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Sears rectifier


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#31 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2015 - 12:36 PM

Isn't the a L for the lights?

What's the best way to hook the lights up?

#32 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2015 - 01:25 PM

Isn't the a L for the lights?

What's the best way to hook the lights up?

All my stuff runs off the L terminal, just kind how I got it, have not changed it, and it works. 

If I ever re-wire, I will run a wire off the L into a light switch and then into a realy so they would not pull much juice through switch.  The L just keeps things from being able to be used while ignition is turned off. You could wire lights straight off battery, but then if you ever left them on, they would drain battery.



#33 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 06:26 PM

Where did yall mount your solenoid?

#34 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 06:37 PM

On the 1978 Roper it is mounted under the steering housing. Requires engine removal to get to it.

On the 1988 Craftsman II it is conveniently located next to the battery.

 

OOps, Question wasn't for me, sorry.

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Edited by larrybl, July 19, 2015 - 06:38 PM.


#35 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 06:50 PM

Ok..can I mount it next to the rectifier?

#36 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 07:50 PM

For the solenoid the closer to the battery or Starter the better. It requires heavy duty wires from the battery to the solenoid then to the starter.



#37 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 07:57 PM

The dash on these things aren't metal are they? Look like it but then it doesnt

#38 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:08 PM

Some pictures of what you have would help a little.



#39 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:10 PM

This good enough?

#40 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:13 PM

This good enough?

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#41 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:18 PM

That is a fiberglass dash, looks to be a Sears model.

Either a OEM ignition switch to handle the starter current, or a complete re-wire with Solenoid, fuses, and new key switch.

I guess it depends on your level of expertise with LGT wiring configurations. 

They are not difficult, but miss-steps can fry wires, fuses, regulators, switches, and cause some fire situations.



#42 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:23 PM

Well I was going to run solenoid since everyone recommended them.

Guess the wiring would be

Starter--->solenoid post
Other solenoid post-->hot post on battery

The small post on terminal-->to S terminal on switch

Regulator (rectifier) 12v wire--> inline fuse--> to L terminal om switch

Hot wire from battery-->light switch-->hot wire from hot side of light switch to L terminal on switch?

#43 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:30 PM

That sounds like it should work. One suggestion, I use a small 3A power supply in lieu of the battery to test my re wiring projects. For yours, before the final test, add a 12V lamp between the battery negative post and the negative battery terminal just as a final check for shorts. 

 

Battery Negative terminal --> Test lamp --> negative terminal connector.



#44 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:30 PM

I really have no where to battery to mount solenoid.

Here's where I think i could mount it. What do you think?

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#45 Firefighter912 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2015 - 08:31 PM

That sounds like it should work. One suggestion, I use a small 3A power supply in lieu of the battery to test my re wiring projects. For yours, before the final test, add a 12V lamp between the battery negative post and the negative battery terminal just as a final check for shorts. 
 
Battery Negative terminal --> Test lamp --> negative terminal connector.



Test lamp? The one that lights up when you touch something hot?




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