Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

MF12G re-power


  • Please log in to reply
95 replies to this topic

#46 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,486 Thanks
  • 5,014 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted November 09, 2015 - 10:57 PM

That's great that it is all coming together for you. 

Thanks for the updates.


  • MFDAC said thank you

#47 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 10, 2015 - 09:09 PM

Glad you got to drive it, you say it's running rich ??? choke working, fully opening, air filter OK ???

Yeah and it is because I figured I could out-engineer the Japanese engineers---LOL! I'll explain below, Doug!

 

That's great that it is all coming together for you. 

Thanks for the updates.

You're welcome Chris, not completely coming together yet, but here's what I discovered tonight.

 

I took my air cleaner setup off of the and set it up to run open carb with no air cleaner at all. Still running identical to when it was all together, black rich-smelling puffs of smoke when I would work the throttle, it would "load-up" at idle and even running at higher rpms. I did that to determine if it was a restrictive air cleaner setup but it's something more.

 

I put the plastic air cleaner housing on it and the problem was gone, just like that! The spark plug cleaned up within 5 minutes of run-time and no trace of black smoke. Problem is (besides I don't want to run that little piece of sponge) that this will be extremely difficult  to get the lid off when cleaning or replacement is required along with hood and grill clearance issues.

 

I'm gonna sleep on it tonight and maybe I will dream up some way to rectify this problem!

 

First three pics are small as I cropped them out of a big pic showing the low-tech flange on my air cleaner setup and the original one. Third is the little piece of foam that is the air filter element for this plastic housing. It or the lid wasn't installed to make it run well. The last one is with the housing on and engine running nicely.

 

DAC

Attached Thumbnails

  • Engine swap air cleaner 3.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 2.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 4.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 1.jpg

  • limebuzz and Alc have said thanks

#48 DH1 OFFLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted November 10, 2015 - 09:34 PM

OK Your flange that you made up, is smaller than the one on the factory air cleaner assembly.

Is it covering up some small air holes on the carburetor?


  • MFDAC said thank you

#49 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 10, 2015 - 09:54 PM

OK Your flange that you made up, is smaller than the one on the factory air cleaner assembly.

Is it covering up some small air holes on the carburetor?

The "hole" is very close in size, but it don't have the "notches" that you can see on the black one. I was hoping no adverse affect but-----------oh well back to the drawing board on this part I guess! I may try to use the die grinder to replicate the notches to get better flow to those ports in the carb.

 

DAC


  • Cvans said thank you

#50 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 11, 2015 - 09:50 PM

I decided to use the stock plastic housing, BUT I couldn't help myself-- I chopped it all up on the top end to still take the paper filters that fit the HH120. I've got it roughed in, fitted and it works! Still a lot of cleanup and some painting to do.

 

Pic1 plastic debris cut off the housing.

Pic2 fitting a filter and a stud on the what's left of the stock housing.

Pic3 Stud was 1" off center so I bent an offset into it and put welds on the corners.

Pic4 Had a cover from an old Briggs that I cut the top off of for a lid.

Pic5 Test fitted and ran. The hood rod will clear this setup.

 

DAC

Attached Thumbnails

  • Engine swap air cleaner 006.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 007.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 010.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 008.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 009.jpg

  • limebuzz, Alc, KennyP and 1 other said thanks

#51 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,486 Thanks
  • 5,014 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted November 11, 2015 - 10:16 PM

Nice work. Your working in some pretty tight spaces. 


  • MFDAC said thank you

#52 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,455 Thanks
  • 39,686 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 12, 2015 - 05:52 AM

That looks like a good fix!


  • MFDAC said thank you

#53 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 12, 2015 - 09:09 PM

It's been a good day and the new air cleaner setup seems to have worked great! Got it cleaned up and installed this afternoon. The engine started and ran great with no trace of being rich or boggy now at various rpms. I didn't get to drive it around outside but I pulled the spark plug after about an hour of running in the shop and if anything it looks a bit lean now. I'm not going to be real concerned about that right now. Still have about an hour of load free break-in to go with the engine according to what the manual wants.

 

DAC

Attached Thumbnails

  • Engine swap air cleaner 011.jpg
  • Engine swap air cleaner 013.jpg

  • limebuzz, KennyP and Cvans have said thanks

#54 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 16, 2015 - 10:41 PM

Update, flooding still comes and goes. After messing with it a bunch today, it seems the float just isn't effective enough to close the needle all the time. I put a little "helper" spring on the float and it's working great again, but that was just an experiment. I have a new, ADJUSTABLE carb coming, only cost 11 bucks so I figured "what the heck"! That one can use some of the kart racing parts it looks like too if I need some better quality guts on the inside.

 

I go "on call" at work tomorrow so will not have much to report for a week.

 

DAC


  • limebuzz and Cvans have said thanks

#55 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 24, 2015 - 08:14 PM

"On call" at work ended today so maybe I will have something to report in the next few days. My family is going to Las Vegas to be with our niece and son for Thanksgiving so there won't be much for distractions around here. I did get some clean-up done during the last week and finished the engine break-in period tonight, driving it around in the yard for nearly an hour! Tires and wheels/weights cleaned up much better than I expected! When I took the pics I noticed dog poop on the tire after my drive tonight----we don't have dogs!!!! Looks like I missed the underside of the fenders.

 

DAC

Attached Thumbnails

  • Cleaning 12G 001.jpg
  • Cleaning 12G 002.jpg

  • limebuzz, MH81, wvbuzzmaster and 1 other said thanks

#56 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,289 Thanks
  • 28,623 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 24, 2015 - 08:49 PM

Dog poop or gum? :D

Glad the engine is working out and breaking in.
  • MFDAC said thank you

#57 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,455 Thanks
  • 39,686 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 25, 2015 - 08:11 AM

Those weights look real good on there. Good to hear it is ready to go now!


