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Bolens 900 transmission issue


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#16 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2015 - 09:33 PM

Well, the parts arrived today, (thanks, Brian), and I got the bronze bushing and new larger oil seal installed without incident.  The leak has stopped.

 

The rear hubs on the 900 had both been replaced by 5-bolt hubs.  The right one seems to be missing one bushing, and the wheel was flopping a bit on the hub.  I temporarily replaced the 5-bolt hub with an as-new 3-bolt that I had been given when I purchased the tractor.  Between the bronze bushing and the new hub, the slop has all but been eliminated.

 

I set the endplay, refilled the transmission, put the wheels on, and lowered the jack... started the engine, and... nothing.  It won't move again.

 

Im guessing I have something adjusted wrong, or something is really screwed up inside the transmission.  The tractor moves freely with the pin in or out of the rear wheel.  The shift lever appears to work normally, but the tractor moves whether or not the gear shift is engaged, or not.

 

I guess I'll try and readjust the endplay tomorrow, and maybe take the top off the transmission and poke around again.

 

If anybody has any thoughts, feel free to comment!


Edited by SgtMoonracer, August 28, 2015 - 07:34 PM.


#17 fonz3482 ONLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 06:25 AM

So when you bought the tractor the rearend was operating properly, but was just leaking fluid?? If so, I would think something didn't go back together right. I'm not much help because I haven't had one of these rearends apart in a long time, but hopefully you pull it apart again and its a simple fix. This 900 seems to want to fight you every step of the way so far!!

#18 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 07:28 AM

Sounds like you may have two gears bound at once, sometimes that happens to a worn shiftier of if you bump the push rods while the tranny is apart

 

May have to pull the cover and see if you are really in neutral or of you need to pull the shiftier and reset the yokes in their correct position.



#19 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 09:01 AM

I'm guessing I have something adjusted wrong, or something is really screwed up inside the transmission.  The tractor moves freely with the pin in or out of the rear wheel.  The shift lever appears to work normally, but the tractor moves whether or not the gear shift is engaged, or not.

 

 

If anybody has any thoughts, feel free to comment!

 

Broken axle ???



#20 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 09:15 AM

Let me start by adding that the only thing I did differently during the bushing and seal replacement was I kind of pulled the axle toward the left side of the tractor in an attempt to force the left wheel hub into pushing the bushing into the gear case.  I wrenched the castle nut tightly against the wheel hub, which, in retrospect, I think may have pulled the axle a bit left.  Could I have pulled something out of alignment, or pulled the axle far enough left that it's not making contact with something that it should?

 

The transmission cover is off.  I really don't know what I'm looking for, but when I manually move the yokes, in no position will the gears prevent the wheels from turning.  Moving the tractor back and forth, all of what I would describe as the drive gears seem to be spinning or moving except for the worm wheel.  

 

Again, just being smart enough to figure out how to take the transmission cover off, I'm not sure what I did.  I did start and drive this after the second seal replacement, so I had to do something during the third go round.



#21 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 07:57 PM

Update:  I forgot to mention earlier that I also used the hub as a tapping block to force the bushing into the gear case. I did not use a lot of force, but did ram the bushing into the case by sliding the hub into it, all the while sliding it over the axle. 

 

At some point (see above), it appears that I sheared the axle pin that prevents the right side drive hub from moving right on the axle shaft toward the right wheel.  The hub appeared to be 3/4 of an inch or so past the pin. I was able to get the axle pulled back to the right, possibly about where it was supposed to be, but there seem to be additional issues.  

 

I don't understand exactly how this whole assembly is supposed to work, but obviously something isn't right.  The right side bevel gear does not seem to want to stay engaged with the worm wheel.  The worm wheel seems to have a fair amount of play.  Is it supposed to ride on something, or does it kind of hang out on the bevel gears?  The tractor does not stay locked in gear no matter the gear shift lever setting, and the free wheeling hub on the right side free wheels with the pin in or out.  Turning the drive shaft by hand does seem to move the tractor.  I think that the right side bevel gear is supposed to engage the notches on the right side drive hub when the left hand drive cone is turned in, but I can't figure out what keeps the notches disengaged when the cone is turned out.

 

I'm thinking I should have picked the 850 the guy had for sale.


Edited by SgtMoonracer, August 28, 2015 - 08:02 PM.


