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New to me GT19, dunno if Ive got it together right


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#1 TrukTruk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 09:31 AM

Howdy! Picked up a GT19 the recently and had to do some assembly and troubleshooting to get it running but Im head over heals for this thing even with all the problems. As for what I dont know:

 

-The plate under hood that covers the exhaust I believe I have in right, with the bolt slots towards the rear and 2 thru holes in the front but would like some clarity on that and the intended direction of the headlight brackets as the way I have the headlight wiring routed now is to short when the hood is up.

-The brakes are pretty much inoperable, pedal slightly resets itself but I believe they are locked up for when I bring the speed lever from forward/reverse straight to neutral it stops abruptly as apposed to gliding to a stop, again dont know enough about it yet to call this normal or a malfunction.

-There is what looks like a steel cable coming from under the frame and terminating in the right side wheel well, doesnt look sheared off but its definitely not hooked up to anything either. Doesn't look like the brake cable as that one is hooked up.

 

Will try to post pictures for clarity and I do hope yall could shed some insight on this badass tractor for me, detailed pictures of your true to form GT19 would also be appreciated. Thanks again!


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 09:34 AM

:wave: Welcome to the Forum! Glad to have you sign up. Pic help can be found in my signature. Folks will be along, and yes, pics do help understand!


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#3 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 09:45 AM

Welcome to GTT. Check out our Manuals Section for 3 free downloads per day. What brand is your GT? Sears and Ariens made GT19s, I think. Good Luck, Rick


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#4 TrukTruk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 10:03 AM

It is an Ariens. Hydraulic all around and front/reat PTO.

Got some pictures to see if yall see something I dont.

 

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#5 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 01:02 PM

Download this manual  http://gardentractor...nd-attachments/   It isn't listed as covering yours but it should be close. Look at page 14 item #9, that may be your broken cable. Good Luck, Rick



#6 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 03:48 PM

You are off to a great start. Welcome.



#7 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 04:56 PM

Welcome to GTtalk Truk!

On that broken cable, where is the other end? It reminds me of the cable support to the fender pan. For when you open up the fender pan to keep it from flippng back. The heat sheild over the muffler looks correct. 



#8 TrukTruk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 07:48 PM

Found out the cable is for the rear fender support, got the heat shield situated and the brakes adjusted and working great. now dealing with creeping in neutral and stalling out on slopes (yes full tank and blew out every fuel line i could find) next step is a new fuel filter and possibly tearing apart that fuel pump



#9 djordje33 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 09:15 PM

Buy the fuel pump. I replaced it first on every KT and Magnum I ever wound up with, even if it was running correct.  These things are 30 years plus old and the combination of our junky gas doesn't bode well for the longevity of the diaphragm. Start leaking fuel into the crankcase, thinning out the oil, and all bets are off. It's a $45 piece of mind which will deliver the correct fuel pressure for a long time to come. Add a little fuel stabilizer in each tank fill up and it will increase the life. 


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#10 TrukTruk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2015 - 09:21 PM

Buy the fuel pump. I replaced it first on every KT and Magnum I ever wound up with, even if it was running correct.  These things are 30 years plus old and the combination of our junky gas doesn't bode well for the longevity of the diaphragm. Start leaking fuel into the crankcase, thinning out the oil, and all bets are off. It's a $45 piece of mind which will deliver the correct fuel pressure for a long time to come. Add a little fuel stabilizer in each tank fill up and it will increase the life. 

Thanks for reafirming my initial thoughts. Gonna buy the pump do a full fluid swap. Any part numbers for the Hyd filter? or coil wires?



#11 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2015 - 02:53 AM

Buy the fuel pump. I replaced it first on every KT and Magnum I ever wound up with, even if it was running correct. These things are 30 years plus old and the combination of our junky gas doesn't bode well for the longevity of the diaphragm. Start leaking fuel into the crankcase, thinning out the oil, and all bets are off. It's a $45 piece of mind which will deliver the correct fuel pressure for a long time to come. Add a little fuel stabilizer in each tank fill up and it will increase the life.

