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What's Wrong With This Engine ? ?


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 06:38 PM

I have been fighting this problem for over 2 months now.  A Wisconsin 10D in a Bolens 1053.  Ran great last winter and into spring with the plow and later the tiller.  Then when I started weeding with the tiller it started acting up.  Would run OK when cold but after it got warmed up good, like 15 min of pulling, it start to pop, sputter and die down.  Had to back the throttle down to 3/4 and it still was not running like it should.  Would even die.  Let it sit for 5 seconds and it would fire right up but would not run good under a load.

 

With the deck on it is the same old thing.  Run good for 15 min and then let out a pop or two, and start sputtering and slow down.  3/4 throttle and it will stay running but not smooth like it should.  I have tried 2 different carbs, both with rebuild kits in them.  Drained the fuel line & tank and removed the in line filter.  New points and condenser as well as a new plug.  Same old story, runs ok for 15 min and then it goes to pot.  Points are staying right on .020 and timing is dead on with a timing light. Plug is gaped at .030.  After it gets hot it runs good without the deck engaged but engage the deck and it runs like crap.  I have tired everything I can think of and at this point it is in the back of the shed.  When I am in a better mood will pull the deck off and put in under a 1050 with the same engine.  Unless someone can come up with a solution the 1053 is going to become a parts tractor.

 

Open to any and all suggestions.


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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 06:50 PM

One thing I didnt see you list : (Valve Tappet clearances )


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#3 Buddy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 07:11 PM

Coil ?

Check charging system for maintaining correct voltage ?


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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 07:14 PM

NO, I have not checked that yet.  As good as it runs when cold and it fires right up I didn't think that would be an issue.  I am looking more towards a fuel problem.  If the tappet clearance was off, why would it wait till it got hot to start acting up ?   Would think if would act up right away when the load was applied ? ?



#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 07:16 PM

I have had the spark checker installed and when it acted up would lift the hood and from what I could see it was firing steady good spark.  I my change the coil from another 8 hp motor and see if that helps.



#6 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 07:16 PM

NO, I have not checked that yet.  As good as it runs when cold and it fires right up I didn't think that would be an issue.  I am looking more towards a fuel problem.  If the tappet clearance was off, why would it wait till it got hot to start acting up ?   Would think if would act up right away when the load was applied ? ?

 

When the engine's cold clearances will be enough to make it run ok, when they heat up to operating temperature the metal expands and the clearance becomes less.

Had this happen on a few of mine, another thing to check is the valve guides themselves if they are worn bad the valves will not seat causing poor running conditions


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#7 Rustysteele OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 07:55 PM

Sounds like the valve clearances might be too tight, as the engine runs and warms up, the valves heat up and expand, especially the exhaust, and if there isn`t enough clearance to make up for the expansion, the valve won`t close fully. You said the spark is good. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure that the vent in the gas cap isn`t plugged up, if it is, it would create a vacuum lock in the tank and the gas won`t flow. Let us know how you make out.


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#8 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 08:23 PM

How is the screen in the Tank? Varnished fuel will build up on the screen and plug it up.Had a problem on my 1050 and couldn't figure it out.I must of had the carb apart 6 times.Ran fine for a bit then acted like it was running out of fuel.

 

I ended up punching the screen out with a screwdriver then took a pair of long needle nosed pliers and pulled it out.It was darn near completely clogged up with varnished gas.I put one of those cheap briggs filters inline to replace the screen.It run really good after doing that.


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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 08:26 PM

One thing I didnt see you list : (Valve Tappet clearances )

Are you thinking the clearance may be to close and when it heats up the valves are not closing all the way?



#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 08:30 PM

Going to pull the fuel line off at the carb and let it run till the tank is empty.  The amount of flow will tell us if there is a problem with the filter in the tank.  Then I think I will check those tappet clearance and see how that checks out.  Either one, or both is a strong possibility.  Thanks much for all the good advise.


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#11 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 10:35 PM

One way to check if the valves are working okay.

 

with the cold motor running take along screwdriver and put the end close to the valve you want to check and put your ear on the other end of the screwdriver and listen to the tapping of the valve.  and then check the other valve.

after the motor is hot listen to the valves again to see if the tapping has changed.

If no change in the tapping of the valves than I would say that you are having wiring problems.

Old wiring can be fun to work on with rusty connection, loose or broken wires, etc..   I would start at the switch and check the connections.  Check the wiring the best you can with an ohm meter.

One wire a lot of people forget to check is the wire from the coil to the points.  I have replace a few and that helped solve the problem.


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#12 Jlaws ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 11:02 PM

I've also seen a blown head gasket act like that , run fine till engine heats up and then sputter and lose power and die after 10 to 15 minutes  . Usually accompanied by a little black smoke right before they die . A quick check for oily residue around the head bolts will tell you if its got a blown head gasket . I've also seen a sticky exhaust valve cause similar issue if there is carbon buildup on it .


Edited by Jlaws, July 09, 2015 - 11:15 PM.

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#13 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 06:00 AM

Are you thinking the clearance may be to close and when it heats up the valves are not closing all the way?

 

Yes



#14 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 07:26 AM

Has the fuel hose been replaced, and routed correctly?

 

The hose should pass through the shroud at the front of the engine, where it it is cooled by air flowing from the flywheel.

 

Many times people replace the fuel hose and run the hose out in front of the shroud.  .....When hot, vapor-lock can occur.

 

I have seen fuel hoses which were too long, looping down under the shroud, and back up to the carb.  ....This can cause a "trap" which will usually create problems under certain conditions.

 

An old fuel hose can soften and collapse, restricting flow.

 

When the engine starts to act up, will it continue to run at idle?  ....At low rpm, the fuel need is less, so restrictions in fuel flow are tolerated.  .....With a failing ignition, the engine will usually not idle, but cuts out completely.


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#15 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 04:22 PM

Sound like the same problem I had with my MF14. !4 hp Kohler K series. Figured out the exhaust valve was sticking when hot causing the engine to quit after running for 10/15 minutes. start right up and within a few minutes quit again. And before it quit you could hear the exhaust sound change, start to act up, then quit. I started running some transmission oil in the engine oil and in the fuel. Transmission oil is a good cleaner, but there are other products available that will do the same thing. change the oil a few times and it cleared up the trouble. I put in about 1/4 to 1/2 litre of transmission oil each time I changed it, and all ways add some in all my engines, but not as much as mentioned before, just for maintenance.  Noel 






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