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#46 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 05:31 PM

Thanks guys. It's vinyl siding and I have been trying to do a good job on the install. That front wall with the windows faces almost due south which means it will get a lot of wind and rain. I got that wall finished this morning but had some grief with the top piece. Had to do it in 3 pieces after trying to get one piece with cutouts over both windows into place and almost tearing all the j moulding off trying to make the 4 inch wide piece fit. Finally realized it wasn't physically possible to make it fit, got it off there, set it aside and came back later when the weather and I had both cooled off and finished it in 2 pieces. 

  I've got to do a ramp to the door. Anyone have any suggestions on how to attach it to the building. I could use a header and joist hangers, cutting the joists at an angle to fit the hangers like you would for a rafter at the top plate and let the bottom rest on the ground or perhaps on some deck blocks. I would be worried about movement from frost at the lower end of the ramp causing stress on the top where it joined the building. The ramp will be about 6 ft. wide but only a few feet long. Door is 5ft 4"wide. Thought of using some pivoting dock brackets but they would cost me 100$ for 2. I'm looking for suggestions. I don't want to just pile the fill up against the building and use that as a ramp. 


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#47 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 06:21 PM

Not knowing your frost issues causes lack of help here! I was thinking about a home made pivot system at the building to help with that!



#48 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 06:23 PM

Is a GT the heaviest that will use the ramp? Would a set of heavy hinges work. Like one for each joist.
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#49 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2015 - 06:49 AM

Is a GT the heaviest that will use the ramp? Would a set of heavy hinges work. Like one for each joist.

I agree ,  three hinges across the top should allow it to float with the frost conditions . Set it on blocks at the bottom  


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#50 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2015 - 10:47 AM

Thanks guys. I had thought of the hinge idea but hadn't investigated further. 



#51 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2015 - 06:21 AM

You could use something like door hinges or similar. You can find weld hinges and drill your own holes.


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#52 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2015 - 04:20 PM

OK I guess another update is long overdue! Got the outside finished now, garage door installed, eves troughs and spouts on etc. Working inside now. Got the electrical rough in done, strapping on the ceiling, underground power feed from the garage installed and I'll soon be doing insulation/vapour barrier and drywall. 

   That used garage door gave me fits! The guy gave me this huge sporing. I remarked on the size when he gave it to me and he said just wind it 7 and 1/2 turns. I did that and when I released the door it flew up and nearly launched itself. When I got the cables unsnarled and tried to put it down it took nearly all my weight on it to get it down. I got another spring from him, a normal sized one this time, much easier to wind and it works fine. I did make a mistake in the height of the opening and also mounted the rails higher than I should have. That resulted in me having very little headroom over the opened door, so lights will have to be low profile. I may have to go with a fluorescent fixture in that end. 

 

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I used shingles to provide a slope on the threshold. Eve guard for flashing

 

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Blueskin  flashing around the opening, wood trim and Al. jam facing

 

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Outside of door is dark brown. Couldn't find the pics I took. 

 

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Evestroughs and siding all done!

 

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Electrical rough in.

 

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Power from garage Via buried conduit.

 

 


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#53 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2015 - 05:32 PM

Garage doors can be such a pain! Is the 'monster' spring in pic #6? Don't need much with such a small door!


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#54 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2015 - 05:34 PM

Coming along nicely.  From the picture it is hard to tell how much clearance you will have between the ceiling and the garage door.  Maybe a embedded light there?


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#55 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2015 - 06:32 PM

Looks good, I think I would have still used a roll up door on it. Just my preference, I have not had an issue with mine.

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#56 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 10:38 AM

Looks good, I think I would have still used a roll up door on it. Just my preference, I have not had an issue with mine.

 I need the insulation in the panel door. It's made from 2" thick insulated panels cut down from a commercial door. Maybe R12 or so. If I was doing it again I would build my own insulated outswinging doors and be done with it. This garage door cost me a lot of time. Live and learn I guess.

 

Garage doors can be such a pain! Is the 'monster' spring in pic #6? Don't need much with such a small door!

 The original spring was like 40" long and bigger in diameter than a standard door spring. It was also made of thicker wire. I think it may have been one of the springs used on the commercial door that the panels were cut from. That thing was hard to wind. After putting 7+ turns on it, holding the tension all the time, you have to tighten the set screws. All that standing on a step ladder working over your head. Of course, just as I was about to tighten the set screws, my wife comes out and tells me someone wants me on the phone! Needless to say they had to wait. It's the physically hardest and most dangerous part of the install. If one of the 1/2" rods used to turn the spring slips out of your hand it's not going to be good. There is a lot of energy stored in that wound spring. Because of the 2" thick panels and the big heavy gauge end caps used, this door is likely as heavy as many 9ft. wide standard doors. The new spring is a standard one for a 9ft door and it works fine. You cannot adjust a spring that is too strong by reducing the number of turns on it. You need 7 turns or so to rotate the pulleys enough times to raise the door 7 ft. So the door has to match the pulley size and door weight/ height. One good thing is that I learned a lot about garage door installation.


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#57 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 10:41 AM

Coming along nicely.  From the picture it is hard to tell how much clearance you will have between the ceiling and the garage door.  Maybe a embedded light there?

Bill, if I go with strapping and drywall on the ceiling I would only have about 2-1/4 inches. I've decided to just put 1/2" particle board on the ceiling over the door and that way I gain 3/4" and have 3", which will be enough for a fluorescent fixture. Mistakes made due to lack of experience come back to haunt me later in the build!


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#58 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 01:44 PM

Looking good. I like the exhaust fan you mounted , keep some of the fumes out without opening a door or window in the winter. 


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#59 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 01:51 PM

Looking great and should be cheap to heat. I have to build a system to pull out exhaust fumes.
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#60 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 10:18 AM

Looking good. I like the exhaust fan you mounted , keep some of the fumes out without opening a door or window in the winter. 

I decided to include an exhaust fan because sometime this winter I will likely be refinishing the kitchen cabinet doors. I can do it out in the shed instead of in the basement where the fumes from oil based varathane are hard to eliminate and end up getting upstairs. It will also come in handy for any painting on tractors etc. It's a 110cfm bathroom fan that I grabbed when it was on sale. I vented it right out into the soffit to a special hood for that purpose. This "shed" has ended up costing like twice what I planned and has sucked up all my spare time since June.


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