  • MFDAC said thank you

#58 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 28, 2015 - 12:06 AM

Dog poop or gum? :D

Glad the engine is working out and breaking in.

It was definitely poop!---LOL! I'm in the poop business for a living---LOL! I think it's going to be a good engine, just need that new carb.

 

Those weights look real good on there. Good to hear it is ready to go now!

Thanks, Kenny, it's not quite ready to go but once the carb gets here then final assembly will get done.

 

Finished the cleaning and paint touch-up along with all the sheet metal fitting. The little studs on the hood hinge stripped out when I was removing it so they had to be cut off. I broke the old spot-welded ones off, smoothed them out, drilled to 1/4" and just used short bolts to hold the hood on. i still have to finish installing the implement pedal but it isn't needed with the dozer blade anyway. I welded up grooves that were worn into that shaft and polished them out. Just won't know if I need a little longer belt until I put the cutting deck back on.

 

I bought the tire chains on the right in the chain pic at a rummage sale in Denver a couple years ago and was thinking about shortening them for this tractor but the cross-links are so much further apart than on the chains from the MF8E (left) that I'm not sure now. Maybe a gravel driveway wouldn't get abused so badly with more space between the cross-links? I have no idea what those chains are for. Box was too badly damaged to read specs, but for 5 bucks I was buying them anyway. Width is 12" on both sets.

 

Now I need to find the threads about the folks that cut a piece of pvc pipe and install it on the cutting edge of the snow blade as I would like to try that on my 630 blade I brought in to the shop this afternoon. Looks like it will be easy to install and use!

 

DAC

Attached Thumbnails

  • getting ready for snow 003.jpg
  • getting ready for snow 002.jpg
  • getting ready for snow 006.jpg
  • getting ready for snow 001.jpg
  • getting ready for snow 004.jpg
  • getting ready for snow 005.jpg

Edited by MFDAC, November 28, 2015 - 12:09 AM.

  • DH1, limebuzz, KennyP and 2 others have said thanks

#59 CRFarnsworth OFFLINE  

CRFarnsworth

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6275
  • 3,642 Thanks
  • 1,734 posts
  • Location: Rossville Illinois

Posted November 29, 2015 - 03:29 PM

 

 

Now I need to find the threads about the folks that cut a piece of pvc pipe and install it on the cutting edge of the snow blade as I would like to try that on my 630 blade I brought in to the shop this afternoon. Looks like it will be easy to install and use!

 

 

I bought a2"x5' stick of pvc and two end caps. I cut it to the length of the blade plus the extra to install the caps.  I then cut a narrow section out of the length and slid it over edge of the blade. The pvc slid over the top of the edge mounting bolts which keeps it from sliding down. The end caps are installed with self drilling screws which keep it from sliding off the end.  I used this set up for the past two winters and love it for my gravel drives. 

This works well with the cub cadet blade on my 782.  But a different method is needed for my allis or my sears as they will not let the tube slide on the same way.  Since I haven't needed them I haven't figured out what to do for them yet.   Rick

Attached Thumbnails

  • SUNP0336.JPG
  • SUNP0338.JPG
  • SUNP0337.JPG
  • SUNP0339.JPG
  • SUNP0341.JPG
  • SUNP0343.JPG

  • limebuzz, KennyP and MFDAC have said thanks

#60 MFDAC OFFLINE  

MFDAC

    Only member from Western South Dakota!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5815
  • 2,030 Thanks
  • 1,126 posts
  • Location: East of Rapid City, SD in Rapid Valley

Posted November 29, 2015 - 09:41 PM

I bought a2"x5' stick of pvc and two end caps. I cut it to the length of the blade plus the extra to install the caps.  I then cut a narrow section out of the length and slid it over edge of the blade. The pvc slid over the top of the edge mounting bolts which keeps it from sliding down. The end caps are installed with self drilling screws which keep it from sliding off the end.  I used this set up for the past two winters and love it for my gravel drives. 

This works well with the cub cadet blade on my 782.  But a different method is needed for my allis or my sears as they will not let the tube slide on the same way.  Since I haven't needed them I haven't figured out what to do for them yet.   Rick

Thanks Rick! That is what I was looking for but hadn't time to search yet! This Massey blade doesn't have those  mounting bolts but the bottom of the blade is rounded to change the angle of the cutting edge if desired. So I am thinking about first trying the blade as-is with the height locked at about an inch off the ground. That's about where I would run the skids on the MF8E blade.

If that tries to dig in too much then removing the edge so the blade lays on it's rounded base might be worth a try. If that's a success then maybe a piece of pvc over that may be the ticket to prevent wear on the blade. I will use your method with the caps.

 

I don't like the inner fender clearance with the chains and I got to thinking about how the chains dig holes when bogged down. I'm going to try without chains and see if it can be done. We are getting some snow but not enough to plow yet. Thankfully there's been no wind.

 

First pic is that rounded bottom on the blade, second the tractor with it all mounted and working. Today's snow is the third pic.

 

Hmmm---Friday night I broke my "shop camera" so today I dug out another old one and obviously I missed the date by a year! I need to remove that date stamp anyway. The outside pic was taken with a different camera too that has high resolution, but they were all taken today!

 

DAC

Attached Thumbnails

  • getting ready for snow 008.jpg
  • getting ready for snow 007.jpg
  • 11-29-15.jpg

Edited by MFDAC, November 29, 2015 - 09:47 PM.

  • DH1, limebuzz and Cvans have said thanks




Top