Interesting. My Magnum 18S fuel pump is the 24 year old original and works fine. Never had any trouble with it.

Edited by artbuc, July 06, 2015 - 02:54 AM.


#12 djordje33 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 12:35 AM

All the original hoses are fine too, until they crack from age and leak all over the place. Best to get the wear components out of the way and have a fresh start, or keep running and fix one domino at a time. Every mechanical component has a life expectation and I would rather fork out $40 rather than play the waiting game until a bearing smokes out from excessive gas in the crankcase. Then I get to pull out the checkbook and fork over a grand for an engine rebuild. As the owners of these machines, we have the luxury of figuring out our own game plan. 



#13 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 03:18 AM

All the original hoses are fine too, until they crack from age and leak all over the place. Best to get the wear components out of the way and have a fresh start, or keep running and fix one domino at a time. Every mechanical component has a life expectation and I would rather fork out $40 rather than play the waiting game until a bearing smokes out from excessive gas in the crankcase. Then I get to pull out the checkbook and fork over a grand for an engine rebuild. As the owners of these machines, we have the luxury of figuring out our own game plan.


Point taken. I am a big believer in PM and keep my Gravely 18-H (Ariens GT18 with Gravely badging) in tip-top shape. Will replace fuel pump ASAP. Thanks.

#14 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 10:06 AM

All the original hoses are fine too, until they crack from age and leak all over the place. Best to get the wear components out of the way and have a fresh start, or keep running and fix one domino at a time. Every mechanical component has a life expectation and I would rather fork out $40 rather than play the waiting game until a bearing smokes out from excessive gas in the crankcase. Then I get to pull out the checkbook and fork over a grand for an engine rebuild. As the owners of these machines, we have the luxury of figuring out our own game plan.


Should I get a Kohler OEM pump or will a decent quality aftermarket, eg Stens, be ok?

#15 djordje33 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 10:17 PM

Found my Kohler oem fuel pumps on ebay for between 30 and 50 bucks. Dealers may want $80 or more. Never tried a knock off, but they might be good. Doesn't have to be an ASAP, but I'd find one on the cheap and change it at your own leisure in the near future. Over the years, these things will continue to work but will lose pressure little by little. Once they begin to leak, you can feel and smell the gas in the oil.  I used to have the "if it aint' broke, don't fix it" philosophy, but after doing that a few times and winding up with a can of worms I decided to bite the bullet with this pair of 18's and bring them to factory spec. These were $7k machines back then and if I have to dump a couple thousand into each one, another 30 years of service is worth it. I also use ethanol stabilizer additive when storing these for the winter, if not doing winter wonderland chores. 

 

Picked up a GT18 back in November which was leaking like crazy and supposedly low on compression in one cylinder. Turns out both cylinders were barely above 80 psi due to 1 screw holding the air cleaner base down and allowing nothing but dirt to get pulled into the engine for who knows how long. I thought that would be a ring job and a few new hoses, but that turned into:

Complete M18 .010 rebuild

5-port steering valve upgrade (Deere 420 column overhauled)

all new hoses

complete rewiring job front to back

fresh paint

front axle (new pivot tube, bearing carriers, bearings, spindle bushings)

rear axle (oil seals)

front pto (repotted epoxy, new bearing)

rear pto (4 new bearing)

hydro system flushed (running Deere Hygard Low Vis in Deere 317, 420, and both GT18's)

rebuilt power steering cylinder, lift cylinder, and lift valve

 

One seat and a few decals will finish the job. In the end, I'd like to think I'm the owner of a brand new Ariens GT18 now. It's clean, everything is in working order, and it will make maintenance easier.  May pick up one more of these when I have more room, but I'll brace myself when the owner says all original and runs like new.  

 

Take care.






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