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Axle hub fixes - ideas and tricks

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#1 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  



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Posted April 02, 2011 - 07:46 AM

I thought it would be a good idea to put a post up where we can share tips or tricks for fixing loose hubs on the rear axle. As I am sure you know, the splines get loose and worn out. Besides the loose wobble wheels, this problem can be bad if the strip the last of the gears. You will loose all brakes and go for a ride! So, I am curious, what thoughts do you have to fix this? The ones on my hydro are pretty loose and I am looking for ideas.

My thought would be to buy some thin shim stock and slip some strips on the splines shafts and then tap the hubs on. I hope they would form around the splines and lock them tight. Once the hubs are on, you could just trim off the shim stock and put the clips on.

JB weld could work, but not good if you had to take it apart. Could you break the bond with heat though? If you packed the hub with a coat of JB weld, and applied oil to the spines, it may help it from sticking too bad.

Any more ideas that do not involve dropping a lot of cash on new hubs. :smilewink:

#2 tractorgarden OFFLINE  


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Posted April 02, 2011 - 08:45 AM

Not a fun job, but I have drilled and tapped the cast hubs, sideways to the axle, and put set screws in. It has worked for about 20 years.
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#3 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2011 - 09:39 AM

On my MF 1655 the splined shaft and yoke like to wear on the hydro pump.Here's what I did. On the yoke I drilled 3 evenly spaced holes around the yoke and tapped and installed set screws.Next I put a light coat of grease on the splines of the shaft.Then used one one layer of saran wrap over the splined shaft.Then a light coating of JB weld over top that.Then a coating of JB weld on the inside of the splined yoke.Slowly/carefully sliding them together.Once the yoke was in the proper place I used a dial gauge and adjusted the set screws untill I had the yoke in as close to being true as possible.I let it set up overnight 12 hrs then using a puller gently pulled it apart.I then let it cure another whole day 24 hrs.Then when I put it together it was a snug fit.The grease and saran wrap did a good job of not letting the JB weld stick to the shaft.Of course once I did put it together I did tighten the set screws down to keep the yoke from moving around on the shaft.Now I'd better mention this as well because of how the shaft is mounted to the motor mount on the other end and the motor mount being rubber mounted it makes the shaft move and the yoke move in and out on the hydro pump.So to get rid of that I cut the pivot pin off the motor mount and welded it onto a piece of angle iron that is now bolted to the tractors frame.By doing this the shaft doesn't move in and out anymore just up and down for the belt tensioner.I also had to remake a mount for the belt tensioner as well.It's been like this now for 7 yrs and its not come loose on the shaft.What happens is now the belts take up the side to side movement's and the yoke stays in its fixed postion.Larry

#4 broken2 OFFLINE  



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Posted April 02, 2011 - 10:26 AM

I'm a axle hub hoarder, I've bought several tractors for parts and always keep the hubs. I've yet to strip one though. One thing I do is to grease the hub and axle spline in the hopes that it will slow the wear.




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Posted April 02, 2011 - 01:30 PM

I have to deal with the same problem on an MF10 and although I have no experience to relate yet, I have been researching solutions. It seems that in the auto industry Jaguar and Volvo both have manufacturer-recommended procedures using a metal-filled epoxy to fill the gaps and eliminate play. I thought perhaps I should look for a higher torque situation and found that JD recommend a similar solution for the repair of crawler axle/hub spline wear. In that case, the product recommended was a Devcon/Permatex titanium putty (which may be expensive). It does seem that as long as the splines have enough depth to grip, the repair involves simply eliminating any further movement wear, and if the depth of engagement were to be too shallow then it might be worthless, (but when you consider the strength of ordinary nut and bolt thread joints, not too much depth would be needed). The putty is good to about 350 degrees, so heat would be needed to get the hubs off again, but that should not be a real problem.

It doesn't seem right to glue a tractor back together, but it appears to be a recognized solution.
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#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  


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Posted April 02, 2011 - 06:16 PM

It doesn't seem right to glue a tractor back together, but it appears to be a recognized solution.

I agree, glue'g it back together just doesn't seem right. Old school I guess.
That said, epoxy's and adhesives have come a long way since route 66.

Back to Firefyter's ?
Two years ago I JB welded the drive shaft spline on my MF1450, that had been
half stripped. Still holding.
So as far the hubs go, I'd try the epoxy solution.



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Posted April 02, 2011 - 06:43 PM

I know it would be time consuming but I would probably try drilling and tapping for 8 set screws per hub. One inner and one outer and in a cross shape perpendicular to the axle. Maybe even put some sort of small recess for the set screws to sit in on the axle.