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Roper 18T hydro


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#31 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 09:31 PM

I'm beat and haven't felt much like messing with anything in the shop tonight but I did finish cleaning the gasket surfaces and got the gas tank off. Looks like I will be looking for another tank to use.


Just so you know, you can't put a Sears plastic tank on these without modifying the tractor a little.
Step one, remove the entire fender bar/light support.
Step two, turn tank 180 from the way it should go in... (It will pop in between the fenders this way) and figure out where the nipple will be.
Step three, drill new hole in frame and extend the gas line over to the new hole.
Step four, build a new tank hold down strap.

The whole problem is that they used a different seat spring and placed it in a different location due to the hydro filter location, etc. I looked into changing springs, but then the filer had to move, the hoses and holes would've been wrong, etc.
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#32 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 10:22 PM

Thanks MH,great info. I found the same thing about the seat spring and the tank doing some research a few weeks ago but had no idea that you could turn turn the other style tank around and make it work. The earlier Suburbans with the tank under the hood use a different spring from the 6 speed Onans also. I have a SS18 that I am using a incorrect tank on now. So I need one for that one too. I do have a single cylinder type tank / battery tray setup that I probably could make work if I go with a single cylinder in this tractor but I really want a twin back in it. I have a line on a metal tank out of a 73 SS16 that I hope will work on one of these two tractors.


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#33 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2015 - 08:44 PM

I didn't get newly as far as I had hoped to this weekend but then I didn't mess with it much either. I took the family fishing Saturday and didn't really start messing with the roper until this evening and only spent a few hours on it. I did clean the gasket surfaces over the last few days and it was one of the most time consuming areas so far. The gaskets had been well glued on. I went with the two original O rings because they were oval shaped instead of round surfaced and appeared to be in good condition. The O rings that I found were round and enough bigger around that I was worried about the gasket sealing because they wouldn't pull down flat enough. If they don't work I will have to replace the O rings. Today I made gaskets and bolted the hydro pump and hydraulic drive motor back together. Then I got the hydraulic drive bolted to the rearend and I did manage to get the rear back under the tractor. Hopefully I will get the hydro pump back in in the next few days and and get linkages hooked up. I am waiting on a hydraulic line before I can get all the hoses buttoned up. I still don't have an engine in mind for the tractor yet. I hope to figure out something fairly quick after its back together at least to run the trans and rear so I can cycle thru fluid a couple of times.

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#34 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2015 - 09:46 PM

Wow, for not a lot done, you sure got a lot accomplished.
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#35 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2015 - 10:20 PM

Thanks MH but it don't feel like it,lol. I guess I'm ready to have this thing way closer to running. I plan for this to be my last "big" tractor project for the year. I am ready to turn my attention to getting all the vehicles and the place ready for colder weather. I know its just now July but I need 3 months to get it all ready...


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#36 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2015 - 04:55 PM

I got the hydro pump back in today and figured out the front axle is seized tight. It is soaking now. Note to self on the pump : If I ever time the complete rearend and hydro out of this tractor again,the hydro pump goes in first. Once the rearend and hydraulic motor are in its a real pain to get the hydro pump back under the tractor. It mounts separately and runs off a belt then runs hydraulic lines back to the hydraulic motor on the rear axle. If you have ever layed under a rear wheel drive vehicle and put a automatic transmission in,that is what it reminded me of. The pump is to heavy to pick up and rush up where it goes with one hand and had to be twisted and turned to get in position ( plus I had to take other brackets and lines off to make room). So it took to jacks to get it up and position it. On a great note most of the hardest work should be done now. I am thinking next time I work under a tractor that I am going to rig up a A frame hoist and stand the tractor straight. That should make things easier. Here are a few more pictures. Edit: Thought I had more pictures from today and found them.

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Edited by rustyoldjunk, July 14, 2015 - 05:18 PM.

