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Bolens 1050 Seat Cover Project


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#46 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 08:00 PM

Next came comparing the kneeling pads with the foam and marking them on where they had to be cut.  I squeezed the original pad as hard as I could to see how much it compressed and then I did the same with the kneeling pad - in my opinion the kneeling pad was a little bit harder to compress but then it is a lot newer than the original material which may have softened with age.  It was definitely much stiffer than the green foam I have been using.  The pad was just barely wide enough to make the bottom pad and has a handle hole that I filled with a piece of cut off foam - I will have to look for some larger pieces of foam of the same material and see if I can find them at a better price and about 1/4" thicker when I get time.      

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Foam Kneeling Pad.jpg
  • 2 Foam Kneeling Pad.jpg
  • 3 Electric Knife.jpg
  • 4 Original Foam Squeezed.jpg
  • 5 New Foam Squeezed.jpg
  • 6 Thickness Of New Foam.jpg
  • 7 Marks For Slits On Bottom Side.jpg
  • 8 Marked On Top SIde For Back And Sides To Be Cut.jpg

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#47 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 08:05 PM

Then I started cutting and doing some test fits -  here are the results.  I was really impressed with how the knife could cut the foam so quickly and smoothly and also how, when I laid it almost flat with the back of the foam, the way it cut the slits to a certain depth (about half an inch).   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Two Back Corners Cut.jpg
  • 2 Test Fit At Rear.jpg
  • 3 Slit Cut On Underside.jpg
  • 4 Slit Cut On Underside.jpg
  • 5 Test Fit WIth Underside Slitted.jpg
  • 6 Handle Hole Filled WIth Piece Of Foam.jpg
  • 7 SIde Cut With Knife.jpg
  • 8 Bottom Piece Cut To Shape.jpg
  • 9 Bottom Piece Set In Place.jpg
  • 10 Left SIde.jpg
  • 11 Right Side View.jpg
  • 12 Slit Opens With A Bit Of Pressure.jpg

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#48 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 08:07 PM

After I did the bottom piece I used the same technique on the back piece.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bottom Foam On Pan.jpg
  • 2 Back Rough Cut To SIze And Test FIt.jpg
  • 3 Left Side Back View.jpg
  • 4 Back Top And SIdes Ready To Be Marked For Final Cut.jpg
  • 5 Back Test Fit After Final Cut.jpg
  • 6 Back Test Fit After Final Cut.jpg
  • 7 Back Test Fit After Final Cut.jpg
  • 8 Back Test Fit After Final Cut.jpg

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#49 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 08:12 PM

And then I put the seat back on and cut grass for about two hours.  I felt around the seat cover while I was riding along and the cover did not appear to have any strain being put on it as the new pad did not compress very much and was still very comfortable to sit on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Seat Cover Bottom.jpg
  • 2 Seat Cover On.jpg
  • 3 Seat Back On Tractor.jpg
  • 4 Seat Back On Tractor.jpg
  • 5 Seat After Two Hours Use.jpg

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#50 Paulgo ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2015 - 08:36 PM

Glad to hear the electric knife works! You should be able to save quite a bit by buying closed cell foam from an upholstery shop or fabric store. Paul


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#51 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2015 - 09:06 AM

To go along with the seat cover project we also need someone to start reproducing the steel seat pan :)
I was having a look last night and noticed that the only good seat pan that I have is for the 850 and it is not the same as the 1050.
Both my 1050 pans have the back broken off!
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#52 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2015 - 06:22 PM

Check out www.foamforyou.com. They have a product they call Multi/rebonded Mixed Foam. It looks much like the Bolens OEM foam in structure. And it is described as very firm.


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#53 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2015 - 07:13 PM

To go along with the seat cover project we also need someone to start reproducing the steel seat pan :)
I was having a look last night and noticed that the only good seat pan that I have is for the 850 and it is not the same as the 1050.
Both my 1050 pans have the back broken off!

 

Are they broken from being rusted out or because they broke at the bend?  Should be able to weld them / reinforce them at the bend with some 1/8" x 3/4" angle iron tacked on for support unless they are rusted out.  I would not think it would be that hard to make the pan if you had the correct thickness of steel and a heavy sheet metal brake - you could always slit the steel where it is to be bent and then weld it back up once it is bent as this would make it easier to bend in a metal brake.  I will have to remember to  mark down some measurements and take some good pictures of the seat pan next time I am working on it.


