondering were you planing to go original or are you doing a custom job? The paint codes are on this site I believe, so if you want I think you should be able to get it mixed at your local paint supply for a descent price seeing as you won't need a ton of paint. If you plan to shoot in your garage you can use a box fan and a cheap furnace filter along with some plastic sheeting to convert your space to a cheap positive pressure paint booth! This will allow you to shoot with far less paint hanging in the air and will give you better results as the air will remain much more steady.

#51 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2015 - 08:23 PM

Just wondering were you planing to go original or are you doing a custom job? The paint codes are on this site I believe, so if you want I think you should be able to get it mixed at your local paint supply for a descent price seeing as you won't need a ton of paint. If you plan to shoot in your garage you can use a box fan and a cheap furnace filter along with some plastic sheeting to convert your space to a cheap positive pressure paint booth! This will allow you to shoot with far less paint hanging in the air and will give you better results as the air will remain much more steady.


I have to agree with him here. I believe by the time you prep everything, use a a good primer, I usually get mine from napa, and if you went with spray paint, it will take a lot of cans, and Come out ok, it will only last for a few years and then start to fade, and blemish, and rust will come back through. If you go with automotive paint, it may cost just alittle more by the time all is said and done, but you will be much happier with the finished product, durability, and longevity of the product. I think bolens1000 can help with the paint codes, but it is posted somewhere on the site. Good luck on which ever direction you decide! Don't forget the pictures!!!

Edited by fonz3482, September 29, 2015 - 08:25 PM.


#52 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2015 - 11:06 PM

Thanks guys - I like the garage paint booth idea. I am gonna use a spray gun and compressor but was thinking of doing the Valspar implement paint and hardener. I did find the code for the NAPA paint but the VOC has changed apparently and its $90 a quart - just a bit too much right now. And ultimately the daughter and wife like a JD or Oliver green look more than the metallic green so I wanted to do that for them.

Anyway, I hope it's not a bad choice with the Valspar, it will be stored covered to hopefully prolong its life.

Question - the blaster said they use paintable caulk after priming and run a bead along the places where two plates are welded or is a small gap between metal pieces. Do you guys do that?

Edited by Manfjourde, September 29, 2015 - 11:07 PM.


#53 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2015 - 02:26 AM

Personally I like the look of painted raw welds on tractors but as far as caulk I am not sure the benefit there. If they are referring to using it as a filler I guess that would be a personal preference thing. Welds on machinery should be complete, what I mean to say is not spot welded which would leave a gap between welds, if there is spot welding on your machine when its blasted you should run the welds to completion for strength and aesthetics. If you simply want to round out the corners then most would use a bondo material unless you want to go really old school and learn to work lead. As to your original question implement paint should be very durable because it was meant to hold up to wear and tear more so than automotive paint which requires sealants and wax. In my opinion you will be happy with the results as long as you take the time to lay the paint correctly, paints worst enemy is a poor application! Good luck and don't forget to enjoy yourself, this hobby can be very rewarding if you let it.
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#54 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2015 - 10:04 AM

Yes implement paint sprayed through a gun should work great. My wife's grandpa uses that on his machines. He restored a ford 8n about 4yrs ago and leaves it outside all year round uncovered. It has held up well to the elements so far. Slight fading though, but he's never waxed or protected it from the sun either, so thats expected I guess. I thought you were going to spray paint the tractor, which works well and looks good initially, but all the work I did on blasting, sanding, prepping and painting my 1050, the finish didn't last long at all, and it was always stored indoors. I also used alot more rattle cans then expected because the white needed several coats to fully cover, so I think for just a few more dollars I could of had it all sprayed with good primer and paint. So good luck, im sure it will come out great!! Take your time, enjoy it, and take lots of pictures for us!!  :rocker2:   


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#55 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2015 - 10:51 AM

Thank you for the replies and advice!

Last night I got all the small parts primed, tonight I'll turn them over and do the other side. I plan to paint Thursday through Saturday when I have time and will post more pics of the progress.

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#56 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2015 - 12:48 PM

Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product!
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#57 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2015 - 08:57 PM

Okay an update! I got a red scuffing pad and scuffed and then a tack cloth and then painted! The wife helped me out and had the kids all day while I was able to paint! I used hardener 8:1 ratio and no thinner. It sprayed a bit thick but it didn't feel like it needed thinning. I did one light coat and let it flash then one other thick one.

For the wheels I did a light coat all around and then heavy except for the side that will face outward. T I will mount them and then use pizza boxes to cover the tires and finish off the outside of the wheel.

The Valspar Oliver green was significantly thicker than the Transport yellow and I love both colors. I know the Bolens fans will dog me for not going with the right green but price was a factor and I really like the deep green and yellow together.

How long should I wait before turning parts over and doing the other side?

Also I got this Cub 125 for $100 locally - it hasn't run in a year but I couldn't pass it up and like you guys said - it is an addiction!

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#58 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 11:59 AM

The tires are being mounted today. I did a light coat on the outside of the wheel, when I finish painting do I need to clean it with some wax/grease remover and then spray? I'm wondering this because they are being put on by a tire shop and I'm thinking they'll be dirty.



#59 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2015 - 12:12 AM

If they are dirty soap and water would be best, always try the least agresive first. As to your earlier question you can flip when the paint is no !longer tacky. I just wanted to add that thinning paint serves more purpose than just making it easier to spray, thinner can help paint adhere properly and also ensure that the paint remains uniform while in the gun thus letting the paint coming out of the nozzle remain the same texture. The thinner also when done properly can prevent over spray from ruining your new paint job, properly thinned paint will atomize out of the nozzle and anything other than your direct spray pattern should dry before said over spray can reach the surface! As far as hardener goes in my experience it can make cleaning the gun, especially a not so expensive gun, very difficult. In the worst cases it can ruin your gun,just like a carb those orifices need to remain very clear and open, otherwise your spray pattern can be severely affected! I am glad your experience is rewarding for you keep up the good work. Feel free to message me with any other paint or bodywork questions, I enjoy sharing the knowledge the Navy bestowed on me. Eric.
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#60 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2015 - 12:15 AM

I also forgot to mention, nice cub they are fun strong machines. One of my first restorations was a cub 127, it was a joy to work on! Have fun they are real workhorses.
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