Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Ford LGT 145 Field Find


  • Please log in to reply
46 replies to this topic

#16 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 09, 2015 - 02:12 PM

I would inspect, clean and gap the points before I got too excited about that PTO switch.  It is not impossible that it is your problem, but not likely.  Use a test light to ground, make sure it lights up on the positive side of the coil with the switch on.  Then connect the light to power, put it on the negative terminal, then crank, the light should flash.  That is what I would do before bypassing things, that often makes a situation worse.

 

Surprisingly, the points look perfect! I took the cover off and inspected them closely :)


  • Dennisjeax said thank you

#17 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 09, 2015 - 02:14 PM

One quick way to eliminate all possible wiring issues is to hot wire it. remove the red cable at the battery and use two 16ga jumper wires with alligator clips to hook up to the + on the battery and + on the ignition coil, then to the "s" on the solenoid.

this will atleast see if it will crank, starting is a different issue. Expect stuck valves, stuck rings, stuck starter, gas tank goop, rotted fuel lines, busted fuel filter. When you get all of that fixed and running, you still have to replace the rotten tires, steering that wont turn, throttle/ choke cables that wont work, rusted brakes that wont release and alot more.

I think you are being optimistic thinking a carb rebuild and a good battery will get this in running condition. If it was me, I would bring a running GT to get this one on the trailer and bring it back home to a well lit clean shop instead of trying to rebuild it in a trash pile.

 

Well, for now it cranks great! Just not getting spark. If I had some way of getting it home, I would. And right now, time is of the essence.


  • Chopperhed said thank you

#18 Sprint 6 ONLINE  

Sprint 6
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30633
  • 164 Thanks
  • 217 posts
  • Location: East Central IN

Posted June 10, 2015 - 08:03 AM

Surprisingly, the points look perfect! I took the cover off and inspected them closely :)

Looking perfect and working are two different things.  It only takes a small bit of corrosion on the contacts to stop current flow.  I would still be taking a point file to the contacts and setting the gap to be sure.  Only takes a few minutes to do and you will be kicking yourself after you spend hours chasing it only to find it is the points.  You could do a tater suggested and hook a wire from the coil positive to the battery positive, that takes everything out of the circuit.  BTW, this tractor uses battery ignition, not magneto ignition, just wanted to be sure we are on the same page.  The PTO switch only affects the ignition circuit when in the on position.


  • Chopperhed and ToddQ have said thanks

#19 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 10, 2015 - 08:39 AM

Looking perfect and working are two different things.  It only takes a small bit of corrosion on the contacts to stop current flow.  I would still be taking a point file to the contacts and setting the gap to be sure.  Only takes a few minutes to do and you will be kicking yourself after you spend hours chasing it only to find it is the points.  You could do a tater suggested and hook a wire from the coil positive to the battery positive, that takes everything out of the circuit.  BTW, this tractor uses battery ignition, not magneto ignition, just wanted to be sure we are on the same page.  The PTO switch only affects the ignition circuit when in the on position.

 

Good idea, I'll file and regap, just to be sure. Also, even though the PTO only affects the ignition in the on position, the light blue wire for the coil still connects to a terminal on the PTO switch. On this tractor, the PTO switch is a corroded nightmare, the light blue wire may not be making contact.

 

Looks like I'll be headed out there tomorrow to try again! Wish me luck!



#20 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 12, 2015 - 07:46 AM

Looking perfect and working are two different things.  It only takes a small bit of corrosion on the contacts to stop current flow.  I would still be taking a point file to the contacts and setting the gap to be sure.  Only takes a few minutes to do and you will be kicking yourself after you spend hours chasing it only to find it is the points.  You could do a tater suggested and hook a wire from the coil positive to the battery positive, that takes everything out of the circuit.  BTW, this tractor uses battery ignition, not magneto ignition, just wanted to be sure we are on the same page.  The PTO switch only affects the ignition circuit when in the on position.

 

Sprint! You're a genius! Filing the points did it! She fired up! Well, I had to clean the carb real good also. But filing the points got me some spark!

 

So, I got it running! I also fought with the plow a bit but finally got it unhooked. Had to put a tube in one tire (the RF). Apparently I need one in the left rear as well - it held air for a little while but went down real quick. Also it has no brakes. The brake/direction shaft is seized. Looks like it's been that way for a while, the brake lever is disconnected.

