Posted July 16, 2015 - 09:36 PM
So this means the rectifier doesn't run through the switch..right? Just straight to the battery?
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:17 PM
Can put it on the Battery cable terminal of the selenoid if it has one? Seems like many go to the selinoid, just not sure which side on the big batt terms. Seems like it would need to be the one direct from battery?
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:18 PM
That is the way I see it. but if you are re-wiring might I suggest adding a 20A inline fuse to protect the regulator and stator.
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:20 PM
I'll add a fuse to it tomorrow then.
Now it's trying to get the carburetor set up. I took off work tomorrow..hoping to get it running so I can mow with it finally.
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:31 PM
Oh boy. Magneto pulls ~2 amps, Starter pulls ~ 100 amps. Let us know how long the key switch lasts.
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:33 PM
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:48 PM
You know my Speedex some models have the big batt cables run right thru the key switch. I've had many have smoke let out and not work anymore or least get hot and Iffy on working. Last one I did, put in regular switch and selonoid system and is much better. Think all tractors should have one. Saving a few bucks when building new doesn't work on this set-up.
Posted July 16, 2015 - 10:51 PM
Do I need a two post solenoid then?
Posted July 17, 2015 - 06:46 AM
You need a big term for batt in, a second for out to starter, and a small term for trigger. Base grounded.
If you end up with a 4th term that does nothing, that's OK too.
NOW, I will say this. Not all switches are created equal. If you have one of these systems and put in an off the shelf switch, you will get what Grumpy explained... If you get the switch with the right contacts and the big screw terminals, it will be fine.
My SS12 has a replacement OEM style switch and it is just like you're describing. No issues, works fine.
They eventually HAD to go to solenoid a as they used bendix starters and bigger engines.
I almost wired in a solenoid, but the last one worked for 40 years and I won't care 40 years from now.
The right switch is available for around 20 (check with our site sponsors) and will look like this
Posted July 17, 2015 - 07:22 AM
Be very carfeul with what witch you get. If you have the SSI ignition which is likely since it's a 71, adding 12V to the kill wire and Poof! New module needed.
If you are in there, I would recommend adding a solenoid to the system, just a better system for starting and assurance IMO. I personally would also run the charge wire through the ignition terminal on the switch and add in line fuse also.
Edited by TAHOE, July 17, 2015 - 07:24 AM.
Posted July 17, 2015 - 08:56 AM
Posted July 17, 2015 - 10:11 AM
You need a switch that has a "R" terminal for Regulator. This is shown in diagram "N" in the PDF.
Posted July 17, 2015 - 11:05 AM
Posted July 17, 2015 - 11:17 AM
So, ok...run the rectifier wire with 20 amp fuse to the battery?
Posted July 17, 2015 - 11:30 AM
Must be the days for regulators, I'm helping some kid through FB do the same thing.
Here's how I have mine wired.....
Look at your regulator/rectifier, it should have stamped markings AC, B+ and AC, middle one should be B+. That wire should go through a fuse, I run a 20 amp, but yours is probably the 10 amp stator so I would run a 10 or 15 on yours, then connect to the L spade on the switch. I have a wire on the B on switch running to one side of Ohm meter, then other side goes down to the solenoid and connects to battery cable on solenoid that comes from the battery. The S spade on switch goes down to the small post on the solenoid. The M is kill wire for module.
You could probably run charge wire to the B terminal on the switch, but I have mine setup so it can only run charge voltage while ignition is in run position. Not sure if needed or even possible, but it prevents any discharge of battery through the stator while sitting.
Bet you have this switch.....
Edited by TAHOE, July 17, 2015 - 11:31 AM.