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Bolens 900 transmission issue


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#1 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2015 - 10:47 PM

I've been lurking here for a  while, and finally purchased an 800/900 hybrid over the weekend with a leaking left axle seal. (The tractor is supposed to be a 1964 900, but has metal, curved fenders with a tool box, and an incorrect Wisconsin TRA 10D engine manufactured in 1966).

 

I replaced the axle seal, but in the process, damaged the other, larger, seal.

 

I replaced the large seal, and re-installed the axle and wheel, drained the remaining fluid and refilled it. For a reason I can't figure out, the tractor will not move.  The gear shift lever seems to go into each gear, but the tractor will not move in any gear.

 

What did I install incorrectly?



#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 05:21 AM

Welcome to GTTalk !   Lots of Bolens members here so I'm sure they'll be along to help



#3 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 05:53 AM

Welcome to the forum. I think you got the 900 I was looking at. Was it on craigslist for $300 with no attachments, a small dump trailer and the front headlights are upside down?? The guy also was selling an 850 bolens too for $300? From your description of the problem, it sounds like you have the trans stuck in 2 gears at the same time. I'm not sure if you had the shifter removed while replacing the seals, but I had my 1050 stuck in 2 gears one time, and I can't remember what position the shifter forks need to be in to straighten the issue out. Actually this thread may help-
http://gardentractor...50-help-please/

Edited by fonz3482, August 24, 2015 - 06:07 AM.

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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 07:39 AM

Both shifter rods need to be in the center detent when the cover is replaced and the shift lever pin slides down in the center between the shift rods.  You may have to go at it from the bottom side and physically move one or the other shift rod, or both so they are in the center detent.  That will be your neutral position.  Like Fonz3482 said, your probably stuck in two gears and the pin on the bottom end of your shift lever is not between the two shift rods.  In this case you will need to remove the top cover and re-install it in the correct position.  Hope this helps get you going.



#5 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 08:50 AM

Thanks for the responses.  Fonz3482, you are correct, that's the 900 in question.  He would have liked to make me a deal on both of them, but he didn't have to go home with them to my not-quite-so-understanding-spouse... It had a leak that was noticeable when I looked at it, and the seller and I actually disassembled the axle in his driveway to find the bad seal.  I wasn't careful when I re-installed the wheel hub and I chewed up the large axle seal.

 

Anyway, I checked the shifter and shifter rods, and everything seems to be in the proper position.  The pin on the bottom of the shifter is in the grooves in the shifter rods, and the shifter moves each rod when I shift it.  I did not fool with anything in the transmission when I replaced the seals, I only worked from the left side of the axle.  I kind of figured I re-installed something backwards, or didn't get something aligned correctly, but I hoped to have an idea what to look for before I tear it apart again.



#6 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 09:08 AM

Does the tractor roll if you push it? if you can, the free wheel pin is out of
the rear axle?

Edited by fonz3482, August 24, 2015 - 09:24 AM.


#7 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 09:14 AM

Yes.  It rolls fairly smoothly with the pin pulled out of the right rear wheel.  It rolls, choppily, with the pin in.



#8 Bud W ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 09:23 AM

With the pin in, it shouldn't move at all, the final drive is a worm gear!



#9 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 09:31 AM

I haven't had one of these apart in awhile so I'm kinda stumped at this point. Seems like a keyway is missing or something. Hopefully someone will chime in soon to help you out.

#10 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 09:39 AM

Make sure you set your axle endplay properly, there is a procedure on how to do it in the manuals section.

 

I just did the seal replacements on both sides of my 850 a few days ago and ran into a similar issue, before I even put both wheels on the ground I noticed that turning the left wheel by hand (the side your worked on with the big and small seal) the gear what hardly catching at all, I could just barely feel the gears rubbing. I then realized that the axle had slid out the right ride probably 3/4" , I had just hand tightened the left side and not taken the slack out.

 

Do you have a picture of your rear axle? is your hub on the left side completely flush with your transmission casing? There is a position for that hub to slide into the transmission.


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#11 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 10:02 AM

P8240855.JPG P8240854.JPG I have not yet set the axle endplay.  I did notice that the right wheel had a bit of wobble to it after I installed the left one.  I was not sure if that had been there prior, or if that was something new.

 

The hub is almost completely flush.  There is a very tiny gap, enough that you can see the edge of the axle seal peeking out.  I'll try to attach a picture. 



#12 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 03:15 PM

Update:  I had to replace the larger axle seal, because when I put the first one in, I buggered it up to the point it was out of round, and it dripped a bit.  I was able to obtain the last seal in a ten-mile radius, and installed it.  Apparently when doing so, I screwed up something again, because the seal is leaking worse than it was before.  I also discovered something odd in the axle: P8240864.JPG

 

I took the cover off of the transmission and looked around.  Everything looks fairly normal to my untrained eye.  The only thing that seemed out of whack, (maybe), was a large brass-colored gear (the worm wheel?) that had a bit of play.  Its teeth were concave.[attachment=166146:P8240862.JPG

 

I performed the endplay adjustment.  This seemed to fix the no movement problem, however I had to back off the left adjustment some to allow enough thread to stick out on the right side to get the cotter pin back in the end of the axle. Giving it a quick test spin,  I had some difficulty in going up a grade in low range.  The tractor actually stopped.  I couldn't mess with it too much because I had 90W gear oil pouring out of the axle.

 

Progress, I think.  Thank you all for your help.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • P8240862.JPG


#13 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 04:40 PM

...and, another update and further issues.  Fronz3482, you are probably happy you didn't pick this one up.

 

That piece of brass from the axle is apparently all that remained of what was supposed to be a sleeve that appeared to be pressed into the axle housing.  I thought that that axle and wheel had too much play.  That's because that bushing is missing, and the axle does not fit snugly into the housing.

 

I was given some spare parts when I bought the 900, including a transmission housing.  The brass bushing is present in that transmission.  Is there any way to remove it and install it in my current one?

 

IMAG0486.jpg



#14 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 07:11 PM

Contact Bolens 1000. You maybe able to buy the bushings from him cheap and just put new ones in. Because who knows how worn those are in that rearend.
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#15 SgtMoonracer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 08:29 PM

I sent Bolens 1000 a message, but then found his website and ordered the parts.

 

Thanks... I'll update with progress when the parts arrive.  I've got a couple more days of vacation and may get this back together by the weekend.


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