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Need grader box instructions! Such a thing?


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2015 - 11:41 AM

U know made grader box. U know didn't touch down in back, needed longer top link for both PK's to use. Now, made top link, more level. One tractor even has good down pressure.  BUT, the metal PK barely lifts it off ground, becomes problem moving around area and turning in rough areas, my yard rolls a bit.  Not sure if should be grading with lock position or float? Seems float makes more sense. I can get good start, but then did in and loose traction. Locked needed more in looser piles I make and try to spread.  The metal PK is harder to run hydraulics easily with lever under seat, think I need to make extension for that.  Didn't like the metal PK use. I also went down to gravel in road again, and didn't do good, just kinda left a layer on surface. Went back to house and hooked up the Snapper King. Lifts higher, better. Downpressure on this one. Back out to drive and tried float, did better, more traction with this tractor. Still had moments of spin, so tried locked and did good and can move up/down better with that hydraulic control and still run tractor speed with lever on fender at same time. 3rd arm would be help, but we got it.  I can go along and just when seems it is going to dig in, lift tiny bit, and keeps going. Had to learn how much to lift, otherwise just loose load build-up in box.  Thinking need more weight for both tractors, maybe some in front even. The metal PK does slight wheelies with box up, the Snapper "feels" like it wants to, but doesn't really.  I was thinking of trying my Speedex with the new weight box out front, but it is buried in garage now, so didn't. Next nice day, might try it.  I also made little furrows down the grass sides of drive into the  lawn below (on a hill) to have water maybe go that way, instead of down drive with gravel. We just got a big douse of rain this AM. Was trying to watch with binocs and looked like they might have worked! Will need to walk down and see. Next biggest issue is whether the gravel is all going same way!  We need to knock the grass down on that side of drive OR, build up drive with more gravel, (which I believe is best) to let water go over side like that. Might have to make cement runners on that side also to keep from clogging up?  Can't afford paving that I know. Neighbor and I share this drive and problems. We are looking into solutions that we can do for now.



#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2015 - 02:15 PM

I have limited experience. I use down pressure only when taking down a large high spot. I find float may take more passes but also ends up smoother. The best trick is to do the final passes as back blading. It gives a smoother and denser surface. Good Luck, Rick


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2015 - 07:26 PM

Learning to make one of these work is an experience! Takes a bit to make it work like you want.


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#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2015 - 10:17 PM

Got the Speedex out again and tried some weights in front holder and it did fair, not as easy as others. Seems the hydraulic control is real touchy between float and lift. Was trying to lift at times and NO GO, then realized was pulling too far on lever and back in float again. Hmmmm! Real short basic lever on this one too. I see many times owner's put on longer levers. Now, thinking that maybe it is to be be less quick on the movement of lever and can "Play" it easier?  Longer Would make it longer throw and think that would work. Am I correct, or FOS?  I see one of my other Speedex, same model, had t he lever moved farther forward on fender and long link and was probly easier to reach when driving?  All kinds of ideas.....which ones work?  Going Crazy thinking on stuff! :wallbanging:



#5 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2015 - 05:10 PM

When its in the locked position (down pressure), the box blade will take weight off of the rear wheels making you have less traction.



#6 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2015 - 09:58 PM

I do not have a box blade, but do a lot of blading with my ford 1500. A quarter mile lane gives you lots of practice.
I always run my blade in float! If you do not ,The blade is on the end of a long lever(being the tractor frame and wheelbase.
When the front wheels go up over a bump and causing the blade to dig deeper.
Then the rear wheels go over that same bump and lift the blade off the ground.
You can see you would have a grade that looks like a waffle.
Float allows the blade to at least partially adjust to the up and down motion of the blade. Dont get discouraged it takes some practice,
I am glad I live down a dead end road, the whole county would be laughing at some of my first attempts to grade my lane.
It had been 40 yrs since I had been on a tractor with a blade. Now I have it pretty well figured out after living here for 5 yrs.

#7 Leonard VanCamp OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2015 - 05:15 PM

I used one on a Kubota that the owner replaced the top link of the three point with a hydraulic cylinder. It worked pretty well in that you could angle it back and make the blade dig in more or angle it forward to let a thin layer of dirt spread out the back. 






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