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Clutch Throwout Bearing Replacement for 104


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#1 morepower302 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2015 - 10:26 PM

Hello Everyone,

I'm in need of input for replacing the trowout bearing on a Cub Cadet 104. The bearing completely fell apart so the clutch can no longer be disengaged. Since I know you fine folks like pictures I've attached a few showing the failed bearing. It's our main tractor for doing barn chores and mowing so I've got to get it back together asap. I've looked over the service manual and it doesn't look like too bad of a job, but does anyone have any tips or pointers? Do you have to pull the complete drive shaft assembly out to replace the bearing? I couldn't decipher from the service manual if the bearing is a press fit or not. Also, is there a better source than a Cub Cadet dealer to get the bearing? Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kyle

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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2015 - 07:02 AM

Do you have the cub number or bearing number?

Its probably a bearing I can get , I believe these were originally the ''Nice" brand and cub lists them for around $50+

I'm a full line bearing and seal dealer and can probably cut that price in half for the same bearing.

 

Cant help you much on installation tips as I never worked on one of these assemblies before.


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#3 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2015 - 10:24 AM

Kyle you'll have to remove the driveshaft to fix a bad throwout bearing . You'll either have to loosen the engine and slide it forward or loosen the rearend and slide it back . Most people take the rearend loose from the frame ( 6 bolts ) and slide it back to get the driveshaft out , you'll have to remove one of the two spiral pins in the rear coupling that pins the driveshaft to the input shaft of the rearend and also take the brake rod loose to slide it back . The front of the driveshaft will simply slide out of the three pin driver . You will also have to remove the clutch rod and throwout bearing bracket pin from the console to get the driveshaft out . Usually the hardest part of the job is removing the rear spiral pin and I'd tackle that before loosening the rearend . Penetrating oil and a good quality flat punch near the same size as the pin is a big help  . You unluckily will also have to disassemble the clutch/driveshaft  assembly to get the new bearing on the driveshaft . The clutch spring holds pressure so be careful when taking it apart (it wont fly apart but might pinch a finger ...lol ).

I usually clamp the driveshaft in a vice when disassembling  

 

I've had clutch jobs that were easy and I've had some that were a bear , it usually depends on how much weather the cubs seen over the years .


Edited by Jlaws, August 07, 2015 - 10:38 AM.

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#4 morepower302 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2015 - 09:53 PM

Do you have the cub number or bearing number?

Its probably a bearing I can get , I believe these were originally the ''Nice" brand and cub lists them for around $50+

I'm a full line bearing and seal dealer and can probably cut that price in half for the same bearing.

 

Cant help you much on installation tips as I never worked on one of these assemblies before.

 

The Cub Cadet OEM P/N is 941-3056. I haven't been able to find any cross-reference numbers for it yet, or any pictures that were close enough to see if anything is stamped into it. The $50.00+ that Cub Cadet wants for it is a bit steep for that size of bearing.  If you can find an equivalent bearing it would certainly be appreciated.


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#5 morepower302 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2015 - 10:11 PM

Kyle you'll have to remove the driveshaft to fix a bad throwout bearing . You'll either have to loosen the engine and slide it forward or loosen the rearend and slide it back . Most people take the rearend loose from the frame ( 6 bolts ) and slide it back to get the driveshaft out , you'll have to remove one of the two spiral pins in the rear coupling that pins the driveshaft to the input shaft of the rearend and also take the brake rod loose to slide it back . The front of the driveshaft will simply slide out of the three pin driver . You will also have to remove the clutch rod and throwout bearing bracket pin from the console to get the driveshaft out . Usually the hardest part of the job is removing the rear spiral pin and I'd tackle that before loosening the rearend . Penetrating oil and a good quality flat punch near the same size as the pin is a big help  . You unluckily will also have to disassemble the clutch/driveshaft  assembly to get the new bearing on the driveshaft . The clutch spring holds pressure so be careful when taking it apart (it wont fly apart but might pinch a finger ...lol ).

I usually clamp the driveshaft in a vice when disassembling  

 

I've had clutch jobs that were easy and I've had some that were a bear , it usually depends on how much weather the cubs seen over the years .

 

Hi Jlaws,

 

Thank you very much for the input.  I knew I may have to slide the engine forward, but didn't think about taking the rear end backwards.  That seems like a better way to do it.  I'll post an update as to how it goes. 


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#6 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2015 - 11:20 PM

Kyle , I've done it both ways , but sliding the rearend back in my opinion is less work and in the IH repair manuals that is their procedure for clutch repair  . If you try and move the engine forward you have to take the front grill surround and hood off because you won't have enough room to slide it forward enough  , plus you would have to disconnect the front PTO linkage which is a hassle because it has to be adjusted back to operate correctly . There is also throttle and choke cables and electrical wiring that may be to short for moving the engine forward enough without disconnecting them .


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#7 RAJ OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2016 - 10:53 AM

I am going through the same thing right now. I was mowing with my 100 a few summers ago and the clutch fork was so rattly that I left my foot on the pedal to keep it quiet. I never thought of the consequence and I overheated the throwout bearing and it seized. I have many projects including other tractors, so I am just getting around to taking it apart now. I figured I'd search the issue on GTtalk, and lo and behold...

I started by removing the grill screen and unhooking the PTO rod. There was just enough room to slide the engine forward and tip it back to get the clutch assembly free from the adapter. I had assumed I would need to take the off the entire grill.
uploadfromtaptalk1453736906915.jpg
I had another 100 at one time with a K301 transplant from a 125. With the dip in the 12hp oil pan, that engine cannot slide far forward like the 10hp flat pan and it was a little tricky getting it in and out around the clutch. I never thought about moving the rearend.

I did eventually find out the hardest part on this job would be to remove the roll pin from the driveshaft coupler. This tractor also has a creeper drive. I've seen holes cut in the top of the chassis on some of these tractors and never realized why that would be, until now. This is my only restored tractor but either way, cutting a hole to get at the driveshaft pin was not an option for me.
uploadfromtaptalk1453736936682.jpg
Thankfully there was just enough room for me to get at it with a punch and a small hammer. Are there any tips or tricks for getting the spring assembly apart and back together? Also, are there any tips or repair parts for fixing some of the slop caused by vibration? My clutch disc has been hogged out from the drive pins and the anti-rattle springs all were broken and missing..
uploadfromtaptalk1453737163442.jpg

Edited by RAJ, January 25, 2016 - 11:11 AM.





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