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345 won't start


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#1 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2015 - 09:20 PM

Well I bought this 345 from a buddy up the street for $75.00 and drove it home knowing the 54" deck had an issue. It has the 19 horse Kawasaki water cooed engine. Replaced an idler pulley on the deck and it was mowing like a champ. A few weeks ago it began to get a little hard to start and then the other day my daughter ran it out of gas.

I fill it up and it will not start, It hits a little but no vroom. I changed the inline filter(which wasn't really stopped up) and drained the fuel bowl a couple of times still nothing. It will hit some but refuses to start. I ran the battery down trying to start it and continued on with the booster on the charger so I'm pretty sure its not a voltage issue. I would have thought that if a bunch of junk got sucked out of the tank it should have been taken care of with the filter change and bowl drain. Pulled the plugs and they look fine but where a little wet with fuel.

What do you think. Carb kit? I'm open to any advice or ideas. Thanks in advance.


Edited by Nxt2doc, June 23, 2015 - 09:23 PM.

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#2 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2015 - 09:36 PM

My guess is that you have the classic attack of the time delay module. 

 

Check the engine for spark.  No spark?  Don't panic! 

 

Looking close at that Kawasaki FD engine, it looks fairly complicated.  With its own unique ignition system, I guess you could say it is complicated.  Its easy to get overwhelmed wondering what wires to unhook and which connections to test.  

 

There are quite a few electronic components that can fail on one of these Kawasaki engines.  Most, however, do not fail suddenly and they will begin acting up and giving you warning signs. 

 

However, the most common solution to a Deere 425 "no start-no spark" situation is a little stupid module that seems to have been a problem from the first.   When it fails, the tractor will shut down one day and not start up the next. 

 

The problem is called the time delay module. It is designed to allow the engine to run for a few seconds more after you turn the key off so that it will burn out any residual fuel in the carburetor bore and keep the engine from giving a nasty backfire.

 

You'll find it screwed onto the side of the engine, on the operator's right hand side.  It will be a square box with one small bolt holding it onto the engine shroud, and a bunch of wires running off of it. 

 

IMG_20150505_105120_809.jpg

 

IMG_20150505_105126_036.jpg

 

Incidentally, the pictures above are from a GX345 with the new style module that also burned out.

 

IMG_20150505_105142_087.jpg

 

IMG_20150505_105151_033.jpg

 

Take it off and go for a ride to your (hopefully) friendly local Deere dealer.  Tell him you want an AM118859 module and (if it is the right time of year) watch him say, "Oh, you own a Kawasaki powered garden tractor, huh?"  They sell dozens of these a year.  Remember to replace your spark plugs when you replace the module.  Chances are they are fouled from cranking the machine with no fire. 

 

The replacement module will be round, and it will not bolt onto the shroud.  It should be about $25 odd dollars.  Reconnect the wires.  Wire tie the module onto the harness somewhere so it won't rattle around and beat itself to death.

 

95% of sudden no spark scenarios are solved by this module.

 

Ben W.


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#3 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2015 - 09:54 PM

Fuel solenoid on the carb is either sticking or burnt up or the wire got disconnected ? Those pesty critters on the Kawasaki shut off fuel to the main jet. 

 

 

What the heck is a time delay module?  Darn new fangled contraptions.


Edited by EricFromPa, June 23, 2015 - 09:56 PM.

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#4 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 09:55 AM

Thanks for the advice fellas. Working on the ambulance 24 hours today so it will be tomorrow before I can put this sage advise to practice. Ill let you all know how it goes.


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#5 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 02:13 PM

My guess is that you have the classic attack of the time delay module. 

 

Check the engine for spark.  No spark?  Don't panic! 

 

Looking close at that Kawasaki FD engine, it looks fairly complicated.  With its own unique ignition system, I guess you could say it is complicated.  Its easy to get overwhelmed wondering what wires to unhook and which connections to test.  

 

There are quite a few electronic components that can fail on one of these Kawasaki engines.  Most, however, do not fail suddenly and they will begin acting up and giving you warning signs. 

 

However, the most common solution to a Deere 425 "no start-no spark" situation is a little stupid module that seems to have been a problem from the first.   When it fails, the tractor will shut down one day and not start up the next. 

 

The problem is called the time delay module. It is designed to allow the engine to run for a few seconds more after you turn the key off so that it will burn out any residual fuel in the carburetor bore and keep the engine from giving a nasty backfire.

