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Tecumseh HH120 valve guides


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#1 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2015 - 06:25 PM

is it possible to bore out/ream the valve guides in a cast iron Tecumseh so that "false" guides can be installed, allowing  standard diameter stems to go back in? I have an HH 120 here that belongs to a buddy who lives a couple hours away, he dropped it off to me to see what I could do with it.

On this particular engine, as originally built, there are no seperate guides, just a hole bored into the casting for a "guide".  The 1/32" OS diam.  valves seem to be no longer obtainable,  I can't believe this engine would be rendered "scrap," over this.


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#2 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2015 - 06:56 PM

I have no answers for you, but sad that an engine is still useable and can't get parts. I have one of those engines in my MF 12. Noel

#3 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2015 - 07:18 PM

I never installed a bushing in a Tecumseh HH, but I did many in aluminum & cast-iron B&S engines.

 

The Briggs valve guide bushings were brass and may possibly fit the Tecumseh valve stems.  ....If not, a brass or bronze bushing could be made.

 

The main thing to remember is to not bore the entirely through the existing valve guide.  ......You want to leave approx. 1/16" of original guide, so the bushing has a shoulder to seat against.  ....This prevents the bushing from dropping through the guide.

 

It is best to make the bore of the bushing slightly undersized, as it needs to be reamed concentric to the seat after installation.  ....The O.D. of the bushing should be sized to be a press fit into the bored guide hole.

 

Once the guide is installed and reamed, the valve seat should be refaced to make sure it is concentric with the new valve guide bushing.


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#4 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2015 - 09:37 PM

Check with Brian from garden tractor pulling tips website. I think he has rebuilt the Tecumseh flat heads before

#5 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 03:05 AM

Might want to look into an auto machine shop , we used to replace valve guides but started using what I think was called a Rapid guild liner easy and quick to put in but you needed the proper tools to do it.i'am not sure what all sizes they make them in , but they work slicker than snot.


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#6 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 08:17 AM

Might want to look into an auto machine shop , we used to replace valve guides but started using what I think was called a Rapid guild liner easy and quick to put in but you needed the proper tools to do it.i'am not sure what all sizes they make them in , but they work slicker than snot.

the place that I 1st took it to WAS an automotive machine shop.  and one that has done this sort of work for me before. but now that it is a 1 man shop instead of a 3 man shop, the scope of the jobs they will take in has cut way down, 

in fact, they don't tell many of their customers but alot of the work that they still do take in gets farmed out to another automotive machine shop about 25 miles away.

The 1 remaining worker there told me of "the only guy in the county" that he knows that can still do what I need, (not the shop they farm their stuff to, that is in the next county over) 

 

The shop that I 1st took it to, has done this exact sort of job for me in the past, IDK if the tooling that he is lacking  belonged to one of his former co workers, (and they took it with them when they left) or what.

The crank grinder guy worked 1/2 days well into his 80s and is now dead, and the block machine guy had back surgery a few years ago and had to retire too.

the remaining guy strangely enough is the guy that would be most likely to rebuild a set of heads when they came thru the door. and he's the guy that said that he doesn't have the tool needed to fix this engine.

All 3 of the guys that were here have been at that shop for well over 30 years.  the crank grinder guy had been there since the '50s and just died about 2-3 years ago.

 

 

This "only guy in the county"  that will still do this sort of work, I took the block to him and he said something about "having to see if there's a Briggs guide that he could make to fit"/ 

I could care less if the catalog lists  what ever guide that he can get to work,  says it's for a Briggs, a Tecumseh, or a Chevy or Harley, or what ever.... once it's in there the motor, it won't know the difference.


Edited by dodge trucker, June 13, 2015 - 08:31 AM.

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#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 08:29 AM

I guess automotive machine shops are dying off , not many around me like years ago .Back then most parts houses had them.
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#8 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 05:16 PM

ell this "only guy in the county that can supposedly do this anymore" called me today. Done. I wasn't expecting the bill to be quite that much but everything these days is way more than I remember it used to cost not very long ago...

He said he did find some "Briggs guides" that he was able to make work,  $75 to bore the valve guides oversize and install guides on a single cylinder.... yikes.



#9 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 07:38 PM

Did the $75 include re-cutting the valve seat?



#10 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 08:21 PM

You could "knurl" the guides.  That requires a knurling tool, then a reamer of the right diameter.  It lasts pretty well, but not as long as machining for new guides.



#11 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2015 - 12:30 PM

No these were definitely too far gone to knurl. The guy who did it asked if the engine had its original exhaust valve in it because it was "too short" to where he said he welded on the tip and then ground it back to the right length. I had never heard that before. I asked why, since when you grind the valve face and seat the valve is further down and usually then is too long and then the tip needs ground to regain your clearances. I guess that it was still short even considering that.

I dunno, as that tractor used to be mine and I never had to go inside the motor, but who knows how many people owned it before me?




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