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Sickle bar shakes


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#1 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2015 - 09:06 PM

Obviously a sickle is going to shake naturally but I feel mine is wicked bad. It's on a 2414 and I just installed a new blade tonight. It was NOS parts from a former PK dealer now JD. My father had welded the end that bolts to the pitman arm on before he passed and I finally got a chance to put it all back together.

I can see the potential for it to be unbalanced, shakes bad enough it feels like the tractors going to come apart. Also noticed the sickle "frame" will shift maybe a quarter of an inch side to side at times.

Any good ways to help balance and atleast reduce the shaking? I'm going ti pick up some new fasteners to replace some of the old bent crap holding it to the tractor.

#2 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2015 - 09:46 PM

Sickle bars do shake like crazy, and that is since they are swinging a heavy weight back and forth.  However, any play like you describe will make that any shake 100 times worse than it should be. 

 

Also make sure your belt is tight (if the PK uses a belt) since any slippage, which is low RPM, will make your sickle act worse.  The faster a sickle runs the smoother it gets.

 

Ben W.


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#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2015 - 05:29 AM

 

Also make sure your belt is tight (if the PK uses a belt) since any slippage, which is low RPM, will make your sickle act worse.  The faster a sickle runs the smoother it gets.

 Ben would that include my David Bradley walk behinds ?  I was always afraid of running them much past idle



#4 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2015 - 12:36 PM

Belt has an auto tensioner, and I was wondering what the best way to run these things were. I was running 1\2 throttle 1\1 gearing

Edited by a.graham52, June 23, 2015 - 12:37 PM.


#5 framesteer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2015 - 07:48 PM

I don't know much about sickle mowers on garden tractors (although I've been looking for a Haban 405 for my Bolens tube frame for quite some time), but I did work for John Deere on their combine cutting platforms.  You have two practical ways to reduce knife vibration:

 

1. Add mass uniformly to the drive sheave, enough so that he knife mass is small compared to the sheave

 

2 Counterbalance the mass of the knife by adding weight to the gearbox/crank drive sheave in a position on the sheave that counteracts the knife.

 

Make sure your holddown clips are snug down on the knife, but not so tight they generate heat and consume a lot of power.


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#6 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 09:54 AM

I didn't know anything about the hold down clip tension, I just slid the blade in and called it good. Should there be any lube of any sorts on the blade?

Edited by a.graham52, June 24, 2015 - 09:55 AM.


#7 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 12:22 PM

Hi the clips need to hold the sickle bar down so it can move up and down but as posted not so tight that the sickle won't side in easily, I use an oil can squirt oil on all the clips and along the back edge of the sickle while its running before each use.


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#8 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 02:24 PM

No worries, clips ARE there lol. I just slide the blade though from under the tractor to install, then tipped the blade up to get the bearing to clear the bar frame. Guess I need to take a good look at it tonight

#9 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 04:34 AM

So I replaced the two bolts and nuts that bolt the sickle to the frame, now that I'm able to get those tight it greatly reduced the shaking for sure. However I can tell the belt is slipping and I iv got the tension as tight as I can. The belt is wicked old and has seen better days I'm sure so replacing that will be next on the list. Iv worked that tractor harder in one night then it's been worked in 10 years
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#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 07:33 AM

An old belt that sat for years will develop "memory" that never leaves.  This permanent curve in the belt from sitting in the pulley for so long can cause more shaking, and if it has a place in the belt where it slipped till it burned in a low spot, that will really cause a shake.


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#11 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 07:40 AM

 

An old belt that sat for years will develop "memory" that never leaves.  This permanent curve in the belt from sitting in the pulley for so long can cause more shaking, and if it a place in the belt where it slipped till it burned in a low spot will really cause a shake.

Never gave that a thought , mine sits on the walkbehind only being used a few times a year and never comes off so I'll start removing the belt during uses and see if that helps , Thanks Al



#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 07:45 AM

Never gave that a thought , mine sits on the walkbehind only being used a few times a year and never comes off so I'll start removing the belt during uses and see if that helps , Thanks Al

 

It's just like an old biased ply tire and how they develop flat spots from sitting & can take several miles down the road before smoothing out.  Gives for a very rough ride! 


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#13 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 01:18 PM

Hi olcowhand, you are so right about biased tires and old belts taking on a memory, I've  had drive belts on Sears Suburbans that have sat for yrs and thought with some use they would straighten out but they don't, didn't notice it so much when driving but when sitting idling in neutral  sure did shake and rattle.



#14 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 02:46 PM

Can anyone tell me what size the belt is supposed to be? I'm not sure I'm going to have time to take the belt off and get to the store to order one

#15 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 06:00 PM

I broke it. Tooth came out and has wedged itself into the blade keeper, don't have the tools to take it apart tonight. How does one go about reattachING the tooth? Small bolts or rivits?




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