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LGT 145 running problems


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#1 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 03:13 PM

head.JPG piston clearance.JPG top of block.JPG I have two identical LGT 145s with 14HP Kohler engines. Mower number 1, which I have owned for about 8 years, ran fine until about a year ago when it would die after 15-20 min running. Tried everything fuel and electrical but no success, so finally gave up and bought mower number 2. That ran fine all last summer until the end of the season when it became very hard to start. In a previous post, I detailed what I found wrong with the head and head gasket and after having that corrected, the mower now seems to be back to normal.

 

So now I'm looking again at mower number 1 to hopefully get it running again. Pulled the head today and the pictures show what I found. The exhaust valve is a strange brownish yellow with that same color on the block adjacent to the valve. There is some oil on the block and head gasket toward the front. As the piston sits in the bore, it is almost touching the bore toward the front but there is about 1/16" gap around the other side. None of this looks good to me. Could any of this be causing my lack of power and eventual dying of the engine?



#2 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 05:54 PM

Can you move the piston back and forth in the bore? Was it burning oil?

 

Looks like it was getting pretty hot in there. What plug are you using, should be an H10C (Champion number) or equivilant


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 06:16 PM

How was the flywheel key? The timing being off can cause it to run hot too. The cylinder looks a little worn but if it wasn't burning oil or slapping it probably wasn't a factor. Are you going to rebuild it now that you have it apart? Good Luck, Rick


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#4 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 03:47 PM

I haven't gotten to checking the flywheel key but I did discover that the timing was about 15 degrees retarded, according to my calculation. The plug is a Champion H10C and looks good, light grey/brown.  I checked the valves which were about dead on and reset them to 9 and 18. I think the gap between the piston and bore was an optical elusion caused by uneven chamfer at the top, because when I ran the piston to tdc, it looked good. Today it's raining so tomorrow I'll give it another try. If it still exhibits the same symptoms, I think a rebuild is in order. Thanks for the comments.


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#5 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 05:35 PM

I haven't gotten to checking the flywheel key but I did discover that the timing was about 15 degrees retarded, according to my calculation. The plug is a Champion H10C and looks good, light grey/brown.  I checked the valves which were about dead on and reset them to 9 and 18. I think the gap between the piston and bore was an optical elusion caused by uneven chamfer at the top, because when I ran the piston to tdc, it looked good. Today it's raining so tomorrow I'll give it another try. If it still exhibits the same symptoms, I think a rebuild is in order. Thanks for the comments.

15* retarded on a 283 Chevy would make it overheat and run like crap. Fix the timing after you check the key. Good Luck, Rick



#6 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2015 - 04:36 PM

The keyway and key are fine, so somehow the timing got out of wack. So, as I said, I decided to rebuild the engine ( I did it last in 2006). Need a new piston as the bore is worn and tapered. I'm having to put in a .040 one. Discovered a couple other things - the return spring on one ACR weight was not engaged (I can't swear I didn't knock it off while taking the camshaft out), and the valve adjuster bolt heads were worn down quite a bit which would have given a false valve clearance reading, possible causing overheating when the engine warmed up. Maybe these two things and the timing are causing the engine to shut down after some use. Here's hoping. 



#7 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2015 - 08:38 AM

I finished re-assembling the engine with new piston, re-ground valves, and gasket/seals set. The machine shop skimmed the tops of the valves adjuster bolts so they are now flat and I now get an accurate reading when
adjusting the valves. The engine fired right up and idled fine, but when I increased speed, the engine ran
wild. Turns out that I had not tightened the pinch bolt on the governor shaft enough. My old Ford seems to runfine now, so I'm thinking the dying problem was a result of the valve adjustment being out because of the
depressions in the heads of the adjuster bolts.
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#8 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2015 - 05:58 AM

Timing on a Kohler k series is done through a cam lobe on the crank, the points adjustment and pin length are what control this. They actually have special lobes for advancing the timing for things like tractor pulling and such. So the flywheels are irrelevant for timing.
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