Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

New to the forum, R608P Starting Issues

starting carburation

  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 gmanracer OFFLINE  

gmanracer
  • Member
  • Member No: 73756
  • 2 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: North Central Texas

Posted August 01, 2015 - 12:19 PM

Hi All, brand new to the forum and hopefully will not make a fool of myself or waste anyone time.

Have a MTD R608P - Tractor Supply Brand 25hp / 54.00" riding tractor.

Recently while mowing motor died.

Did all of the normal checks

-have spark (at the plugs)

-fuel pump wworking (pumps strong when ignition is on)

-Cranks strong and "sounds like" it trying to fire, but will not.

Disassembled the carb, cleaned - did not see anything abnormal

Same problem exists

 

I see where folks are mentioning the soleniod that plugs into the float bowl. Is there a way to by-pass this to determine if this might be my problem?

 

Any suggestions, questions or theories are welcome.

 

Gman racer in Texas


  • MH81 said thank you

#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 9,745 Thanks
  • 7,517 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted August 01, 2015 - 01:48 PM

Welcome to GTT. Check our Manuals Section(3 free downloads per day) for the engine manual. It should have a troubleshooting section to test the shut off solenoid. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, August 01, 2015 - 01:48 PM.


#3 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,697 Thanks
  • 8,555 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted August 01, 2015 - 04:40 PM

Welcome to GTt.  If your carburetor had a fuel shutoff you would have seen it when you pulled the carburetor for cleaning.  It normally screws into the float bowl.  What happens if you shoot starter fluid down the throat of the carburetor?  Also it would be helpful if you could tell us what engine you are working on.



#4 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,210 Thanks
  • 28,584 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted August 02, 2015 - 07:23 AM

This really sounds a newer Briggs I had that would run for a while, then quit.
Like you, I had good fuel and spark... But didnt have correct compression.
Turns out, the engine would heat up, valve guide swelled, and cause the valve to not to move (close) correctly.
Only way to check compression is with a tester.

BTW, I was able to get about another 10 minutes + by running 93 octane gas mixed for my chainsaw (50 to one).

Supposed fix according to my mechanic is to remove valve and hone the guide.
I know another guy who had fractional drill bits and hand ran the next size up thru, but I would imagine he may have used a little oil afterwards.

#5 gmanracer OFFLINE  

gmanracer
  • Member
  • Member No: 73756
  • 2 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: North Central Texas

Posted August 03, 2015 - 04:15 PM

Thank you for the quick replies. I will take a look at the manuals tonight and provide the engine data.

Did try the started fluid trick...absolutely nothing. That led to my initial thought that there was something blocking fuel from reaching the carb.

Speaking of, one more bit of information...the plugs are basically dry when I pull them (not soaked as you might think when cranking away).

Unfortunately, you valve theory sounds plausable....Mowing in the 100 degre heat, you see a noticable loss in performance after it really heats up. I suspect everything is getting sloppy.

 

I work on racebikes for fun....never thought I be diving in this deep on my lawn tractor..........


  • MH81 said thank you

#6 gmanracer OFFLINE  

gmanracer
  • Member
  • Member No: 73756
  • 2 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: North Central Texas

Posted August 05, 2015 - 04:28 PM

The engine model is series 440000

446777



#7 gmanracer OFFLINE  

gmanracer
  • Member
  • Member No: 73756
  • 2 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: North Central Texas

Posted August 09, 2015 - 08:19 PM

Finally back in town and was able to test compression.

Left - 150+psi

Right - 50psi

As Boyscout862 suggested, I'm going to find the manual online.

Sounds like I might have a stuck valve.

Would anyone happen to know what compression should be?






Top