#22 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 09:56 PM

Boy this thing has really been giving you a hard time,if you don't get it figured out I may have another trans laying around,pm me for info,I really hope you can get it figured out,does look like a nice unit



#23 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2015 - 10:57 PM

One of my reasons for buying this one was it's restored appearance, which was what I believed to be a selling feature for the wife.  It had been restored at some time in the past, with new paint, stainless steel hardware, etc.  I expected less resistance in bringing this one home.  Unfortunately, as with many things I touch, a minor seal problem has turned into a bit of a nightmare.

 

I think I'm dealing with a solid foundation for a working unit, but I don't have endless time or resources to make it plow-worthy, which was all I was looking for from the get-go.

 

blackjackjakexxix, I may be in touch.

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#24 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 12:05 AM

Update:  I forgot to mention earlier that I also used the hub as a tapping block to force the bushing into the gear case. I did not use a lot of force, but did ram the bushing into the case by sliding the hub into it, all the while sliding it over the axle. 

 

At some point (see above), it appears that I sheared the axle pin (I'm not sure what you mean by "pin" - do you mean the key ?) that prevents the right side drive hub from moving right on the axle shaft toward the right wheel.  The hub appeared to be 3/4 of an inch or so past the pin. I was able to get the axle pulled back to the right, possibly about where it was supposed to be, but there seem to be additional issues.  

 

I don't understand exactly how this whole assembly is supposed to work, but obviously something isn't right.  

 

The right side bevel gear does not seem to want to stay engaged with the worm wheel.  See my statement #1 below.

 

The worm wheel seems to have a fair amount of play.  Is it supposed to ride on something, or does it kind of hang out on the bevel gears? The inside diameter of the worm wheel should be a slip fit on the axle shaft.

 

The tractor does not stay locked in gear no matter the gear shift lever setting, and the free wheeling hub on the right side free wheels with the pin in or out.  Turning the drive shaft by hand does seem to move the tractor.

 

 I think that the right side bevel gear is supposed to engage the notches on the right side drive hub Correct.  when the left hand drive cone is turned in, No, all the time! but I can't figure out what keeps the notches disengaged when the cone is turned out. They should always be engaged.  .....See statement #2 below.

 

 

 

Have you seen the Service  Manual ?   http://gardentractor...anual-552875-1/

 

Look at Page 3-12 and look at the reference numbers on that drawing (they are not part numbers).  ...It may be helpful to print out that page and look at it while reading my comments.

 

#1  It is possible that in your repair that you have moved the drive collar (ref# 69) from its proper position on the axle shaft.  ....There is a depression machined in the axle shaft to receive the square-head set screw (ref # 70).    ....This would allow some of the excess play you are experiencing.  ...The drive collar (ref #69) is always engaged with the right differential gear (ref # 68).

 

#2 The right-side drive hub with the free-wheeling pin (ref #8)  is keyed to the axle shaft and always turns when the axle turns.   .....The left-side drive hub (ref #54) is not keyed to the axle shaft, and spins freely on the axle shaft, allowing the differential action.  ...This hub is always engaged with the left differential gear (ref # 63). 

 

The tapered cone (ref #48) is keyed to the sleeve (ref #50), which in turn is keyed to the axle shaft, so whenever the axle turns, the tapered cone (ref#48) turns.

 

When you tighten the differential locking knob (ref #45) you are forcing the tapered cone (ref # 48) to seat into the tapered recess of the left drive hub (ref # 54).  ...This now locks the left-side drive hub (ref #54) to the axle rotation, thus eliminating the differential action.

 

The differential lock knob (ref #45) should normally be in the "out" (counter-clockwise) position.  .....Turning the lock knob "in" (clockwise) should only be done when traction is lost.   .....Making turns with the differential locked puts a lot of stress on the internal parts. 

 

If you look at page 3-16 of that Service Manual, you can see a cross-section drawing of the assembled axle assy.  .....Hopefully, that will help clarify things a little more.  ....Disregard the text about needing the worm centering tool.  .....Do read the text about re-installing the shims.


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#25 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 07:54 AM

Bruce, thank you for the explanation.  That helps.  However, you linked to the 6 speed axle drawing, and mine is the three speed.  I have been referencing this parts diagram: http://www.mytractor...arts_manual.pdf   It shows a drive pin (#40) that installs in the vicinity of the key way.  I can see the key way, and part of the square key, and what I think is the remains of he sheared pin in the drive shaft.

 

The drive collar (#69) you refer to (#60 on the three-speed drawing), is the part that I moved, and I assume it was held where it used to be by the drive pin.

