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Sears rectifier


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#46 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:41 PM

That solenoid will need to be mounted to metal frame for ground, location looks fine, as long as there are clear runs for the heavy red wires. As for the test lamp, a regular tester will work. But I use this.  Just alligator clip between test points.

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#47 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:42 PM

So this goes to the ground wire to battery then to ground on key or what?

#48 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:50 PM

I dug this up for you... https://www.youtube....h?v=9A5LuzlpyZ4

 

The light connect like this (Battery Negative)  (Test Light) (Negative Terminal) "in series" If there is a short light will be lit. No Short No light.


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#49 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 09:03 PM

This is only to test to make sure there are no shorts. Remove it after testing.

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#50 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 09:41 PM

Well I was going to run solenoid since everyone recommended them.
Guess the wiring would be
Starter--->solenoid post
Other solenoid post-->hot post on battery
The small post on terminal-->to S terminal on switch
Regulator (rectifier) 12v wire--> inline fuse--> to L terminal om switch
Hot wire from battery-->light switch-->hot wire from hot side of light switch to L terminal on switch?


Last line is wrong? Shouldn't it be "Hot wire from battery-->b terminal on switch-->L terminal on switch to hot post on light switch" ?
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#51 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 10:01 PM

I would get the tractor "started" "running" and "charging the battery" first. Lights, accessories, and cigarette lighter plugs can come later. 

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#52 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2015 - 07:04 AM

Last line is wrong? Shouldn't it be "Hot wire from battery-->b terminal on switch-->L terminal on switch to hot post on light switch" ?

 

 

I was thiking the same thing, Hot from battery goes to the B terminal on the switch, that juices the switch for what it needs, no need to jump that battery line to anything else.


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#53 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2015 - 07:06 AM

Wanna see a wiring mess? I really have to redo this in the future.

20150717_191139.jpg
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#54 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 06:53 AM

I think i might mount my solenoid behind dash as you see in photo.

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#55 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 08:01 AM

That is where mine is located on the Roper 20T.

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#56 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 08:03 AM

You will need to make sure the metal mounting tabs are grounded to the frame. This can be accomplished by running a separate ground wire if needed.



#57 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 08:24 AM

Thanks. This is to the frame. Was pure metal.


Ok back to the solenoid wiring.

So I need to have the battery hooked to solenoid then run a hot wire from battery to switch OR from battery terminal on solenoid to the key switch?

#58 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 08:42 AM

Ok larrybl diagram shows his switch running to battery but the other one doesn't.

Should I follow the first?

#59 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 09:00 AM

Ok larrybl diagram shows his switch running to battery but the other one doesn't.

Should I follow the first?

Disregard my hand drawn diagrams, they were only for illustration only.



#60 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2015 - 09:08 AM

Now that you have a solenoid, follow this diagram. You can ignore the lift motor, and some of the switch terminals may be labled different such as the (A) terminal could also be (L) for lights.

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