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Got an LK!


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#61 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 10:52 AM

Yeah that connector would be for a kill wire

The wire should go from the stud to the connector on the throttle plate and its probably one of those applications where you throttle all the way down to ground it and shut it off (No switch)

 

The very last pic you posted your new red wire attaches to that stud at the end of the throttle plate, thats how you get your on/off 


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#62 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 11:47 AM

Thought so. What spark plug should be in this? It has a Champion RV12C. That has a bevel at the end of the thread and the block is flat like a washer should be there. Found it should be a J-8.



#63 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 02:21 PM

Got the carb cleaned out and started putting that back on. Haven't found how this throttle assy. works the choke. Otherwise, I'm ready to see it will fire off!



#64 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 02:35 PM

If you can't find a tank , that one is repairable, I've saved worse, be weld repaired, no plastics or epoxy, metal to metal. PM me if you find yourself having or wanting to save it.
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#65 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 02:49 PM

The way these are put together you need the throttle all the way up to activate the choke, the one end of the throttle lever should make contact with the choke shaft end and push the butterfly closed, may have to play with the linkages to get it to work 


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#66 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 02:55 PM

If you can't find a tank , that one is repairable, I've saved worse, be weld repaired, no plastics or epoxy, metal to metal. PM me if you find yourself having or wanting to save it.

I can weld a new plate on it. Have to cut the old metal out of the way to clean the rest of the debris out! It's full off crap!



#67 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 02:57 PM

The way these are put together you need the throttle all the way up to activate the choke, the one end of the throttle lever should make contact with the choke shaft end and push the butterfly closed, may have to play with the linkages to get it to work 

Guess I'm not seeing something, as the lever near the choke doesn't come close to working it. I'll look some more!



#68 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 03:51 PM

Well, I seem to have a no spark condition. Took it back apart and unhooked the condenser and still no spark! Have no idea on how to check the magneto.



#69 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 06:58 PM

Kenny:

 

The Tecumseh points are #30547, the condenser # 30548A, the coil #30560.

 

Your condenser original had a ring terminal which fit onto the stud from the points.  ....Your condenser was installed incorrectly, it is upside down.  ....The condenser wire is supposed to come out on the bottom, snaked behind the coil mounting boss, and to the threaded stud.  ....This keeps the condenser lead from getting pinched or chafed by the flywheel.

 

The ground wire from the magneto coil is slid onto the condenser hold-down screw, then through the condenser and threaded into the mounting plate.  

 

The primary wire from the coil gets attached to the threaded stud of the points.   ......The "kill" wire goes onto the spade terminal on the stud.

 

The ignition timing is set by loosening the screws holding the magneto plate and rotating the mounting plate (thus the slots in the mounting plate).  ......Unless someone messed with it in the past, there is no need to check or change it.  .......If you wish to remove the mounting plate assy, , mark around the screw heads so the plate can be reinstalled in the same location.  .....Usually, you can visually tell where the plate was previously.

 

Clean any rust from the ends of the magneto laminations, clean the magnets inside the flywheel, clean the points & set the points at .020". 

 

Those Tecumseh coils were pretty reliable, but they could fail.  ....You can inspect the coil for cracks, and test the continuity of the primary and secondary wirings.  .....Other than that, a magneto tester is needed to test the coil.   .....New coils should not be expensive, but I may have a used one if you need one. 


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#70 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 07:24 PM

Kenny:

 

The Tecumseh points are #30547, the condenser # 30548A, the coil #30560.

 

Your condenser original had a ring terminal which fit onto the stud from the points.  ....Your condenser was installed incorrectly, it is upside down.  ....The condenser wire is supposed to come out on the bottom, snaked behind the coil mounting boss, and to the threaded stud.  ....This keeps the condenser lead from getting pinched or chafed by the flywheel.

 

The ground wire from the magneto coil is slid onto the condenser hold-down screw, then through the condenser and threaded into the mounting plate.  

 

The primary wire from the coil gets attached to the threaded stud of the points.   ......The "kill" wire goes onto the spade terminal on the stud.

 

The ignition timing is set by loosening the screws holding the magneto plate and rotating the mounting plate (thus the slots in the mounting plate).  ......Unless someone messed with it in the past, there is no need to check or change it.  .......If you wish to remove the mounting plate assy, , mark around the screw heads so the plate can be reinstalled in the same location.  .....Usually, you can visually tell where the plate was previously.

 

Clean any rust from the ends of the magneto laminations, clean the magnets inside the flywheel, clean the points & set the points at .020". 

 

Those Tecumseh coils were pretty reliable, but they could fail.  ....You can inspect the coil for cracks, and test the continuity of the primary and secondary wirings.  .....Other than that, a magneto tester is needed to test the coil.   .....New coils should not be expensive, but I may have a used one if you need one. 

Any idea on where to purchase any of those parts? I'd be interested in the coil, gotta start replacing this stuff somewhere! I've already cleaned the flywheel and coil areas. Points were cleaned and set correctly. Still no sign of a spark! Had to quit as I have pulled a bunch of tendons in my RH and yanking that rope took it's toll on that!



#71 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 07:24 PM

 

 

Excellent info Bruce, It seems the assembly is also missing the  dust cover and gasket. with the point gap tool on it, which is why there's so much dirt in that breaker box .

As Bruce mentioned the coils are relatively cheap and the points and condenser are still available , I stock the points and condenser  and can get new coils if necessary. 


Edited by Bolens 1000, April 24, 2016 - 07:43 PM.

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#72 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 07:26 PM

Excellent info Bruce, It seems the assembly is also missing the dust cover and gasket with the point gap tool on it, which is why there's so much dirt in that breaker box .

As Bruce mentioned the coils are relatively cheap and the points and condenser are still available 

Where? And what dust cover? I haven't found a readable copy of a parts list yet!



#73 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 07:40 PM

Where? And what dust cover? I haven't found a readable copy of a parts list yet!

 

Actually It looks like your just missing the black part which if I remember correct is just a paper gasket that keeps the dirt out of that box. I was thinking about my chainsaw point box which is similar but has a different cover. 

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#74 framesteer OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 11:31 AM

Got the carb cleaned out and started putting that back on. Haven't found how this throttle assy. works the choke. Otherwise, I'm ready to see it will fire off!

My LK has a V60 engine, but it has a manual choke lever, but it's a manual (recoil) start, so you have to be off the tractor to get it started anyway, so a manual choke is no big inconvenience.  With electric starter a manual choke lever would be a PITA.  I may have a throttle plate assembly if there is something damaged/missing on yours.  My experience is that you will not easily start that V60 without fully choking it.


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#75 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2016 - 03:11 PM

My LK has a V60 engine, but it has a manual choke lever, but it's a manual (recoil) start, so you have to be off the tractor to get it started anyway, so a manual choke is no big inconvenience.  With electric starter a manual choke lever would be a PITA.  I may have a throttle plate assembly if there is something damaged/missing on yours.  My experience is that you will not easily start that V60 without fully choking it.

This has the flywheel setup for elec. start, but is recoil. There is nothing on the throttle setup that matches the choke arm. Will not work it. Here's some pics from Saturday I forgot to upload. The choke plate was out of alignment to work correctly. Got the screw backed out and realigned correctly. Used some blue thread locker on that. The bowl had some gum in the bottom and some kind of green slimy stuff in it. Cleaned up good with spray carb cleaner.

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DSCN1696.JPG     DSCN1697.JPG

DSCN1698.JPG     DSCN1699.JPG

 

Couldn't get a good pick of the throttle/ choke linkage as yet.


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