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1959 Bolens ride a matic restoration help


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#16 wilberj OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2015 - 07:03 PM

Nice looking machine, I do not have any reverse discs at the moment but there is a guy that should have them called Hank watkins , I believe he always keeps a few reproductions on hand, I don't know his number but someone on here should have it for you.

 

 

I got a reverse disk for my '58 from Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors, a site sponsor. It's been a few years though.

Looks like a good tractor. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

 

Bobs now has them Hank no longer sells the reverse disk.



#17 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2015 - 11:11 PM

About how long can I expect a reverse disc to last? I'm wondering if I should get 2 or just one.

I'm currently working on getting the tiller off to set aside for now and get the tractor in the small area of garage where I can work on it better. Hooray for rusted bolts...not;)

I'll try to shoot a vid before I take everything apart. Any special tips on storing the engine other than the norms for gas engines?

#18 fonz3482 ONLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2015 - 02:57 AM

Not really that I can think of besides the normal, draining of fuel or stabil the fuel. We "fog" our race car motors when they are gonna sit. Can't hurt anything to do that I guess.

#19 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2015 - 09:35 AM

Well after some heat and twisting I was able to loose the pins for the tiller and drop it and the shaft late last night. Then I fired it up (one pull) and drove around the yard a bit - I love this thing! Here are some pics, let me know if that reverse disc look normal or if I need a new one. Also, does the pulley(?) that spin to touch the reverse disc normal?

 

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#20 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2015 - 12:03 PM

Well after some heat and twisting I was able to loose the pins for the tiller and drop it and the shaft late last night. Then I fired it up (one pull) and drove around the yard a bit - I love this thing! Here are some pics, let me know if that reverse disc look normal or if I need a new one. Also, does the pulley(?) that spin to touch the reverse disc normal?

Your reversing disc is worn out, looks like there is nothing left to it. It should be "V" shaped, tge mirror image to the pulley groove. It looks like your hub is pushing against the pulley. My '59 still has its original disc so they will last a long time. If you are only using it to "play" with and not as a regular yard machine, I would only order one.
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#21 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 09:15 AM

Thank you. I ran into a problem last night. The steering wheel appears to be completely stuck and there are hammer marks on the underside where it looks like someone tried unsuccessfully to remove it. In thinking of cutting through the shaft and making a sleeve to weld on or use pins or something to hold it all in place.

Any other suggestions on getting it off?

#22 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 09:43 AM

If worst comes to worst you can cut it off and get a new one, they are the same as the farmall cubs and are not too bad in price either!

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3a74460f2b


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#23 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 09:54 AM


Any other suggestions on getting it off?

 

Do you have an air hammer?   .....Try using a blunt chisel held against the bottom of each spoke where they meet the hub.  .....The upward force along with the hammering action usually takes them off easily.


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#24 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 11:37 AM

Use a gear puller. And heat the hub with a torch.

#25 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 11:42 AM

Thanks guys. Do I need to be concerned about the gears at the bottom of the shaft if I hit it with an air hammer? I can get one of those easy.

#26 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 12:30 PM

I would be concerned about damaging the gears with an air hammer or even beating on it with a hammer. That is why I suggested a gear puller, it puts all of the stress into the steering wheel hub, not the shaft. If you buy a gear puller, don't make the mistake I made. I was trying to pull the steering wheel off of my '58. I used a small, light duty puller and ended up bending the screw. Get a more heavy duty puller. Put a nut between the screw and shaft so that you don't mushroom the shaft. Put a fair amount of preasure on it. If it doesn't move then you can give the screw on the puller a swift wrap with a hammer to try and shock the hub into freeing up. But if you heat the hub up it should pull of fairly easily.
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#27 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2015 - 04:31 PM

A little update. I decided to cut off the steering wheel and just go with a new one. The grip was cracked and horrible and figured a new one would be easy. It took some time trying to balance working and taking care of the kids but late at night I worked on it and made some progress. I used a high TPI blade in a jig saw and it worked well to cut through the hub. I was also able to get a bit more stripped down. A couple questions...

 

Are my pulleys misaligned? If so I would assume I can shim them with some shims or washers to get them aligned correctly. The reverse disc looks to be off and the pulley that it rubs on is worn weird. Is that bad? If so can I replace it?

 

As far as sandblasting, are there any parts that I shouldn't sand blast and just hit with a wire wheel? I'm mostly wondering if some are too small to make it worth it or what not. Thanks in advance.

 

 

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#28 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2015 - 04:52 PM

Reverse disc is gone and will need replacing, the pulleys look good though, usually the easiest way to line up the sheaves is when you have a good reverse disc, make the engine pulley loose so it moves freely  then engage the reverse lever, the disc will slip into the groove and align your sheave so it wont be causing premature wear on the reverse disc, generally if the reverser is in line the rest of the pulleys are too.

 

It all depends on how far you want to go on the repaint, sand blasting will require removal of all bearings/ bushings or heavy taping/plugging the holes, sand from the blaster will get into places you cant even imagine! (Learned that my very first restoration :) ) 

 

  I usually have everything blasted except the engine block itself, that I'll do with a wire wheel to bare metal.


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#29 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2015 - 04:59 PM

I wire wheeled everything on my Snapper and I would say if something was really greasy, gunk it first. A wire wheel just smears grease and does a horrible job. Rust and old paint, that it what a wire wheel is meant for. If it were me, I'd wire wheel what you can and blast the rims, those are a pain. But it's totally up to you, wheeling  takes quite a bit of time and effort.



#30 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2015 - 05:02 PM

I favor using cheep oven cleaner to get down to the metal.  It is made to remove grease and other grim, including paint.  Oven cleaner is caustic so be careful so as not to breath in any fumes.  Spray it on, leave it for 15 to 20 min.  Then knock it off with the pressure washer.  If you have some hard stuff you may have to get the putty knife on it first.  Dollar Store brand cleaner works good and a lot cheaper the Gunk and the other stuff.  Protect your eyes and keep you nose and mouth covered!

 

Here is a RAM I cleaned up with oven cleaner and pressure washer.  Good luck with your project and have fun.

 

Ride-1.JPG       Ride-4.JPG


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