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Wheel Horse RJ-58 Restoration


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#46 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2016 - 06:48 PM

Glad I don't have one of those!


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#47 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2016 - 07:12 PM

Dug the motor out today and started removing the tin work so I could open it up and take a look inside. I removed the head first, and was quite surprised to find no major carbon build up. Even the piston and valves are fairly clean. If this motor is original and has never been rebuilt, it couldn't have possibly been used very hard. No markings on the piston, so it has to be standard bore yet. 

 

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After being satisfied with the top end of the block, I figured I'll drain the oil and pull the oil pan off so that I could see what the bottom end looked like. Other than the ugly primer on the inside of the block, everything looks good and tight. Not sure now how I want to approach this motor. Should I rebuild it or not? It has good compression, and since everything looks to be in pretty good shape, I may just take my chances on this one and hope for the best. 

 

IMG_20160731_171154235_HDR.jpg IMG_20160731_171203129_HDR.jpg


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#48 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 07:05 AM

I think I'd just put it back together and run it. Be sure to check that governor gear, though.


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#49 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 07:52 AM

That's not primer in the block, if I had a guess it is glyptol. Used to paint the oil side of allot of things, allows the oil to slide back down into the pan faster, helps to keep oil from soaking into and seeping out of the block and keeps the oil cooler to boot.
I have a very old Toro engine and the pan was split from water freezing, I tried to weld it but just wound up with 100s of hairline cracks. I ground and smoothed the weld then painted it with glyptol inside and out and it has never leaked even with marvel mystery oil in there for the last 2 years.
Pete
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#50 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 03:46 PM

Gotta say I would button it back up. If it were a worker it would be a different story but I'm pretty sure you aren't planning on plowing a field with it. Those old K90, K91 engines are as tough as nails.  :thumbs: 


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#51 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 04:19 PM

Yea, that's what I think I'll do. I guess if it ain't broke, why fix it, right? 

 

Thanks for the input guys!  :thumbs:



#52 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 04:34 PM

If she dosent smoke and has good compression I say leave it alone , the only thing maybe is check valve clearances and lap them while its apart but would leave the rest alone.


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#53 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 07:47 PM

Tonight I got the seat pan completely stripped and first coated with primer:

 

IMG_20160803_191951418.jpg IMG_20160803_192004556_HDR.jpg

 

 

 

I also got the NOS Recoil out of its box, cleaned up, and first coated with finish:

 

IMG_20160803_193130824.jpg IMG_20160803_200326414_HDR.jpg


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#54 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2016 - 06:33 PM

Not a whole lot of time lately due to my current work schedule, however since posting last time, I did manage to get a couple more pieces stripped, primed, and first or second coated with finish.

 

Seat Pan:

IMG_20160809_184926843.jpg IMG_20160822_192523650.jpg

 

Tool Box:

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Frame:

IMG_20160812_195021364.jpg IMG_20160812_195045759.jpg

IMG_20160812_195100485_HDR.jpg

 

Belt Guard:

IMG_20160822_192747924.jpg

 

Heat Shield: 

IMG_20160822_192833699.jpg

 

Transmission Shift Lever:

IMG_20160822_192937496.jpg


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#55 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 09:47 PM

Today I was able to get some more painting done. The last coats were applied to the transmission housing and side plates:

DSCN5959.JPG DSCN5960.JPG

 

 

I also got the second or third coats applied to the seat spring, rear cooling tin, and main blower housing:

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I decided to start assembling the differential, however before doing so, I needed to replace the main bushings. I carefully cut the old bushings out using a hacksaw blade, and then prying up a corner and sliding them out. Once the new bushings were installed, I needed to cut off a 1/4" so I used the Dremel and a cutoff wheel:

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After the new bushings were install and completed, I needed to drill a 1/4" hole in the end of each axle shaft, as I decided to flip the axle end for end, since the old bushings wore the shafts pretty good. The key ways were already there, so the holes were the only things needed:

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With the axle shafts drilled and done, it was then time to start assembling the differential. Once the differential was assembled, I lubed it real good with petroleum jelly as a way of keeping the rust to a minimum until I'm ready to assemble the complete transmission:

DSCN5973.JPG DSCN5974.JPG

 

I also got all of the transmission bolts and plugs stripped and first coated with aluminum. I was going to just go with new stainless steel hardware, however I have parts that will be attached to this transmission that are painted silver, and I don't think the silver and stainless steel will look good together. If I find that I don't like the aluminum painted hardware, I can always go back later and repaint them all red to match the transmission:

DSCN5975.JPG

 

I also made a trip to the local hardware store where I buy my paint, and ordered the two cases of acrylic lacquer clear coat. It should be here by Tuesday, so I'm excited to get these parts coated and done. Can't wait to see what the results will be like when I'm done. With the way these parts are shinning now, I can't imagine how well they will shine once the clear coat is on. 

 

 


Edited by johndeereelfman, September 10, 2016 - 09:50 PM.

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#56 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 07:12 PM

Got a little more accomplished today, although it doesn't appear to be that much. Most of my day was spent cleaning nuts and bolts.

 

I was able to get another coat of finish on the frame:

IMG_20160911_140340319_HDR.jpg IMG_20160911_140401338.jpg

 

 

I got a first coat of finish on the oil bath breather:

IMG_20160903_183244081_HDR.jpg IMG_20160903_183250618.jpg

 

 

And after soaking in 100% apple cider vinegar for the past two weeks, I decided to see how well the nuts and bolts would clean up. I must say, I'm very impressed with this method, as all of the rust is gone. All I had to do was go over each piece with a wire brush. Here are some before and after pictures:

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IMG_20160903_202327269.jpg


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#57 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 08:20 PM

Slowly getting there Troy. Are you still working the long weeks?
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#58 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 07:17 AM

Looking good, Troy! The vinegar does a good job.


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#59 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 08:18 PM

Slowly getting there Troy. Are you still working the long weeks?

 

Unfortunately yes Eric. But then again, I guess I should say Fortunately as this job is better than the one I left Spring of last year!  :thumbs:


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#60 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 08:20 PM

Looking good, Troy! The vinegar does a good job.

 

Thanks Kenny. I am very impressed with the vinegar, have you ever tried it out? Was just curious to see if anybody else had as good of results. 






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