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63 sears suburban 725 clutch operation


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#1 digdog OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 07:26 PM

Let me first say I am new to this site. I am in the process of getting my buddies sears 725 running and driving. I finally got the engine to run and it sounds great. The next problem is the clutch system was locked up. I have taken apart the clutch system completely and cleaned it. The only thing not removed is the clutch thrust collar which appears to be kind of pressed on the shaft. So here are my questions: 1) what size should the gap be between the pulley and the clutch material surface? 2) I have reassembled the clutch system. When I move the yoke back and forth the clutch pressure ring moves allot but the inner pulley does not move at all. I have taken it back apart. Upon a closer examination this is what I see. Both the thrust collar and the thrust washer have a groove worn in them, I measured the balls (11 of them) .240 for a .250 size bearing, next and this is what I am not sure about. What should the corner of the inside diameter of the clutch pressure ring look like.? Mine is worn. I think this should be a sharp corner. I do believe this corner pinches the balls against the thrust washer which pushes down on the inner pulley which pushes against the outer pulley which engages the clutch material. I think because of this wear on these pieces the pulley won't be engaged because the balls are not being pinched to help the forward movement of the pulley. 3) I can replace the balls with non worn ones, I can flip over the thrust washer so it has a fresh non grooved surface, that leaves I need a better replacement clutch pressure ring and thrust collar. Are these pieces hard to find? I could really use help and direction on what could be wrong and or who might have parts. Hopefully I have given enough info about my problem. Thanks for listening, Dig Dog    


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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 07:28 PM

Hello Welcome to GTT :wave:

 

lots of knowledgeable guys here who should be able to help you out, pictures would be a big help as well so we can see what we are dealing with.


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#3 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 07:52 PM

Rick who wrote this is also a member here, maybe this will help you some. 

 

http://www.mytractor...-db-clutch.html

 

 

This one may help also 

 

http://www.mytractor...-rebuild-5.html


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#4 digdog OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 08:21 PM

Let me first say I am new to this site. I am in the process of getting my buddies sears 725 running and driving. I finally got the engine to run and it sounds great. The next problem is the clutch system was locked up. I have taken apart the clutch system completely and cleaned it. The only thing not removed is the clutch thrust collar which appears to be kind of pressed on the shaft. So here are my questions: 1) what size should the gap be between the pulley and the clutch material surface? 2) I have reassembled the clutch system. When I move the yoke back and forth the clutch pressure ring moves allot but the inner pulley does not move at all. I have taken it back apart. Upon a closer examination this is what I see. Both the thrust collar and the thrust washer have a groove worn in them, I measured the balls (11 of them) .240 for a .250 size bearing, next and this is what I am not sure about. What should the corner of the inside diameter of the clutch pressure ring look like.? Mine is worn. I think this should be a sharp corner. I do believe this corner pinches the balls against the thrust washer which pushes down on the inner pulley which pushes against the outer pulley which engages the clutch material. I think because of this wear on these pieces the pulley won't be engaged because the balls are not being pinched to help the forward movement of the pulley. 3) I can replace the balls with non worn ones, I can flip over the thrust washer so it has a fresh non grooved surface, that leaves I need a better replacement clutch pressure ring and thrust collar. Are these pieces hard to find? I could really use help and direction on what could be wrong and or who might have parts. Hopefully I have given enough info about my problem. Thanks for listening, Dig Dog    

I get some really good pictures tomorrow


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 10:48 PM

:welcome: to GTtalk,
Lauber1 and a couple others have an understanding of these. Hope oe of them logs in tonight.
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#6 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 11:50 PM

Welcome to GTT. Check our Manuals Section(3 free downloads per day). Good Luck, Rick


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#7 jabelman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2015 - 04:56 AM

Are you trying this when it's running. They really don't move much not running. Also you have to make sure you have the right engine spacers and belt sizes for everything to mesh. It's a good idea to do your testing with the back wheels off the ground. I am no expert but I rebuilt a 60 suburban. Mine was froze too but it luckily freed up after alot of soaking and time got it apart to clean it up.
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#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2015 - 05:23 AM

I had save some info on the DBs walkbehinds  , I'm thinking the ball lock clutch works the same the way you described it . This page helped me understand it better . It doesn't mention it on theses pages but for the hand operated clutch it's supposed to be hard to engage with the engine off and " snap in " while running . I had a problem with mine that it wouldn't snap in and the clutch would release by it's self until I got it adjusted correctly

Attached Thumbnails

  • ball lock clutch.gif
  • ball lock clutch1.gif

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#9 digdog OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2015 - 06:54 AM

those two pictures say alot. I will change out the balls for new one and flip the thrust washer to the side that has no wear. I have also all new belts (correct sizes from the parts list). I'll put everything back together and adjust the reverse cable and hope it engages. I will keep you guys posted, Dig Dog


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#10 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2015 - 07:08 AM

:welcometogttalk: :camera: :camera: :camera:


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