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Is This What I think It IS ?


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 09:27 AM

Intake manifold on my H 16.  Does a lot of surging.  Hasn't been run in some time.  Se previous post on Surging Tech on H 16.  could this be the cause of the problem ? ?

 

Crack-1.JPG       Crack-2.JPG

 

 

I removed the front shroud and cleaned the aluminum intake tube good and wiped it down with solvent.  The crack on the inside appears to follow the casting seam on the outside.  I could not see any sign of a crack on the outside of the tube.  Manufacturing defect when the aluminum was poured into the mold for that tube?  I am hoping so and going back to cleaning the carb.


Edited by chieffan, August 11, 2015 - 09:49 AM.


#2 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 10:18 AM

Wonder how they would miss that!?


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#3 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 10:22 AM

It looks like the gasket was leaking.  ....This could cause a vacuum leak which could cause surging.


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#4 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 11:17 AM

Another use for JB Weld?


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#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 12:09 PM

Wonder how they would miss that!?

I was on the inside and figured no one would notice.



#6 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 12:14 PM

It looks like the gasket was leaking.  ....This could cause a vacuum leak which could cause surging.

OK,  what makes you think the gasket was leaking?  They look real good on the carb and are stuck tight so I didn't remove them.  Will put some gasket cement on when I remount the carb just in case.



#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 12:44 PM

Another use for JB Weld?

That would work IF there was a way to cut a grove in the crack for a place for the JB Weld to hang on to.  Just laying it on top, not sure it would stay and don't want in in the engine.


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#8 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 01:56 PM

If you can get the crack in a horizontal position some two part epoxy would run down in the crack.
Mike
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#9 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 02:47 PM

OK,  what makes you think the gasket was leaking?  They look real good on the carb and are stuck tight so I didn't remove them.  Will put some gasket cement on when I remount the carb just in case.

 

The first picture looks like there was a leak along the bottom of the gasket...almost all the way across.  When they get stiff they can separate from the surface and suck air...especially when they get hot.  I find them by getting the engine to surge, then misting some starting fluid around the engine.  You'll get a big surge if it sucks some in.


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#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 03:32 PM

The first picture looks like there was a leak along the bottom of the gasket...almost all the way across.  When they get stiff they can separate from the surface and suck air...especially when they get hot.  I find them by getting the engine to surge, then misting some starting fluid around the engine.  You'll get a big surge if it sucks some in.

OK.  That makes sense.  Put the carb back on and it still surges some but not near as bad.  Will try the starting fluid mist and see what happens.  I did notice my gas tank was close to empty.  I wonder if there was not enough fuel to get all it needed into the carb?  Filled it up, then put some parts back on and will try it in the morning and see what happens.  It don't appear this engine ever had a fuel pump on it.  Plug in the block where the vacuum fitting would be and no paint missing around the hole where it would be screwed to the shroud.  My 14 HP Tech has the fuel pump.  Maybe I need to put a fuel pump on this one ? ?



#11 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 03:34 PM

If you can get the crack in a horizontal position some two part epoxy would run down in the crack.
Mike

It is such a hair line crack I am not sure even the 2 part epoxy would get down into the crack but sure worth a try.  Use that stuff along with JB Quick all the time.



#12 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 04:01 PM

I will not see my cousin till the week after labor day. He has raced all his life and modified ports in heads and found sand pockets he said he filled with epoxy. I know he used a microscope to find the pinholes.

Edited by JD DANNELS, August 11, 2015 - 04:03 PM.


#13 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 04:07 PM

That would work IF there was a way to cut a grove in the crack for a place for the JB Weld to hang on to.  Just laying it on top, not sure it would stay and don't want in in the engine.


Can you get a Dremel grinder in there. I knew a guy who raced motorcycles, and used a Fordom grinder with flex shaft to open the ports.
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#14 backyardtinker OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2015 - 05:23 PM

I used this stuff to repair some bad road rash on my trans-am's  aluminium wheels and it worked perfectly.

http://www.harborfre...rods-44810.html

 

Might want to experiment first on something less important though. I had to use my oxy-acetylene torch due to the thickness and general mass of a 15x8 aluminium wheel, which is quite an effective heat sink, but for that, a plumbers propane torch might be enough.


Edited by backyardtinker, August 11, 2015 - 05:27 PM.

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#15 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2015 - 08:08 AM

That intake tube is about 5" long and curves up and then turns 90° to the left.  I have the flex hand tool but don't think it would reach in there and be able to see what it was doing.  Seeing as how I cannot see any signs of a crack on the outside, I put it back on with a thin film of high temp gasket maker on the carb to intake flange.  It oozed out a very little all around so it is sealed to start with.  Will fire it up this morning (hopefully) and then go with the starting fluid spray and see what happens.  I really appreciate all your input.  Hopefully I can get this one running as smooth and responsive as the 14 that is in the G 12 with 14 hp Tech motor.


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