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Handiman R/T Help needed


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#1 Illini89 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 11:59 AM

I bought a Handiman R/T several years ago.  I am now getting ready to restore it and was hoping to get some info on here.  I have always called this a David Bradley.  Is there a difference between a David Bradley Handiman R/T and a Sears Handiman R/T?  It has a serial # of 917.5155.  It also has a number below that on the tag that reads 2319.  What year would this be?  The engine has a tag on it 500.308503.  The tag has "Sears & Roebuck".  It does have a "Handiman" decal on the front of the gas tank.  I have some photos that I will post once I figure out how to do it.  Any help will be greatly appreciated.  I have several more questions but don't want to overload this right away.

 

Thanks.



#2 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 01:26 PM

The Handiman series was Sears' first venture into the garden tractor world. They were before David Bradley. They only made the Handiman RT about 3 yrs. It was made out of the big walk behind. I think the 5155 was the last year but not sure. Does it use V belts or flat belt?


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 02:23 PM

Welcome to GTT. Check our Manuals Section(3 free downloads per day) for info. Good Luck, Rick

#4 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 03:40 PM

:welcometogttalk: :camera:



#5 Illini89 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 05:02 PM

Thanks for the responses.  It has a flat belt.

 

I went to the manual section and I am not finding manuals for a Handiman R/T.  Any help?



#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 06:00 PM

Utah Smitty had a manual, don't know if he scanned it or not.
You might send him a PM?

http://gardentractor...57-utah-smitty/
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#7 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 06:56 PM

the 1933 model was the only one to use the name Bradley, and was called the Bradley Handiman in the catalog, after that all of them were know as Sears Handiman, or Sear Handiman Jr, depending on your model.

 The RT's were only built in 39, 40 and ,41. The last yr was supposed to use the ZZ engine and a pair of V belts instead of the flat one.

 

And Finally, Welcome to the site and its good to see another Handiman collector.


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#8 Illini89 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 07:33 PM

Is there any way to determine which year mine is based on the model # that I have listed?  Also, can you tell me which engine mine has in it based on the engine tag.  Currently I can not get any spark and a mechanic thinks it has a bad coil.  Can those be found?



#9 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2015 - 08:07 PM

5155 is a 1940 model, it should have a Z briggs engine. There were supposed to be later 40's ones with a ZZ briggs. Easy way to tell the difference is the Z has an enclosed head, and the ZZ has the fins exposed on the top of the head. Usually its dirty points that cause these not to fire, not very often is the coil bad. Not sure if you can still get a coil for one of those in the new form, but if it is the coil, I'd try ebay or one the vendors here in this site.


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#10 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 12:40 PM

 Easy way to tell the difference is the Z has an enclosed head, and the ZZ has the fins exposed on the top of the head.

They made zz engines with the cast shroud and I don't remember the head fins being open. I didn't think they went to that until the tin shroud engines. I always thought the difference was the Z had a 3/4 pipe intake and the ZZ had 1 inch.  

 

The coils interchange with several engines. The A, B, K, and several others use the same coil.



#11 classic ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 07:53 PM

The ZZ had the enclosed find head with the cast blower housing,and also had the open find head with the tin head cover and tin blower housing. The venturi size in the carburetor is smaller on the Z engine than it is on the ZZ engine. The Briggs carburetor for the Z is part number 89914. The Briggs part number for the ZZ is 89920.

#12 Illini89 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2015 - 09:24 PM

I was able to remove the flywheel today. Here is what it looks like under the
flywheel.

We turned over the engine and could not see that the points were opening.
Anybody have any idea what to check? How hard is it to change the points and
condenser? Is there anyway to check to make sure the coil is OK?

Thanks for all of your help.Phone Transfers 072615 004.jpg
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