 

You'll find it screwed onto the side of the engine, on the operator's right hand side.  It will be a square box with one small bolt holding it onto the engine shroud, and a bunch of wires running off of it. 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20150505_105120_809.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20150505_105126_036.jpg

 

Incidentally, the pictures above are from a GX345 with the new style module that also burned out.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20150505_105142_087.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20150505_105151_033.jpg

 

Take it off and go for a ride to your (hopefully) friendly local Deere dealer.  Tell him you want an AM118859 module and (if it is the right time of year) watch him say, "Oh, you own a Kawasaki powered garden tractor, huh?"  They sell dozens of these a year.  Remember to replace your spark plugs when you replace the module.  Chances are they are fouled from cranking the machine with no fire. 

 

The replacement module will be round, and it will not bolt onto the shroud.  It should be about $25 odd dollars.  Reconnect the wires.  Wire tie the module onto the harness somewhere so it won't rattle around and beat itself to death.

 

95% of sudden no spark scenarios are solved by this module.

 

Ben W.

 

I'm back trying to get tis thing to run. I appreciate your input but Im not finding on my tractor what you have on yours. Could you please take a look at the pic I posted and see what you think.

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  • WIN_20150709_140702.JPG


#6 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 02:26 PM

Fuel solenoid on the carb is either sticking or burnt up or the wire got disconnected ? Those pesty critters on the Kawasaki shut off fuel to the main jet. 

 

 

What the heck is a time delay module?  Darn new fangled contraptions.

I also can't find any wire leading to the carb for a solenoid. Can you elaborate further.



#7 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 02:30 PM

Just a heads up over all. It has spark. It still cranks a hits occasionally but will not go ahead and start. About at my wits end on this thing. Between work and rain and no mower I had to pay a neighborhood boy to knock it down and keep the yard from looking like the place was abandoned. Oh by the way the snapper push mower took a dump too. Living the dream I am.


Edited by Nxt2doc, July 09, 2015 - 02:32 PM.

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#8 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 08:06 PM

Fuel Solenoid has a single wire that plugs in to the bottom of the solenoid.Finding the wire for it will be a pain in the butt unless you remove the Air box on the front of the engine.

 

 

I think I would pull the carb off and give it a good cleaning Atleast pull the Float bowl off and have a look at it.And test the solenoid to see if it's sticking or burnt out.

 

This is the same engine.JD doesn't allow manuals to be circulated so I took an engine manual from Kawasaki and subed in the JD part number.

 

kaw.jpg $_57.JPG

 

 

It's a single 12v wire that will have power as soon as the key is turned to the run position.You can test it by removing it from the carb and hook a wire to the terminal.It grounds though the body so just touch it anywhere on the body to the negative on your battery and the terminal to the + side.

 

It should click and pull the pin back and stay back until you remove power.


Edited by EricFromPa, July 09, 2015 - 08:07 PM.

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#9 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 09:48 AM

This may sound dumb but have you checked the air filter?  I don't know how many mowers and tractors I have gotten in with the same issue, "It was running fine and just stopped to do ____ and it won't start."  Pull the filter and it is clogged. 

 

If the plugs are wet then you are getting fuel. Have you put a spark tester on to see if you are getting fire continuously?   On the 320 with the FD engine most all the ignition components are on the left hand side of the motor towards the back kind of tucked up under the body. There is also a square black box module that will cause you a lot of grief it is in the same location as above.



#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 02:29 PM

You can have spark but not strong enough under compression to fire. My BIL's JD165 Kawasaki was like this. New module and it starts and runs great.
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#11 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 03:13 PM

The Ignition Module is the usual culprit as well in my book.  Put a dollup of gas in the carb throat and try it.  If it fires then the spark is fine.  If not, Pull the plugs and ground them on the engine in a fashion that you can observe the spark.  Crank the engine..  If the spark is yellow/orange, the module is failing..  You should have a nice blue/white spark if the module is @ top form.  Good Luck and maybe you can get a local farmer to bale your yard for you??



#12 javjacob OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2015 - 02:02 AM

I am 99.9% sure the TDM (time delay module) is only on the 99 and newer model 345's which have the 20hp FD611V motor. The 98 and older 345's with the 18hp FD590V don't have that extra electrical junk to worry about. My 345 is a 98 and doesn't have it.


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