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#106 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 03:35 AM

Only issue when doing that is you loose lifting power, big time. If you plan on using an auxiliary pump with higher pressures then be sure to build it rugged and it should be fine, if you are using your charge pump for the hydro..... You will be very limited unless the cylinder is large in diameter? Your rig could easily handle 600 lbs at the ball ends with the wheelbase it has, but a 2" cylinder at 800 psi with those length levers will not do it. Trust me on this one, I have done many hours of fiddly farting around to get max lift/ power from the 3 points on my rigs. They will lift about 400# .
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#107 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 03:42 AM

Only issue when doing that is you loose lifting power, big time. If you plan on using an auxiliary pump with higher pressures then be sure to build it rugged and it should be fine, if you are using your charge pump for the hydro..... You will be very limited unless the cylinder is large in diameter? Your rig could easily handle 600 lbs at the ball ends with the wheelbase it has, but a 2" cylinder at 800 psi with those length levers will not do it. Trust me on this one, I have done many hours of fiddly farting around to get max lift/ power from the 3 points on my rigs. They will lift about 400# .

Well, I'm committed to this for now. I can't go bigger than 2" due to space and don't have a longer stroke cylinder.



#108 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 05:49 AM

Kenny, one thing to put in the back of your hat:
A lift assist spring. The weight of most of the attachments would overcome a pretty good sized spring. You could put it above the cyl and may even be able to make it adjustable with a bolt out the back plate
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#109 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 05:57 AM

Kenny, one thing to put in the back of your hat:
A lift assist spring. The weight of most of the attachments would overcome a pretty good sized spring. You could put it above the cyl and may even be able to make it adjustable with a bolt out the back plate

That's a thought, Alan. I may find a longer stroke cylinder before long, so I will weld things for ease in redoing it at a later date. Right now, I am trying to get it running before the show at the end of this month.

Today is getting the fenders set up so I can locate the valve. Lots to do yet!


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#110 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 06:57 AM

You will be fine, my diesel LGT only has a 3" cylinder for the 3 point and it works fine, would at times like a pinch more, but don't often need it.
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#111 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 07:25 AM

Okay, need some input on these pics! I removed the foot board so I could get the fender forward more and raised it up so I had clearance IF I put 26X12's on here at some point. Let me know what you think! Keep in mind I plan to move these inboard an inch when I get the location figured out. That is in case I want to flip the wheels inboard and can still runs chains with the 23X10.50's. RH fender is still down!

2015-09-01 07.06.09.jpg     2015-09-01 07.10.04.jpg

 

Here's a view under.

2015-09-01 07.10.34.jpg


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#112 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 07:41 AM

I went back out and set the seat and toolbox on so you would get a better idea!

2015-09-01 07.30.35.jpg

 

I grabbed a 1X2 and lined it with the inside edge of the back tire to see how it works with the fronts. Just a smidgen wider!

2015-09-01 07.31.22.jpg     2015-09-01 07.31.58.jpg

 

 


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#113 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 01:39 PM

I like the look with the extra air. Also, allows you for more tire options.
IMHO, go for it.
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#114 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 01:45 PM

BTW, looks pretty good, huh Mikey?
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#115 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 01:57 PM

Thanks, Alan! My "abomination" is coming out pretty good so far!

 

I got the fender mounts made up! Now to decide if I want to weld the mounts or bolt them on! They will be attached to the light grey box over the rear end! May just tack them for now and finish that up when I tear down for paint.

2015-09-01 12.45.05.jpg     2015-09-01 12.45.26.jpg

2015-09-01 12.45.35.jpg     2015-09-01 13.36.50.jpg



#116 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 02:26 PM

I like the look with the extra air. Also, allows you for more tire options.
IMHO, go for it.

ditto that

 

 

 Bolt on gives you more options. what are those rear fenders from? They have a nice curve.


Edited by TomLGT195, September 01, 2015 - 02:27 PM.

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#117 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 03:21 PM

Yes, bolt on looks great! Much easier if you want to make changes.
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#118 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 05:12 PM

I like the extra height. Bolt on; much easier to move out of the way for paint, maintenance, etc.   :thumbs:


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#119 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 06:08 PM

ditto that

 

 

 Bolt on gives you more options. what are those rear fenders from? They have a nice curve.

They are 70's Sears fenders. Kinda like Alan's Loader tractor or larrybl's 'Old Girl'.

 

Fenders are a bolt on and complete.

 

2015-09-01 16.22.06.jpg     2015-09-01 16.22.36.jpg

 

The fenders are rounded and the foot boards are flat, so I opted for a space between them.

2015-09-01 16.22.49.jpg

 

Now the fun starts! I need to fit 4 hoses and a valve into this space!

2015-09-01 17.52.28.jpg

 

The only hose available locally has 1/4" (or 3/8") IP ends. I have most of the fittings to go that route, just need 2 more straight ones for the valve. If I go JIC, I have to go to Tulsa for fittings and hose.


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#120 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2015 - 10:03 PM

Kenny, where the fenders and footrests come together, Sears always had a gap, but had a partial mirror cut to the footrests.
If you look at Old Girl, you'll see what I mean.

 

http://api.viglink.c...329-photos.html


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