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New to me 1455 with Johnson loader


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#31 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 12:07 PM

I have been running the tractor a little here and there, but not a whole lot to even make it worth mentioning however, my little starting gremlin keeps rising it's head up.

I think I have it narrowed down to the "extra kill switch". I have jiggled wires, cleaned contacts, tested connections, metered coils, and my spark would intermittently disappear (only on startup). The last time this happened, I dissconected that other switch, and she had spark, so at this point I think the switch has a short in it.

I just finished up the transmission repair this morning, so now I'll get more time to actually run this old girl, and test out the faulty switch.

Either way if this switch bad, or not I think I'm going to eliminate that, and put in an automotive style relay off the key to run a ground back to the mag for ignition kill duties, so stay tuned for that!!

In the meantime I'm going to go play in the yard since the olady is gone, and drink some suds before it gets toooo hot today, so stay cool, stay tuned, and keep checking back for updates. Cheers:)

#32 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2015 - 04:02 PM

Today I was going to move some river rock, and the ol no spark gremlin once again came along, so after cussing up a storm I decided I have had ENOUGH!!

Before today it was real intermittent, so testing was a difficult task, but today it was only ticking off a random spark here or there, so, that allowed me to check everything out AGAIN. The last time this happened I thought the kill switch was shorting, but turns out it wasn't. With not having any spark present I then metered the stator, and I had juice there, so my kill switch was obviously good as the kill switch interrupts the stator before the module.

With my issue narrowed down to the module I decided to go the easiest route, and tossed in a GM module. Super cheap, and easy to replace if it decides to go south too.

The power for the module/coil now comes from the headlight circuit. This allows me to shut the tractor off with the key switch, but the start circuit does not allow the headlights to run, so no juice when cranking. Ha, easy fix, I ran a wire from the start relay up to the headlight circuit with a diode in line, so juice from the relay will feed the coil until the key is returned to the run position. The diode is to prevet current from back feeding the starter in the run position.

The bare connectors will be plasti coated in a day or 2, I went this route because it's what I had.

Connections are as follows;

C = coil ground
B = coil+ and 12v
W = blue wire
G = white wire
Black wire is not used


The first 2 pics are testing it out with jumper wires to see if it even worked before wiring it all up.. Life is good!!! Cheers.

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Edited by stiemmy, August 22, 2015 - 08:00 PM.

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#33 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2015 - 04:21 PM

Just got done driving it around, and I gotta say, up until today, she hasn't started so easily as it does now!!!

I love it!!!

Edited by stiemmy, August 22, 2015 - 04:22 PM.

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#34 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2015 - 06:47 PM

The other day my neighbor asked me to remove some old landscaping mulch, and rocks. I gladly helped out with the use of the old Bolens. Unfortunately I didn't get pictures as I was in the seat for almost 4 hours, but I am totally amazed at the amount of work I got out of it in that short time. I did notice she was quite loud even with ear plugs in, so a little more muffler work was completed to calm the tone, and I must say it is alot mellower now.

I measured the original pancake muffler diameter, and headed for the salvage yard. 1 hour later, 10 bucks, and a little fuel, and I was ready to get going!!

Here is what I did. The muffler started out @ about 36" long with about 12" of pipe on one side. (sorry no before pictures) I measured between the tire for a rough length I needed, and started cutting. Once I had my muffler end cut off, I cut some pipe in half, and welded it over the outlet to act as another baffle. Finally, I angle cut a short piece of the left over pipe for a tip that points away from the tire, hydro lines, and away from me. It works very well, I'm surprised, it's a big difference from before. If you stand beside this thing now, you can feel the exhaust pulses on your pants to about 15' away!!!!

PS, the tractor is still running like a champ, can't beat old iron. Cheers

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#35 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 10:46 AM

Today I was going to move some river rock, and the ol no spark gremlin once again came along, so after cussing up a storm I decided I have had ENOUGH!!

Before today it was real intermittent, so testing was a difficult task, but today it was only ticking off a random spark here or there, so, that allowed me to check everything out AGAIN. The last time this happened I thought the kill switch was shorting, but turns out it wasn't. With not having any spark present I then metered the stator, and I had juice there, so my kill switch was obviously good as the kill switch interrupts the stator before the module.

With my issue narrowed down to the module I decided to go the easiest route, and tossed in a GM module. Super cheap, and easy to replace if it decides to go south too.

The power for the module/coil now comes from the headlight circuit. This allows me to shut the tractor off with the key switch, but the start circuit does not allow the headlights to run, so no juice when cranking. Ha, easy fix, I ran a wire from the start relay up to the headlight circuit with a diode in line, so juice from the relay will feed the coil until the key is returned to the run position. The diode is to prevet current from back feeding the starter in the run position.

