The battery keeps going dead overnight on my 416. The PO did not have the regulator hooked up when I got it and the battery never went dead but did get hot. I hooked it up after I painted it to save the paint from a hot battery. It worked fine for a month or so but now pulls the battery down unless I unplug the regulator. Have any of you used the aftermarket regulators? Is there something else I could be missing?
AC 416 battery discharge
Started by
OldAllis52
, Jul 19, 2015 04:13 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
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OldAllis52
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Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:13 PM
#2
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KennyP
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FORDoholic
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Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:29 PM
I haven't had that issue before! Not sure what to say!
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boyscout862
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Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:29 PM
In our Manuals Section has a good guide to troubleshooting, cleaning and adjusting the regulator. There are sets of points in those regulators that need to be polished and gapped. Good Luck, Rick
Try this http://gardentractor...-system-checks/ or the engine manual.
Edited by boyscout862, July 19, 2015 - 04:35 PM.
#4
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KennyP
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FORDoholic
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Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:45 PM
In our Manuals Section has a good guide to troubleshooting, cleaning and adjusting the regulator. There are sets of points in those regulators that need to be polished and gapped. Good Luck, Rick
Try this http://gardentractor...-system-checks/ or the engine manual.
The 416 doesn't have that style of regulator. No starter/generator!
- boyscout862 said thank you
#5
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olcowhand
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:50 PM
Sounds like simply a bad regulator/rectifier. Diodes prevent backflow of current when unit is shut off, so diodes are shot, plus the regulator part is likely charging full blast when running, causing the hot battery. I've never bought a new regulator, as I usually have one used off salvaged units. I also used to put in low bids on several on ebay & snagged some cheap but good regulators that way.
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larrybl
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Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:56 PM
Disconnect the negative battery terminal and put a 12V test lamp from the battery negative to the negative terminal.
Battery negative terminal <--Test light--> battery negative lead.
Anh amp meter (with multiple settings) will work in this configuration if the current draw isn't enough to light the lamp.
Once the current draw is observed, start disconnecting things (re-connect if no change is seen) till it goes away. That will be the culprit.
I bet the regulator will be it.
Edited by larrybl, July 19, 2015 - 04:57 PM.
- boyscout862 said thank you
#7
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crittersf1
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Posted July 20, 2015 - 08:19 AM
I second a BAD regulator.
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OldAllis52
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Posted July 20, 2015 - 12:39 PM
All testing points to the regulator plus after having the regultor unhooked for three days the battery us still hot.
