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Roper 18T hydro


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#16 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2015 - 10:54 AM

I still have to get the other end cap off the pump. The shaft still seems frozen tight. The hydraulic drive motor that is still on the rearend seems locked up too because the axle still don't roll. I'm wondering if a mix of kerosine and parts solvent would work well for soaking.


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#17 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2015 - 07:12 PM

I pulled the drive motor apart today. The pistons were froze in the barrels on it. The piston / barrel assembly is soaking. I did manage to free the hydro pump shaft with gentle persuasion and PB Blaster. The drive motor shaft was froze up too,again gentle persuasion and PB Blaster freed it up also. Once the drive motor was off the axle the axle was still seized up. The drive gear / pinion was seized. One more time with gentle persuasion and PB Blaster and the rear gears all turn. everything seems to spin free and smooth with no play. I will have to pick up more parts / carb cleaner in town to finish soaking and cleaning the parts. While I'm at it I need a couple of sheets of gasket material,maybe a couple of O rings and another small item or two so I can get everything all cleaned up,buttoned up and back together. Looks like the biggest expense will be at least one metal line will have to be replaced. I am thinking once back together and in the tractor maybe a can of Seafoam or Mystery Marvel Oil mixed in the trans fliud run it a short time and drain,repeat and drain. Then go with fresh fluid and filter. I'm wondering if it would be OK to switch over to motor oil in the system ? I know a lot of manufacturers switched to motor oil in their hydros by the 70's but I don't know if this system would be compatible. Anyway that is a ways off yet. I still have to get the trans all cleaned up and reassembled,then back in the tractor. I did finally manage to get the trans dipstick out. I had to unscrew the tube,then fill the tube with PB Blaster and work inside the tube with a long screwdriver until I got the dipstick freed. Once its all back together I still have to come up with a engine to put on the tractor so quite a was to go. Shoot I still haven't gotten the gas cap freed up so I can check the tank out....More progress of the mess pictures.  

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#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2015 - 09:04 PM

Yours had more water in it than mine did. Are all the barrels froze in? I had to take a long lunch and "persuade" several of mine out

I think you could do hydraulic oi. A good 20 at should be fine, but the manual calls for Type F and Daniel was right, it is still available.

Also, my thread has the filter number in it.

I wish you were closer, would be cool to park them sxs for a pic.
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#19 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2015 - 09:18 PM

Yes it really would be cool to have them together for pictures and the funny thing is....I have a 200 series Deere axle I could put under this one too.lol And I have thought about it...You know with the rear wheels turned out with 23 10.50 ags on them the heavier,wider swept forward front axle under it,add the other brake for turning brakes and run a valve and cylinder to make the 3 point hydraulic lift...oh well.day dreaming...(maybe lol). I agree on the water too. I don't know if this thing could have had more water in it if it had been submerged. All the barrels from the drive motor seem to be froze in tight. I have had them soaking in carb / parts solivent for several hours and they still won't bulge. I will let them soak over night and tomorrow. MH is there any way you could add a picture of the punch that you made / used to free the pistons from the barrels on yours ?



#20 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 06:27 AM

I will look for it tonight and post if I find it.
Just think long and skinny. It just fit thru the holes at the back and was about a half inch longer than the barrel. All mine that were stuck were recessed, so this worked well enough.
I hated to impact for fear of what could happen, but soaking and hoping wasn't getting it done.
Shame you couldn't find some good, old fashioned Korean War era bore cleaner... I've heard it does wonders for stuff like that.
No longer made, not Eco friendly.
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#21 Andy Asberry OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 02:44 PM

You answered the very next question that I had for you MH. Mine doesn't have a tag either that I have found. I think it was right in front of the oil filter and is gone but the rivet holes are there. I am going to try to get time to pull the rearend out tomorrow. I did take a look at the cylinders of the Onan today,they are pitted bad. I didn't get a hood or upper grill with the tractor and will have to find one for it but it will be a while before I get to that bridge.

My tag is on the left, engine side of the vertical panel in front of the battery tray


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#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 03:17 PM

Could you post a pic?
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#23 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2015 - 09:48 PM

I didn't have time to mess with it today. I did get the cap off the gas tank so I can start cleaning it out. I also checked the piston / cylinder assembly that I have soaking. It is still seized tight. I guess tomorrow I will try a different method of trying to free them up. BTW glad that you made it over here Andy ! Welcome to GTtalk.


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#24 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2015 - 08:19 PM

Turns out after checking where Andy said his tag was,mine is also located on the "firewall" part of the battery box area.

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Edited by rustyoldjunk, July 08, 2015 - 08:22 PM.

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#25 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2015 - 08:38 PM

I'm not sure why some of my pictures are coming out so small. This just started and I need to look into it. I got the hydraulic pump and drive motor as cleaned up as they are going to get this evening. I have it all ready to go back together,I just need to get some gasket material. The original gaskets were glued on and a pain to get off. Got the barrels and bullets / cylinders and pistons cleaned up and moving smoothly. I ended up having to use MH's method to free the set out of the hydraulic motor. Put the assembly in a vise and tapped them out. They came out pretty easy. I ended up using 0000 steel wool to gently clean the barrels and bullets.Cleaned the inside of each one also and made sure the ports were open in each one. I have everything as cleaned up as I'm going to and everything seems good to go. The only big issue now is the steel hydraulic hose that is rotted thru. I'm not a hydraulic guy and know little about them. I am wondering if I can a rubber hydraulic hose to replace the hard line. I don't know if it is a high pressure hose or not but I'm guessing that it is.You can see the corrosion spot on the plate and cylinder assembly out of the hydraulic motor in the pictures as I cleaned the spots. I will be glad to have this back together and under the tractor. 

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#26 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2015 - 10:52 PM

Glad you got the little boogers out.
Two of mine were tight, good news they came out.

I tried a couple of things before using the punch. I had high hopes for compressed air with a towel draped over the unit. They didnt budge, even with 120 psi

My serial is gone. Shame, thanks for giving me the right place to look.
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#27 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 06:13 PM

I picked up the gasket material and O rings. I sent the rusted hydraulic line out and it will be a week or so before I have a new one. I hope to have it all buttoned up and possibly back under the tractor in the next few days. I also hope to finish getting the gas tank off for cleaning this weekend or early in the week.


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#28 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 06:32 PM

Good luck with it all! I'm watch this as I saw my first SS16 with an Onan this weekend.


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#29 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 08:32 PM

I'm beat and haven't felt much like messing with anything in the shop tonight but I did finish cleaning the gasket surfaces and got the gas tank off. Looks like I will be looking for another tank to use.

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#30 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 08:42 PM

Good luck with it all! I'm watch this as I saw my first SS16 with an Onan this weekend.

All the Roper Suburban models are great tractors Kenny. They steer very light,turn sharp,the 3 speed high / low transmissions shift very nicely,etc. I like the cast iron Teckys better than my Kohlers. They are smoother and start faster. Then there are the models with the big 32 c.i. cast iron Briggs,some of the torqiest cast iron engines IMHO. Then there are the big Onan twin torque monster models. I think you need a Suburban or two Kenny...... :D


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