The bare connectors will be plasti coated in a day or 2, I went this route because it's what I had.

Connections are as follows;

C = coil ground
B = coil+ and 12v
W = blue wire
G = white wire
Black wire is not used


The first 2 pics are testing it out with jumper wires to see if it even worked before wiring it all up.. Life is good!!! Cheers.

 

Stiemmy,,,   Thank you for the write-up on the GM module  I paid a fortune for the  sst ignition modual years ago.. It still works fine,, But  your'e module is readily available anywhere.. wasn't a where that it would work..

 

                       Thanks,,,   Another,, cold wisconsinite                       sodi 


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#36 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 01:31 PM

I hope you beat that gremlin. Intermittent problems can be a bugger to get a handle on.


Edited by Cvans, September 19, 2015 - 01:38 PM.

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#37 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 05:16 PM

Stiemmy,,, Thank you for the write-up on the GM module I paid a fortune for the sst ignition modual years ago.. It still works fine,, But your'e module is readily available anywhere.. wasn't a where that it would work..

Thanks,,, Another,, cold wisconsinite sodi

Thank you!!!
I have left out a few vital bits of info, and forgot to edit my post in the allowed amount of time here on the forum, but since you ask, I'll post it now!!

The module I used was for a mid 70's GM 350 non computer controlled. Autozone part# DR100, $19.99 plus uncle Sam's share.

I also wired up, (2) I believe they were 5 amp zener diodes in parallel on the main leg. One in 1 direction, and the 2nd in the other direction. This only allows the front end of the module to see 5v or so AC no matter what rpm the engine is turning. This keeps from overloading the front end of the module. I also ran a resistor across both legs just before the module, but after the diodes to bleed off residual voltage.

A little late on the info, but I'm glad you asked!!!

Since Radio Shack (scrap shack) has departed this lovely non repairing, throwaway, cell phone world. I had no choice, but to go to a TV repair shop for the little parts, so I wouldn't have to wait!! Lol

If you have any questions, or comments, by all means ask away, and I'd be glad to help out. Here are a couple more pics of adding the diodes, resistor, and the finished product. The shrink tube can be had at any hardware store. Also, need to add a little piece of aluminum behind the module for a heatsink. The white paste you see a little in the pic is heat transfer paste, it MUST be used, but, it comes with the module.

In the first pic you can see the diodes hanging out of the end of the blue spade connector. Everything was crimped, and soldered once testing was done.

Over 4 hours run time, and shes still goin....:)

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Edited by stiemmy, September 19, 2015 - 05:31 PM.

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#38 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 05:27 PM

I hope you beat that gremlin. Intermittent problems can be a bugger to get a handle on.

4+ hours, and still ticking.... :)

Oh, forgot to mention, it rained harder than all getout half way through the landscaping removal job, and she NEVER skipped a beat!

Edited by stiemmy, September 19, 2015 - 05:58 PM.


#39 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 05:32 PM

I suppose, if anyone wants, I could draw up a schematic, and post it!!??
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#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 05:47 PM

I suppose, if anyone wants, I could draw up a schematic, and post it!!??

That would be good for those wanting to use this option!



#41 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2015 - 06:18 PM

That would be good for those wanting to use this option!


Correction, should have written 3 legs from poles, not stator.

Not a problem..., BUT, I never claimed to be an artist!!! Lol
At least with a wrench I have a fighting chance, drawing, ha, not so much hahaha :)

Please keep in mind the "C" is the coil ground, and is what triggers the coil to spark.

Also, if you hook the W & G up backwards you will get NO spark. I did it intentionally to see if was polarity sensitive. If you do by accident, no biggie, just reverse the leads. This won't hurt the module.

I have tried both coils on the module, and it ran with either one. Timing did not seem to change for me, but your results may vary. Starting cold, hot, rain, or shine, haven't had any problems.

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Edited by stiemmy, September 19, 2015 - 07:06 PM.

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#42 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2015 - 07:16 PM

Update;

I just put on 8 more hours on the old girl clearing brush, hauling wood, and some gravel. I haven't had any issues with ignition. She starts and runs like a champ. Shouldn't be too much longer, and ill have snow pics to share!

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Edited by stiemmy, October 09, 2015 - 07:18 PM.

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#43 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2015 - 08:56 PM

Hey stiemmy there is no rush for any snow pictures. :(   How about next July? 


Edited by Cvans, October 09, 2015 - 08:56 PM.

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#44 Austen OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2015 - 09:54 PM

You're going to have a lot of fun using it in the snow. :thumbs:


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#45 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2015 - 11:03 AM

Hey stiemmy there is no rush for any snow pictures. :(   How about next July?


Right on!!!!




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