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B110 Steering stuck

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#1 vintageiron OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 03:17 AM

I picked up a running B110 the other day at a yard sale for $25, its in somewhat rough shape but it runs great and everything seems to work except the steering. The guy had it stowed in the back corner of a leaky garage for decades. The seat is trashed, but it came with a homemade rig that uses a standard seat, and the steering was stuck.

I sprayed just about everything I could get at on the spot with PB Blaster, ran some down the shaft and around the top bushing and it got better but it still barely turns.
Its stuck down low on the shaft, if I remove the drag link, the wheels steer freely, and the top bushing is free. When I turn the steering wheel, the lower shaft moves around and will skip a gear if I turn with any force. It will turn but if I push it it'll skip, when it skips, the lower part of the steering shaft snaps forward as it skips. I can grab hold of the steering shaft under the hood and move it around about an inch side to side or front to back. It looks like I'd have to remove the dash tower, battery, fuel tank, and hood to get down to it?

Is there a bushing or bearing that fails commonly on these? Its also got about 4" of free play in the steering, if I rock the wheel side to side it'll turn all the way bit by bit in either direction but if I try and move it with one motion it jams up and then skips a gear.

I've dealt with the newer models but never one of these. I've been lucky and none of my other machines have had steering issues like this.


The tractor has a good bit of rust under the battery and through the side panels but other than that its fine. I'm concerned that something has rusted out or broken free.

I mainly bought it for parts for one I bought a few weeks ago that smokes real bad with a bent front axle, this one will supply all those parts but if the steering is an easier fix, I'll use the first one as the parts machine.




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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 06:55 AM

Download the correct manuals for the B110 from our Manuals Section. http://gardentractor...service-manual/ One of the verticle shafts in the gear area is probably seized. Just take it all out and rebuild it. Forcing it will break the gears.

If the other one has a bent front axle, then use the new one to fix up. When something hits hard enough to bend the axle, the frame will probably be bent too. Check right infront of the BGB. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, June 11, 2015 - 07:13 AM.

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#3 Talntedmrgreen ONLINE  


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Posted June 11, 2015 - 07:10 AM

I would recommend just pulling the steering assembly.  Disconnect the tie rod end (AG) from the arm beneath the steering box (BH), and take the shoulder bolt (BN) out of the steering wheel shaft to free it from the yoke/universal joint block (AU) .  

There are a handful of small bolts beneath the frame that thread into the steering box to secure it.  Take those out and the whole she-bang should wiggle up and out of the frame.  
From there, you can further disassemble to clean things.  My guess is that it's sticky from rust or old hard grease.  That can be remedied.  If your primary steering gear (quarter moon shaped gear (BJ) has loosened at some point, it will both wear teeth from uneven meshing, and wallow out the rectangular hole that it sits on the steering arm assembly shaft (BH).  Best bet is to just put a donor in.  I've seen some repaired with welding and such.  This will also, and most commonly wear the other gear...the round, yoke (AV-Bushing Assembly).  Those teeth show wear the worst.  They can still be bought new, but aren't cheap.  A good used one should be on ebay or possibly in your parts machine.
Also, it's a great idea to replace the bushing within that gear (AW).  There's a good chance it's plain worn through, damaging the gear itself.  IMO, this was a big miss on Simplicity's part...there should have been a zerk on this assembly, as there is the lower portion.  After this bushing wears out, the eccentric pin (AX) that goes through it wears too.  Those are NLA and critical to reducing steering slop.  A simpletractors member machined a large batch a few years back and sold them for something like $20/ea.  I bought a half dozen and it saved a half dozen steering boxes for me.  I wish someone would kick out another batch.  Some guys have ground down their eccentric pin and used a thicker or dual bushings to soak up the slack.  Again, a parts donor can help.

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#4 vintageiron OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 07:20 PM

I'm more leaning towards fixing the first B110 since its not as rusty. The one with the bad steering has rust serious enough to perforate both side panels, nearly all of the battery tray is gone, and there's jagged rusty edged metal down below which I assume is part of the frame. The lower steering shaft is also badly rusted. It had an old style rubber cased battery in it with all the individual fill caps, the guy bought a new battery only after deciding to use or sell it.

The first one I bought had a mowing mishap on a hill, the guy who had it said he was mowing downhill towards a pond on the property and caught the back edge of the deck on a stump or something and it stopped the tractor but broke the front axle free of the frame. He welded something up to put it all back together but the axle assembly swings side to side about 3". It looks to me like he broke one of the pivot points off the front axle and welded it back on crooked.

The tabs where the deck attaches are also homemade and welded on, the deck on it is newer, and smaller than the deck he ruined. I have the ruined deck for spare parts.


Is it possible to remove the steering gear assembly without removing the dash tower and steering wheel? Can the steering shaft just be disconnected from the U joint and slid up out of the way?

#5 petrj6 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 08:14 PM

  the steering should be able to be taken out without removing the dash and all that.  you need to get the bolts out, they are threaded up thru the frame into the steering gears.  take those bolts out once you have undone the steering wheel shaft and the tie rod link.  after that it should be as simple as a little wiggling to get the steering gear out.  you may also have to remove the driveshaft from the motor depending on which steering gears you have.  I cant remember which one off my machines it is but one is a SOB to get the gears in and out of when the driveshaft is in.

   I can take pics if you need, the manuals section here also has lots of avail pics and info to get you out of trouble.


#6 vintageiron OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 10:10 PM

I'll give it a shot I guess, if its a matter of tearing too much apart, I'm probably better off fixing the first tractor and calling this one spare parts.

The way I see it, if I have to remove the drive shaft, I'm half way to pulling the motor and stuffing it into the other machine, and the same for the front end. I'd take everything from the drag link forward, tires and all and bolt it up under the other B110.

I reached underneath a while ago and tried to get the bolts loose from underneath but there's not enough left of the bolt heads to get hold of, they're rusted almost completely away. The whole area is badly rusted, everything below the battery is rusted pretty bad. I soaked it again with some PB blaster and I'll go at it tomorrow with some heat and a pair of vise grips I guess. I get the feeling that to get those bolts out I'll have to pull the motor and hang this thing up high so I can get at the bolts without laying on the ground under it. I have little doubt its going to mean drilling and re-tapping the threads at the very least.



I went and picked up the rest of the parts and the partial B10 today. This means my B1 gets what appears to be a never used pair of rear ag tires.