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Starter removal


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#1 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 11:46 AM

Craftsman II, Model 917.255919, Engine Model 422437 type 1256-01

18 hp B&S opposed twin: How the heck do I get the starter out?

Do I have to remove the entire shroud?

Find V twins with vertical shafts but no horizontal information.



#2 farmerall OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 11:50 AM

Yes you will need to remove the flywheel shroud. Then you will need to use a open end wrench to remove the two bolts. They are under the flywheel and you need to line up the recessed area in the flywheel with the top of the bolt. Other wise the bolt will hit the flywheel before being all of the way out of the block. The other way you could do this is to remove the flywheel for easy access to the bolts.


Edited by farmerall, August 18, 2015 - 02:37 PM.

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#3 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 01:12 PM

Nothing like going around your ass to get to your elbow!


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#4 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 01:21 PM

Have done this several times, Farmerall has the procedure correct, I have pictures on here somewhere (Hulk II)?


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#5 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 02:46 PM

Craftsman II, Model 917.255919, Engine Model 422437 type 1256-01

18 hp B&S opposed twin: How the heck do I get the starter out?

Do I have to remove the entire shroud?

Find V twins with vertical shafts but no horizontal information.

Turned out to be a piece o' cake.

Removed shroud bolts, which gave enough room to wiggle the starter out.

Only major concern, afterward, was getting the back bolt in.  Another worry for naught, put the front bolt in finger tight and was able to line back one up and get started with finger tips.

Ol' Murray made another sacrifice to the cause, gear and nose assembly swapped over w/o a hitch.

Somewhat destroyed the original nose assembly by not thinking about how the same task was done 2 months ago on the Murray.  Eh, lesson learned.

Something noticed, PO did a crap job of taking care of the engine.  Found chunks of clay, or whatever, all up in the flywheel area...thinking the motor will be coming out completely to do a thorough clean up. 

Surprised the motor oil level has only dropped a few ounces after 4 weeks of daily use, and it appears somewhat clean, considering.

Have looked all over in manual and on the motor and can't find a filter.

Always been a Briggs fan, just not one of this caliber. 

Thanks  


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#6 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 04:38 PM

No filter on the Engine Model 422437 type 1256-01, it is splash lubed with dipper(s) connected to the bottom of the connecting rods. Don't run the engine on more than a 15* tilt, or will suffer.


Edited by larrybl, August 18, 2015 - 04:39 PM.

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#7 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 04:40 PM

There is no oil filter.  That is a splash oil system.  The air filter is still available from Briggs.  Now a one piece filter though.  Replaced one earlier on my G16xl with Briggs 16 hp L head.  Real ornery to get adjusted right so they will run half way smooth, or at least mine was.


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#8 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 05:55 PM

There is no oil filter.  That is a splash oil system.  The air filter is still available from Briggs.  Now a one piece filter though.  Replaced one earlier on my G16xl with Briggs 16 hp L head.  Real ornery to get adjusted right so they will run half way smooth, or at least mine was.

You're right about the adjusting.  Man, I've tinkering with this engine since day one trying to get it right.  One day it's smooth and steady, few days later, back to loping...runs great otherwise.



#9 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2015 - 08:42 PM

Loping can be cause by a couple issues. Carb throttle shaft bushings worn, Intake leak, Carb float not adjusted properly.

Hulk II after a engine swap and starter repair. https://www.youtube....h?v=dhaH5Tl5gnA






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