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Roper 18T hydro


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#76 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 09:38 AM

Can you change the whole 90* fitting to something more common?

#77 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2016 - 03:22 PM

Alan the original steel line had a form fitting bend,pretty much a 180. With it being so tight right there,I ended up coming straight out and using a longer rubber line to make bends. I did finally get the correct fitting so finally the hydro is all buttoned up. I got the pulley on the engine so now its mostly small stuff to finish buttoning the tractor up enough to check out my hydro rebuild job. I will try to do a little more thorough update with pictures before long.


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#78 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2016 - 09:57 PM

Well this slow moving project is getting closer to being a running tractor. With the underside all buttoned up I am focused on the engine and such with the tractor back on its wheels now. I am trying to get 4 tractors finished up pretty much at the same time so It keeps progress slow. This tractor is going to stay "Rough,Rowdy and Rusty" for now. The goal for now is to have it running and usable,then maybe later give it a face lift,although I do want to get a hood and grill on it and still don't have one. I finally decided to go ahead with the K301 Kohler for now. The motor mounts are drilled and everything is clearing and fitting pretty good,including the gas tank,after some fanagling. I put a narrow pair of front wheels and tires on it for now because they hold air and a buddy done some cutting and welding to repair my drag link. I'm pretty much down to running some basic wiring,bolting everything on and adding fluid and the new filter to give it a test drive. I did change my mind on what fluid I'm going to use,so I need to run back to Big R for that. One question MH,how much clearance do you have between your hydro cooler cover and the side of your clutch brake pedal ? I have about an 1/8th of an inch and that don't seem right ?

Attached Thumbnails

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  • roper 18t 3 1 2016.jpg 9.jpg
  • roper 18t 3 1 2016.jpg 8.jpg
  • roper 18t 3 1 2016.jpg 7.jpg
  • roper 18t 3 1 2016.jpg 4.jpg

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#79 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 09:18 PM

This first time its been outside since being back together. I rolled it out to blow the crud out of the engine tin and blow the tractor off a little. I decided to go with the factory ATF type F fluid. Hope to be able to give a test run report in the next few days.

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  • roper 18t hydro 3 2 2016.jpg

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#80 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 09:30 PM

Well this slow moving project is getting closer to being a running tractor. With the underside all buttoned up I am focused on the engine and such with the tractor back on its wheels now. I am trying to get 4 tractors finished up pretty much at the same time so It keeps progress slow. This tractor is going to stay "Rough,Rowdy and Rusty" for now. The goal for now is to have it running and usable,then maybe later give it a face lift,although I do want to get a hood and grill on it and still don't have one. I finally decided to go ahead with the K301 Kohler for now. The motor mounts are drilled and everything is clearing and fitting pretty good,including the gas tank,after some fanagling. I put a narrow pair of front wheels and tires on it for now because they hold air and a buddy done some cutting and welding to repair my drag link. I'm pretty much down to running some basic wiring,bolting everything on and adding fluid and the new filter to give it a test drive. I did change my mind on what fluid I'm going to use,so I need to run back to Big R for that. One question MH,how much clearance do you have between your hydro cooler cover and the side of your clutch brake pedal ? I have about an 1/8th of an inch and that don't seem right ?

I actually had to tweak the pedal to clear. Mine was negative 1/16"
Can't go to far tho as my loader is in the way on the other side.

Glad you're making headway. Nice to know there will be another one running around.
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#81 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 11:57 PM

Jim, I finally got caught up on this and you have really done a great job on bringing it back to life. :thumbs:


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#82 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2016 - 06:36 PM

I'm frustrated !  I put the filter on and started pouring fluid in,got 4 quarts in,and started to go in the house a minute,looked back and OH NO ! So I crawled under the tractor to find the massive leak. It is leaking very bad at the differential pinion. The diagram doesn't show a seal. The closest thing it shows is a strange looking "welch" plug. Man,I hope I can replace the part without taking the rearend back out.


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#83 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2016 - 08:03 PM

I ordered the welch plug from John Deere and picked it up today. It is going to be a chore to get in. I spent about an hour and a half trying to get it in this evening. I'm hoping to not have to take hydro lines and hoses loose to get it in. If the rearend were still out it would go right in but as is I can't get on it straight so I'm going at an angle on it. Its mostly my fault,I should have seen that I needed to replace it while it was still out.

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#84 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2016 - 08:12 PM

Well now, that's an interesting place to work in.
Hope the Roper cooperates.
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#85 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2016 - 06:47 AM

Well now, that's an interesting place to work in.
Hope the Roper cooperates.

I'll second that!


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#86 mrmr56 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2016 - 12:12 PM

You might check with O'reilleys or Autozone and see if they have a freeze plug installer. The old ones used a swivel driver so you could hammer at an angle but it kept the freeze plug lined up. I haven't seen one in years but I am sure they are still around.


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#87 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2016 - 12:34 AM

You might check with O'reilleys or Autozone and see if they have a freeze plug installer. The old ones used a swivel driver so you could hammer at an angle but it kept the freeze plug lined up. I haven't seen one in years but I am sure they are still around.

Thank you for the tip mrmr,I didn't know that they existed. I did get the plug in. I started the tractor and followed the procedure to prime the pump and still nothing. After talking to a hydro guru it looks like a made a big boo boo when I reassembled the drive and pump. I put it all back together clean and dry and thats a huge no no.I should have coated and lubed everything internally. It can be damaged by running the engine and trying to prime it with everything dry inside and he tells me without everything being coated and lubed when I reassembled,it will not be able to pump and get itself primed. So The engine will most likely come back off and the tractor will most likely go to a corner for later,with spring coming I have more pressing things to get done. Its frustrating but it is what it is. Being a rookie at hydro's looks like I made a fairly big mistake.


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#88 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2016 - 05:42 AM

I coated mine, but didn't prime it or anything
Is the valve on the left hand side of the body closed?
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#89 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2016 - 12:36 PM

I coated mine, but didn't prime it or anything
Is the valve on the left hand side of the body closed?

Its been open and closed both Alan. I even filled the filter. At one point I even took the filter off and tried it,hoping that maybe that would help. I'm told because I didn't coat everything when I put it back together,it won't be sealed enough to get a prime. Hopefully I haven't hurt anything,I had the rear on a floor jack and started the engine several times trying to get the pump to prime.


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#90 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2016 - 10:21 PM

Success ! I was ready to pull the engine and put the tractor in a out of the way spot until someone gave me a tip to try. I drained the trans,pulled the engine and set it on the floor. Then stood the tractor straight up on its rear wheels,then using a Lucas transmission conditioner bottle with its small nipple,I refilled the trans thru the cool line nipples and one of the filter lines. I occasional spun the input pulley,it gained more resistance and burped air. So I buttoned it up and put the tractor back on all four. I bolted the K301 back on and jacked up the rear. Once together enough to test,I started the engine and worked the motion control lever. The trans works ! I was very happy (and somewhat amazed). Now on to lots of smaller details but I feel like today was a big victory with the old tractor. Look at the condensation on the floor. They didn't seal the floor when they built the garage and when its damp outside,its wet inside the garage. The first picture is of the tractor stood up on end and the second is back together enough to give it a test.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Roper 18T hydro 3 14 2016.jpg 2.jpg
  • Roper 18T hydro 3 14 2016.jpg 3.jpg

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