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#54 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2015 - 07:34 PM

Check out www.foamforyou.com. They have a product they call Multi/rebonded Mixed Foam. It looks much like the Bolens OEM foam in structure. And it is described as very firm.

 

Thanks Doug - I see they do custom sizes and cutting - wonder if they would do up some 1-1/4" thick cut to size and how much they would charge? Like a paint job the surface preparation affects how good the paint job looks - and putting a new cover over 50 year old foam that has seen a lot of use and abuse is like putting a base clear paint job on a surface that was sanded with 100 grit sandpaper - don't matter how good the paint is the job will still look like crap - just my thoughts.   I found some in Canada as well   http://www.outdoorfa...oam_p_3297.html  but it is only 1" thick, a bit more money and they only ship via UPS - will keep looking. 


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#55 4500GUY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2015 - 09:51 PM

Thanks for the information on verifying the foam on my other seat pan is the original and also for the knowledge that the covers were installed at the dealer level as well as how the cord was secured - was this the recommended practise from the factory to put the cord around the studs or did your shop come up with that idea?  I believe the cover I made differs from the original at the rear as I have found a few pictures of the seats with what appears to be the original covers and there appears to be a longer piece underneath - got some accurate measurements on the pleats and the join locations from a member on another site that helped me to get the cover this close.  I would like to find an old cover that is complete enough to make accurate patterns from -have a couple of feelers out and will wait to see what turns up.  I am used to seat covers on automobiles being snug fits along the sides and bottom but I am reaching the conclusion that the drawstring was not designed to be pulled tight but rather just gently pulled on and then secured allowing the cover to be held in place but the lower pieces not drawn in tightly against the sides of the seat pan.  Her are a few pictures I have of what I believe are original covers. 

29 Chev,

 

I have an original seat on my uncle's 1050.  If you need any pictures or measurements, just let me know!

 

Thanks for posting all this great stuff!

 

- Dave



#56 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2015 - 06:40 AM

Are they broken from being rusted out or because they broke at the bend?  Should be able to weld them / reinforce them at the bend with some 1/8" x 3/4" angle iron tacked on for support unless they are rusted out.  I would not think it would be that hard to make the pan if you had the correct thickness of steel and a heavy sheet metal brake - you could always slit the steel where it is to be bent and then weld it back up once it is bent as this would make it easier to bend in a metal brake.  I will have to remember to  mark down some measurements and take some good pictures of the seat pan next time I am working on it.

I guess they could be fixable, they are broken at the bend due to rusting. Will have to send one to a shop and see if they can't put it back together. Like you said though - they should be relatively easy to reproduce by a machine shop or someone with the tools/skills.



#57 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2015 - 06:53 PM

Whatever you do please do not discard them - if you don't think they can be fixed let me know and I may purchase them from you and repair them.  If this project takes off it would be nice to be able to offer a complete seat assembly as an option.  I know I had to do some hunting to find an original pan for my one 1050 - they are not all that plentiful in Ontario.


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#58 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2015 - 06:58 PM

Had a bit of time today so I thought I would post a couple pictures of a 1050 seat pan with some measurements - this may help someone who is trying to identify a 1050 seat pan or repair a 1050 seat pan that is rusted or broke.  I will try and get more measurements as time permits. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Seat Pan Angles.jpg
  • Seat Pan Mount Dimensions.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, August 15, 2015 - 07:01 PM.

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#59 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2015 - 02:16 PM

Here are some more measurements of the seat pan.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Seat Pan Front With Sizes 3.jpg
  • Seat Pan Front With Sizes 2.jpg

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#60 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2015 - 05:01 PM

I have been trying to think of a way to accurately show the size and curves of the outer edge on the side and top of the 1050 seat pan and I think I have come up with a way - PLEASE NOTE THIS INFORMATION IS OFFERED "AS IS - USE AT YOUR OWN RISK".  Attached are three pdf's of actual size tracings of the seat pan from the bend to the outer edge of the left side (done in two drawings as it is longer than eleven inches) and back.  They are done on 1/4" graph paper and can be printed off on 8-1/2" x 11" paper and cut out to use as patterns and can be flipped over ( mirror image ) to make the right side.  Due to scanner distortion and printer shrinkage / expansion they probably will not print to the exact size but they should be close enough that they can be adjusted to get a fairly accurate duplication - I have marked sizes at certain locations that can be verified to see which way they are off.  Hopefully this will help someone with a damaged or missing 1050 seat pan.

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, September 01, 2015 - 03:51 PM.

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