 

When moving the wheels while looking down into the gear box, nothing sees to keep the right drive hub engaged with the bevel gear. It pops out as the wheels turn. (This refers to parts 68 and 69 on the 6-speed).

 

I wont have a chance to work on this today... ball game, then a wedding.  Maybe back at it tomorrow.


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#26 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 08:43 AM

Bruce, thank you for the explanation.  That helps.  However, you linked to the 6 speed axle drawing, and mine is the three speed.  

 

Sorry about that  !!   :(  .....I was thinking you had a Bolens 1000, even though the title of this thread clearly states Bolens 900. :wallbanging:

 

The Parts Manual you have been using should be correct for your tractor.  ...The early transaxles were different than the later transaxles shown in the Service Manual which I linked to.

 

If the pin has sheared, things will definitely move around.  ...I think you are correct that this is where your problem lies.  .....Later transaxles did not use the pin,  but had a collar welded to the shaft to locate the worm wheel.

 

The differential lock operates the way I described above, although the parts are slightly different.


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#27 fonz3482 ONLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2015 - 08:35 PM

Should of just left that 900 for me! Lol! I had a car like that, 1 step forward on improving it, and 2 steps back as soon as I drove it. It was a 10yr project that would never let it self stay nice. Had to let it go last fall!

#28 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2015 - 09:03 PM

Well, I'm sure everyone is curious as to how I made out today, or, maybe you're just bored and could use a laugh.

 

I realized when rechecking what I did Friday that I forgot to put the key back in the right axle after moving the drive collar back where it was supposed to be.  Once I did that, the gears seemed to respond how I thought they should.  I can't seem to get to the sheared off drive pin, so I decided to leave well enough alone and see if it would move.

 

I thought I had the endplay adjusted, and when I fired it up and engaged reverse, it actually went backwards!  I started down the driveway, and it kicked out of gear a couple times, and eventually stopped moving once I got it on level pavement.  I reset the endplay, but ran into a problem when I barely had enough cotter-pin hole left on the right axle to get the pin in.

 

So... I started it up again, and decided to head up the slope toward the back yard next to the garage.  It didn't seem to have much power, and suddenly started to kick in and out of gear.  Now, at this point, I was on the steepest part of the slope, between the garage and my trailer.  The slope was steep enough that when the doggone thing jumped completely out of gear and started backwards, and I mashed the brake pedal to the floor and nothing happened, that I got slightly worried.  In retrospect, I should have gotten really worried, but I didn't have time.

 

The slope did not improve for at least 60 feet, at which point I would have crossed the driveway and headed down a cliff toward a creek in the neighbor's yard, so, thinking as quickly as possible, I cut the wheels to the right after I passed the trailer.  As the tractor started to tip, I somehow threw myself off, landing on my feet while the 900 rolled twice, coming to rest on its side, (still running).  The oil bath air cleaner dumped its contents over the engine, causing quite a festive amount of smoke until I was able to get the engine shut off.  

 

I may have tweaked my back a bit, but otherwise, I'm uninjured. (I know someone would ask). The 900 suffered a bent-up steering wheel, both headlight bulbs were ejected from their housings, (and I can't find one of the retainer clips), the hood was scuffed a bit, and it seemed to have an oil leak somewhere in the vicinity of the bottom of the air cleaner.

 

I picked the thing up and put it back on all four wheels, wiped up some oil, and left it along the driveway.  I have not tried to start it.

 

Two positives from the experience:  1. I'm uninjured.  2. My wife and neighbors didn't see it happen and are none the wiser.

 

I'm going to have to give this some thought.  I'm already about $80 in the hole in parts to get this transmission/gear case up and running, but it was kind of obvious as I was accelerating backwards that THIS ISN'T GOING TO WORK!  I'm aware of a local 1050 sans engine that supposedly has a good transmission (and a deck, and probably a straight steering wheel), that I can pick up somewhat reasonably. I could re-power the 1050, or  re-gear the 900.

 

I appreciate all of the help I have received in my short time here, and I hope I may have entertained you with my (absolutely true) "day with the tractor".



#29 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2015 - 09:36 PM

Just glad to see your not hurt,take a couple days away from it and rethink what you want to do



#30 fonz3482 ONLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2015 - 09:38 PM

Oh boy, good thing your ok. Its a shame, the tractor looks so nice, but doesn't perform that way for you.  Of course now you have more to deal withm with cosmetic issues and hopefully the moor didnt get hurt while running on its side.   I personally like the looks of the 900 better than a 1050. IMO there are alot more Bolens that have the 1050 styling, than the 900 styling still around.






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