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#37 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2015 - 10:01 PM

I got side tracked with having to do some work to my old GMC. I'm still waiting to get my new hydraulic line. I also met a guy at the show last weekend who says he has a bunch of Onan engines that he is going to sell very cheap. Says he is keeping the carburetors and starters. I am hoping to bring home some Onan stuff and possibly a Engine to use on the Roper.


Edited by rustyoldjunk, July 22, 2015 - 10:40 AM.

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#38 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2015 - 05:18 AM

I got the hydro pump back in today and figured out the front axle is seized tight. It is soaking now. Note to self on the pump : If I ever time the complete rearend and hydro out of this tractor again,the hydro pump goes in first. Once the rearend and hydraulic motor are in its a real pain to get the hydro pump back under the tractor. It mounts separately and runs off a belt then runs hydraulic lines back to the hydraulic motor on the rear axle. If you have ever layed under a rear wheel drive vehicle and put a automatic transmission in,that is what it reminded me of. The pump is to heavy to pick up and rush up where it goes with one hand and had to be twisted and turned to get in position ( plus I had to take other brackets and lines off to make room). So it took to jacks to get it up and position it. On a great note most of the hardest work should be done now. I am thinking next time I work under a tractor that I am going to rig up a A frame hoist and stand the tractor straight. That should make things easier. Here are a few more pictures. Edit: Thought I had more pictures from today and found them.


Missed this post,
By happenstance, that's the order I had to work on it all. Just got lucky, I guess.
Do you see what I mean about belt changes being a PITA? :D
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#39 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2015 - 02:16 PM

I have been sidetracked lately but hope to get back to the tractor soon. I got a call from the people with my hydro line. They told me to make another metal one would be $220 plus. So they are now making a rubber one for me and should be in the $40 something range. I hope to have the hose in the next week or so.


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#40 JiminRI OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2015 - 08:09 PM

The gas tank for the Roper 18T looks very different than the one on my SS-16. However, since the 18T is nearly identical to the Sears SS-18 (circa 1976) I looked at that manual and compared it to the 18T manual and found that they have the same diagram with the same part numbers. I have a pdf copy of both manuals if you want them (probably from stripmine.org).

 

You might want to check other parts for compatibility with the SS-18 and even the SS-16 and early GT-18. While the SS-16 and SS-18 have the same hood part numbers, the 18T part number is different. But the Sears GT18 (circa 1978) does have the same hood part number as the 18T. I also have the GT-18 manual in pdf if you want it. And the GT-18 tank is the same as the 18T and SS-18. Maybe the 18T is even closer to the GT-18 than the SS-18.

 

Good luck with your project,

JiminRI


Edited by JiminRI, August 03, 2015 - 08:12 PM.

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#41 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2015 - 08:55 PM

With being back to driving a big truck and being side tracked with some old 4x4 pick ups I have not gotten anything new done lately but....I did get my new 45 dollar ($44.and change) hydro hose and have a engine lined up to go get. Hopefully this progress will begin again this weekend.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by rustyoldjunk, August 21, 2015 - 06:06 PM.

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#42 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2015 - 09:46 PM

dang rusty lol


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#43 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2015 - 06:07 PM

Hopefully I will have the tractor running and driving before cold weather but it will be far from done.



#44 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2015 - 06:56 AM

Hope your plans for the weekend are going well.
I was using mine al week on and off. What a workhorse.
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#45 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2015 - 04:19 PM

Sure MH go ahead and tease me. :smilewink:  I very ready to have this one runs and driving so I can take my first drive on it,check it out,and just play with it for the first time. OK so on to the first real issue I have ran into. It's been long enough since I took the hydraulic lines / hoses off that I don't remember where they go (yes,I should have taken pictures). Some are self explanatory,some not so much and the manual doesn't show what goes where. MH is there anyway you could get a couple of pictures of yours from underneath for me ? I would be grateful.I am going back out now and see how many of them that I can figure out. I also need to see if I can get the pulley off the Onan that came on this tractor because it is setup for the smaller 1/2 inch drive belt.


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