Without the pump the engine will be starved for fuel.
It actually running rich but I put the pump back on. It has a little smoke when it first bogs down and it goes away when it evens out.
Posted March 27, 2016 - 07:47 PM
Without the pump the engine will be starved for fuel.
It actually running rich but I put the pump back on. It has a little smoke when it first bogs down and it goes away when it evens out.
Posted March 27, 2016 - 07:58 PM
Bluish White smoke = flooding
Posted March 27, 2016 - 08:01 PM
Think the old carb's seat is leaking. I got to make a $250 minimum order to get my part account setup with briggs so I will order a brand new carb.
Posted March 27, 2016 - 09:36 PM
Posted March 28, 2016 - 07:58 AM
Larry wouldn't ...bluish white smoke be rings or head gasket and black smoke rich on fuel?
Posted March 28, 2016 - 08:48 AM
Larry wouldn't ...bluish white smoke be rings or head gasket and black smoke rich on fuel?
You are correct, Black smoke = flooding.
Posted March 28, 2016 - 07:00 PM
That carb is leaking worse everyday I got a headache from being in the barn around it. I did get the oil pan swapped back around .
Posted March 28, 2016 - 10:49 PM
Those B&S flo-jet updraft carburetors have to be the trickiest carbs to get right. A little to much one way on the float and a little the other can be the difference between starving and flooding. I have one with a bad "seat" and no matter what I do its never going to seal unless the float low that it shut fuel off as soon as it gets a little bit. Thats good at idle to mid speed but can't run it wide open or it will starve for fuel. Then if I try to adjust it so that it will get enough fuel (Correct adjustment) when fuel enters there is not presure on the needle valve and seat to stop the fuel flow. Well there is enough pressure but not enough to stop the flow on that worn out seat and that results in fuel not shutting off and leaking everywhere.
Posted March 28, 2016 - 10:58 PM
A bad intake vale also causes symptoms that seem carburetor related....you will know this and you will see the carb spit fuel out of the gasket areas as back pressure from the intake valve comes back to the carb in the wrong direction.
Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:00 AM
A bad intake vale also causes symptoms that seem carburetor related....you will know this and you will see the carb spit fuel out of the gasket areas as back pressure from the intake valve comes back to the carb in the wrong direction.
We are going to do a leak down test tomorrow.
Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:38 PM
Yea, if the valves are not right it will shake, rattle, clank, spit, and all kind of Demonic things. https://www.youtube....h?v=J6Fgc7zATPM
Edited by larrybl, March 29, 2016 - 08:39 PM.
Posted March 30, 2016 - 11:42 AM
Weather stop any work getting done today.
Posted April 20, 2016 - 12:44 PM
I have had the SS15 for a year today.
Posted April 20, 2016 - 03:21 PM
Hulk II (2009)
Red (2010
Old Girl (2014)
BOH (2015)
BMP (2010) Sold
Posted April 24, 2016 - 06:11 PM
Check your valve lash.Seen some pretty heavy carbon buildup and some burning on your intake valve.That also explains the popping though your carb your hearing and some of your Carb problems.
My SS14 is getting torn down soon to.I had the head off of it a couple days ago and noticed a good bit of chunky carbon buildup in the inside of my intake valve bowl.It smokes black when I throttle it up and has very noticeable popping through the carb @ just above idle and up to around 1/2 throttle.Couldn't figure out why I could not get my new carb adjust to where it would run good without it running really rich or puttering from running to lean.Mine was fouling spark plugs like crazy.The Plugs are Black and heavily sooted up.
I did put a newer 16hp carb on it and it does seem to run a bit better at lower RPMs but it's still not running right.
Exhaust valve on mine was cleaner than the intake valve.I thought my spark timing was advanced to far till I pulled the breather and checked the valve lash.
Valve lash in inches.
Intake should be .007/.009 exhaust should be .017/.019
My intake valve is way out @ .004 and my exhaust is actually dead on spec @ .019 and a little tight on the feeler gauge.Going to do a good lap on my valves and see how much that I have to shave off the stems.Then do a light hone and install my new rings and rod while I have it apart.
The intake valve seat is cut into the iron block and will wear a bit.Where the exhaust valve has a hardened seat and lash will not change much over the years unless the seat becomes loose or valves get burnt.
At the end of the exhaust stroke the intake valve will be open a tiny bit and you'll get a puff of exhaust down the intake and carb if the lash is to tight on the intake valve.
Edited by EricFromPa, April 24, 2016 - 07:01 PM.