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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 02:32 PM

This thread continues from my other one. I now have the AC 716 and am ready to continue on. I will need lots of help so PLEASE comment! I have the 716 apart and looking at making the marriage to the Eaton/Peerless rear end!

2015-08-01 11.20.43.jpg     2015-08-01 11.57.23.jpg

2015-08-01 11.57.38.jpg     2015-08-01 12.04.02.jpg

2015-08-01 12.04.11.jpg     2015-08-01 13.33.17.jpg

2015-08-01 13.37.56.jpg

 

My biggest concern now is the drive line is going to be long! And I will probably need a u-joint. Where should I put it? Near the engine or near the transaxle? Also, where to find it!


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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 02:40 PM

What about a ujoint from a Bolens attachment? Good Luck, Rick

 

Why wouldn't a Simplicity flexjoint work?


Edited by boyscout862, August 01, 2015 - 02:41 PM.

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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 03:35 PM

What about a ujoint from a Bolens attachment? Good Luck, Rick

 

Why wouldn't a Simplicity flexjoint work?

Whats a flexjoint?


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#4 Diesel1050 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 04:03 PM

The little white disk.....similar to a rag joint! Napa has a "Flexible Steering Joint" for 9 bucks that works good!
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#5 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 04:23 PM

The little white disk.....similar to a rag joint! Napa has a "Flexible Steering Joint" for 9 bucks that works good!

The little white disk didnt last long for me. I did not have it aligned as well as a thought I did.


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#6 Diesel1050 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 04:23 PM

It should last forever! Were the holes round? It should just bolt on...
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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 04:45 PM

I guess I should clarify more! How do you get the engine crankshaft aligned properly to the rear end?


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#8 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 05:00 PM

I guess I should clarify more! How do you get the engine crankshaft aligned properly to the rear end?

The flexplates are on each end of the driveshaft. See page 10 in here :http://gardentractor...ers-parts-list/

 

You should be able to adapt each end to the driveshaft you have with the existing flexplates and then adjust the length of the driveshaft with a welder. Good Luck, Rick


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 05:25 PM

The flexplates are on each end of the driveshaft. See page 10 in here :http://gardentractor...ers-parts-list/

 

You should be able to adapt each end to the driveshaft you have with the existing flexplates and then adjust the length of the driveshaft with a welder. Good Luck, Rick

I have a 416 drive shaft, but it will be too short. Plus the Ford rear end used a 3 bolt rubber flex joint that the Fan is on so I don't want to loose the Fan. I don't have an adapter that will work. Plus, the adapters will not fit through the 2" hole the BGB bolted to!


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#10 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:09 PM

Why not cut the front half of the Simplicity driveshaft and the back half of the Ford driveshaft, and marry the two together??
Maybe add a flange bearing in the hole the BGB came through if you think you need a U joint to mate the shafts??
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#11 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 07:07 PM

It should last forever! Were the holes round? It should just bolt on...

 

I had too much of an angle on the shaft. The top of the whit disk was touching the crankshaft plate and the bottom was out from the plate about 1/2 inch. It lasted a while but it finally gave up. This was on my Rub Goldberg drive system on the snapper 1650 that i put a lombardini on. It now has a stub shaft and belts instead of the RG chain drive I had. Runs much better and there is no noisy chain.

 

Pics of the "device" be found about halfway down this page.

http://gardentractor...a-diesel/page-2


Edited by coldone, August 01, 2015 - 07:15 PM.

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#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 07:13 PM

Kenny, the input shaft of the hydro...does it have a keyed shaft or spline shaft?  If it's keyed, then you can get universal joints to fit it.  Universal joints make it a snap as things don't have to be in direct alignment between engine & hydro.  Also, MTD 990's mostly used universal joint drive shafts to Eaton, so you could get one of them & simply extend it's length.  As far as a fan, you can do without one if you add an oil cooler to the lift return line.  A cooler does way way more to cool than that fan could ever dream of doing.


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 10:32 PM

Kenny, the input shaft of the hydro...does it have a keyed shaft or spline shaft?  If it's keyed, then you can get universal joints to fit it.  Universal joints make it a snap as things don't have to be in direct alignment between engine & hydro.  Also, MTD 990's mostly used universal joint drive shafts to Eaton, so you could get one of them & simply extend it's length.  As far as a fan, you can do without one if you add an oil cooler to the lift return line.  A cooler does way way more to cool than that fan could ever dream of doing.

The shaft is keyed, Daniel! Finding that MTD shaft might be rather hard around here. I'll see if I can find it in a parts list so I'll know what to ask for. I may grab the Ford tiller drive shaft to see if it will fit through that hole where the BGB was hooked up.


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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2015 - 04:39 AM

The flexplates are on each end of the driveshaft. See page 10 in here :http://gardentractor...ers-parts-list/

 

You should be able to adapt each end to the driveshaft you have with the existing flexplates and then adjust the length of the driveshaft with a welder. Good Luck, Rick

 

 

I have a 416 drive shaft, but it will be too short. Plus the Ford rear end used a 3 bolt rubber flex joint that the Fan is on so I don't want to loose the Fan. I don't have an adapter that will work. Plus, the adapters will not fit through the 2" hole the BGB bolted to!

I may give this a shot. I'll see about getting the engine in and take the Ford drive shaft adapter off and put the Allis one on if I can get the Eaton close enough to the hole so the shaft sticks through there! Worth the try!


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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2015 - 11:42 AM

Well, I looked into using the Allis drive shaft and that is a no go! First the adapter off the AC BGB is for a 7/8" shaft and the Eaton is 3/4". Plus the Eaton shaft is only 1.5" long and I have a 1/2" plate to go through. Tight fit right there. And the hole in that plate is only 2" in diameter! The Ford tiller u-joint will nit go through it.

2015-08-02 11.05.17.jpg

 

Here's the adapter from the BGB.

2015-08-02 11.05.54.jpg

 

And the front of the Eaton.

2015-08-02 11.06.09.jpg

 

I got the Magnum 18 out to see what I had there to work with. If you folks think it will work, I can bolt the AC drive shaft solid and cut off what I don't need to get to an MTD drive shaft. It is 3/4" OD, may have to drill through for a bolt to hold it on.

2015-08-02 11.07.49.jpg     2015-08-02 11.26.04.jpg


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