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De-Carbon an Engine?


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#16 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 06:14 AM

JD, what proportions do you use?

 

Rick, same to you.  How do you use it regularly?  How much do you put where?

 

I ask you both, because I have only used Marvel's Mystery Oil as a lube in my fishing reels and on folding knives.  I've never used it on an engine.

I don't even measure it. I just put approximately 4 oz into the gas tank of my van when getting $20 worth of gas. In small engines, about a tablespoon. If I put too much, the engine will smoke, so I add gas and the smoking stops. Good Luck, Rick


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#17 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 07:46 AM

ALL of the methods mentioned above work very well.


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#18 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 08:26 AM

I have done both on my older cars way back. Pour a little water or tranny fluid down carb while at WOT. Not sure if it helped.

I know put some MMO in my gas every couple fills, seems to help with them running smoother, probably cleaning out carb more than anything.


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#19 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 08:38 AM

I don't even measure it. I just put approximately 4 oz into the gas tank of my van when getting $20 worth of gas. In small engines, about a tablespoon. If I put too much, the engine will smoke, so I add gas and the smoking stops. Good Luck, Rick

My answer is the same.
Dave, you mention using MMO in reels and knives. I used to shoot a Savage 10FP, .223 in Club Matches.
That game did not allow fouling shots between rounds, if you cleaned between rounds.
By mixing MMO 50/50 with Hoppes Benchrest 9, I found a combination fpr cleaning, that would not displace POI(point of impact) on first round from a clean barrel.

Edited by JD DANNELS, August 19, 2015 - 08:59 AM.

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#20 Paulgo ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 08:56 AM

WrenchinOnIt posted a long (thorough) comment on the mechanical procedure for cleaning the K582 in an HT23. He even gives part numbers! Reply #13 and the thread is here: http://gardentractor...-oh/?hl= uh oh


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#21 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 01:12 PM

I've heard many times that Seafoam cleans and prevents carbon.


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#22 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2015 - 02:13 PM

I've heard many times that Seafoam cleans and prevents carbon.

I used to use seafoam but I seen better results with MMO. My dad uses seafoam a lot in his tow truck.
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#23 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2015 - 11:59 AM

WrenchinOnIt posted a long (thorough) comment on the mechanical procedure for cleaning the K582 in an HT23. He even gives part numbers! Reply #13 and the thread is here: http://gardentractor...-oh/?hl= uh oh

Hi Paul , a few more details , YouTube has vids of lapping valves if you decide to go that route .I use various diameters of soft wire wheels in a variable speed drill.I like the cup style for top of the piston, and the wheel type for the heads I have found the die grinder even with soft brushes is to aggressive. A dremel ( or similar) with an assortment of wire brushes is handy to get in the tight spots.

When you compress the valve spring it will push the valve out slightly rap it with a soft faced mallet to pop the valve keepers , one of those small strong magnets on a telescoping wand is handy for retrieval of them out of the oil gallery.

When I pull the valve I chuck it into a battery drill get it spinning and use the bench grinder with a wire wheel mounted, the valve spinning against the rotating wire wheel on the bench grinder makes them as clean as new.

After the lapping is done a very thorough cleaning is a must, you should change the oil anyways (IMO) after procedure is complete, I like the green can of NAPA (CRC) brake cleaner it will blast the crud and the grinding compound out and the smell of it won't drive you out of the garage.

A good tip mentioned several times here by others is a dab of grease on the keepers when reinstalling will hold them in place, the magnet on the wand will help you place them where you want them.

Valve adjustment is valves closed compression stroke, 360 after TDC following exhaust stroke, rotating the clevis clamp to the 11 o'clock position but only if it's going to be a full moon, HUH! WTF! Yea really ,I need stuff K.I.S.S. cause I can be at times.. so do all the valves first , keep the heads off , do the valves one at a time when they're all complete and back in rotate the flywheel till what ever cylinder your on comes to the end of the jug all the way to flush ( or close you'll see as you stroke it thru a revolution) TDC,the valves will be closed,if you reach into the valve stem/tappet galley are the tappets tight against the valves? Can you rotate the tappet? If not rotate the flywheel till the piston makes another revolution to TDC,valves will still be closed, but now the tappets are loose ,get out your feeler gauge and adj. if necessary.

Last check this out , did a couple heads this way before reassembly the machinist that does block work for me suggested this method ,said it makes a difference, he is old school so if he said try it that was good enough for me. I'm anxious to see the results on how they run, if I ever get the tractors done! If you want pics i'll pull a head and take some.

http://www.jeremiahs...com/grooves.htm,
http://m.youtube.com...h?v=PzMgPZxD7Iw

PS, volume off on YouTube, unless you want some rap is crap stuck in your head

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, August 22, 2015 - 02:16 PM.

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#24 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2015 - 12:25 PM

Hi Paul , a few more details , YouTube has vids of lapping valves if you decide to go that route .I use various diameters of soft wire wheels in a variable speed drill.I like the cup style for top of the piston, and the wheel type for the heads

Permatex makes Permatex Gasket Remover which comes in an aerosol can. If you spray it on your heads and piston top and leave it sit for a few minutes, you will be able to wipe the carbon of with a rag. No wire brushes, no digging or scraping.


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#25 Paulgo ONLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2015 - 07:47 PM

Hi Paul , a few more details , YouTube has vids of lapping valves if you decide to go that route .I use various diameters of soft wire wheels in a variable speed drill.I like the cup style for top of the piston, and the wheel type for the heads I have found the die grinder even with soft brushes is to aggressive. A dremel ( or similar) with an assortment of wire brushes is handy to get in the tight spots.

When you compress the valve spring it will push the valve out slightly rap it with a soft faced mallet to pop the valve keepers , one of those small strong magnets on a telescoping wand is handy for retrieval of them out of the oil gallery.

When I pull the valve I chuck it into a battery drill get it spinning and use the bench grinder with a wire wheel mounted, the valve spinning against the rotating wire wheel on the bench grinder makes them as clean as new.

After the lapping is done a very thorough cleaning is a must, you should change the oil anyways (IMO) after procedure is complete, I like the green can of NAPA (CRC) brake cleaner it will blast the crud and the grinding compound out and the smell of it won't drive you out of the garage.

A good tip mentioned several times here by others is a dab of grease on the keepers when reinstalling will hold them in place, the magnet on the wand will help you place them where you want them.

Valve adjustment is valves closed compression stroke, 360 after TDC following exhaust stroke, rotating the clevis clamp to the 11 o'clock position but only if it's going to be a full moon, HUH! WTF! Yea really ,I need stuff K.I.S.S. cause I can be at times.. so do all the valves first , keep the heads off , do the valves one at a time when they're all complete and back in rotate the flywheel till what ever cylinder your on comes to the end of the jug all the way to flush ( or close you'll see as you stroke it thru a revolution) TDC,the valves will be closed,if you reach into the valve stem/tappet galley are the tappets tight against the valves? Can you rotate the tappet? If not rotate the flywheel till the piston makes another revolution to TDC,valves will still be closed, but now the tappets are loose ,get out your feeler gauge and adj. if necessary.

Last check this out , did a couple heads this way before reassembly the machinist that does block work for me suggested this method ,said it makes a difference, he is old school so if he said try it that was good enough for me. I'm anxious to see the results on how they run, if I ever get the tractors done! If you want pics i'll pull a head and take some.

http://www.jeremiahs...com/grooves.htm,


PS, volume off on YouTube, unless you want some rap is crap stuck in your head

Another thorough response. Thanks! You really should start offering workshops in GT repair/rebuilding. I'd sign up. :)  Paul






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