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Small GT Loader - Who will build me one?


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#1 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 07:27 PM

Stumbled upon this cool little Cub Cadet loader setup on Cub Cadet forum and want a similar one made up for my Cub Cadet 102, with a small bucket, lift maybe 300 pounds about 40" high (think loading a standard garden cart). I have no information, there was no details on the site, only pictures.
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Edited by wvbuzzmaster, July 28, 2015 - 07:32 PM.

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#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 08:09 PM

Didn't you get one for the Farmall Cub?

Edited by Alc, July 28, 2015 - 08:26 PM.


#3 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 08:24 PM

Farmall 140 and that is not very nimble.
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#4 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 08:36 PM

There is a loader plan PDF in the manuals section, I think.


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#5 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 08:57 PM

I have two roughly 4 foot long sections of 2" x 2" x 1/4" box tubing I can use as arms. I have a 7 GPM power steering pump rated at 1500 PSI relief that I can use as well. The issue next is I reviewed some of the loader plans and found that TD&H had one using 2" x 2" x 3/16" for the arms, but since I want o build this low profile deal I will probably be lifting mid arm, as opposed to at the bend. I could probably make my uprights out of 2.5" x 2.5" x 1/4" box tubing, as I have a couple of short sections (under 2 foot) leftover from a salvage project... I'm sure with plates welded to the sides and some bushings (or just washers and see what happens) it would work fine.

#6 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 09:43 PM

Does it come with a bucket?

The way it is, it is just a fancy/ expensive way to lift a non-adjustable snow plow. 

It wouldnt take much modification to do a power "Johnny Bucket"/ trip loader

 

The arms on that one look like 1x2x.25. That with a few gussets added, should lift 500#

I have not priced any steel lately and my memory isnt so good, but I think you can pick up a 20' new stick of that for around $50

 

**edit** my weight guesser needs to be calibrated. Tubing weight calculator shows around 84#. Price should be $80-$120


Edited by tater195, July 28, 2015 - 09:57 PM.


#7 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2015 - 10:08 PM

If you have the metal and the pictures. Just start building it, build the mounts on the tractor first and just go from there. If that loaded in the pictures had a longer cylinders, it could lift a lot higher. I built a loader with no plans, I just bought the metal and went at it. It turned out quite well with no issues.

Good luck


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#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2015 - 05:27 AM

 

Farmall 140 and that is not very nimble.          

Ok now I know what you mean . But myself , having used the PK w/fel for years if I was to spend the time and $$$ I would go the extra effort and build one ( probably cheap to buy one and modify it to fit yours )  like  Alan ( MH81) got this past spring with the self leveling bars and it also has a lot of bucket travel as far as dumping when it's raised . On mine I was loading mulch in a pick-up through the open tailgate  other day , even at the low height it hardly drop out without shaking the control lever to bonce the loader



#9 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 05:59 PM

My thoughts so far.
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#10 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:29 PM

So the pics above are of your tractor & pump on hand?


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#11 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:31 PM

So the pics above are of your tractor & pump on hand?

So the pics above are of your tractor & pump on hand?

Yea, the pics are of my 102 with the steel and pump I have on hand so far.

And I see my post was hacked with graffiti... Lol
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#12 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:38 PM

The steel you have should be more than strong enough.  I would add a brace from the tower down to the front of the frame to make sure all stays where it should be.  I don't know the output of that pump, but it too should be way more than up to the task.  If it pumps too much volume (too fast cylinder action), you can always pulley it to turn slower.


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#13 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:42 PM

By the way, who wants to play with sketch up or CAD to see if my geometry works for anything?
Cylinders of 10" stroke are retracted length between 17-19" pin to pin. I have no lift cylinders yet, but thinking either 1.5" or 2" bore.

#14 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:45 PM

I don't have CAD or know how to use the program if I had it.  I simply mocked things up, then held things in place, then put in measurements to see if it would work when I built mine.


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#15 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 06:46 PM

The steel you have should be more than strong enough.  I would add a brace from the tower down to the front of the frame to make sure all stays where it should be.  I don't know the output of that pump, but it too should be way more than up to the task.  If it pumps too much volume (too fast cylinder action), you can always pulley it to turn slower.


Absolutely will have a brace forward on each side. The pump is a Vickers Vane power steering pump. Has a relief setting of 1500 PSI and 7.5 GPM output. Additionally, my hydraulic reservoir will go under the hood where the battery sits. I plan to pack a big reservoir there. Battery will go behind the seat. In one of the pictures you can see a 2 spool outrigger valve Alc gave me a few years ago.




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