 

So, I'll try taking off the left rear wheel and getting a tube and taking apart the brake/direction shafts. I'll update with more pics soon, and maybe even a video of it running :)


  • Alc, KennyP, Delmar and 1 other said thanks

#21 Sprint 6 ONLINE  

Sprint 6
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30633
  • 164 Thanks
  • 217 posts
  • Location: East Central IN

Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:50 AM

Glad you got it to run.  Now the next part of the adventure of an old garden tractor begins, you get to discover why it was parked in the first place.  There is always more to the story.  All part of the fun, like buying a grab bag at an old general store.

 

I would not worry too much about the brake right now, the brake drum on these tends to break loose from the shaft.  It is a major endeavor to repair, hence why it still has not been done on my closed side LGT165.


Edited by Sprint 6, June 14, 2015 - 06:52 AM.

  • ToddQ said thank you

#22 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,482 Thanks
  • 39,716 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:57 AM

Invest in a quart of Acetone & a quart of any ATF. Mix them 50/50 in a squirt bottle (or something you can shake often, it tends to separate). Best rust buster I have found. If the FWD/REV pedal is working, you wont need much brake. You'll learn how to stop real quick with that pedal!


  • Delmar, TomLGT195 and ToddQ have said thanks

#23 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 15, 2015 - 07:39 AM

Glad you got it to run.  Now the next part of the adventure of an old garden tractor begins, you get to discover why it was parked in the first place.  There is always more to the story.  All part of the fun, like buying a grab bag at an old general store.

 

I would not worry too much about the brake right now, the brake drum on these tends to break loose from the shaft.  It is a major endeavor to repair, hence why it still has not been done on my closed side LGT165.

 

My friend Frank asked his dad why he parked it, but he doesn't remember. According to him, "it just died". Which if his property we are cleaning up is any indication - he has the technical aptitude of a tree. If something quite working, he just tossed it outside. Frank also gave me a Crafstman Bush Whacker (heavy duty weed eater with a brush blade on it) that appears in great condition. Gas line leaks and the primer bulb melted though so I've got to replace those. But I bet it will fire right up after I do.



#24 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 15, 2015 - 07:43 AM

Invest in a quart of Acetone & a quart of any ATF. Mix them 50/50 in a squirt bottle (or something you can shake often, it tends to separate). Best rust buster I have found. If the FWD/REV pedal is working, you wont need much brake. You'll learn how to stop real quick with that pedal!

 

Thanks for the tip on the rust buster! I'm using PB Blaster which usually works well. I'll give the acetone and ATF a shot though - I've heard it mentioned before.

 

For now, I've got to find some time to get up there and get the LR tire off so I can go get a tube put in. Since the shops around here are only open 9-5 it's kind of a pain since I work full time. I'll probably have to call the guy and leave an envelope with the money taped to the back of the tire then put the tire outside his shop door.

 

I'm also gonna have to get the forward/reverse lever working right. It is very stiff and does not return to "neutral" on it's own.



#25 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    Therapy CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 11,752 Thanks
  • 8,921 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted June 15, 2015 - 08:16 AM

I'm also gonna have to get the forward/reverse lever working right. It is very stiff and does not return to "neutral" on it's own.


That's the spot for the acetone/atf mix. Probably just crusty.
  • ToddQ said thank you

#26 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 18, 2015 - 06:57 AM

Argh!

 

So, I went up to put the LR wheel back on the tractor last night after work - a great Toro shop in Nichols, NY put the tube in for me! So, I get up to the property and bolt on the wheel with no issue. I then fire up the tractor and take it out for a little drive around the property. I noticed two things; one - I need to do something about having no seat, that thing really bangs you around, two - holy cow is the steering loose, you can turn it 1/2 turn before it has any effect on the front wheels!

 

So after driving around the 17 acres, I decided to head up behind the old house and hook up the trailer that is there. I took the path up the right side but soon found it to be too full of holes. No problem, I'll back down and go up the left side. I push down one the reverse pedal and the engine died. Huh? I popped the hood - no oil, no smoke, no fire... wonder what happened? So I take off the side covers and saw the problem:

 

The Driveshaft Incident of 2015

 

Apparently when I backed up, some brush pushed the wiring harness against the driveshaft. I'm sure you can figure out what happened from there. In my frustration I forgot to get pics.

 

So, now I've got to make a temporary wiring harness. Temporary because I don't have all the colors I need. For now I'll just use red & black and when I take it home to restore, I'll grab rolls of the other colors I need.


  • Alc, KennyP, TomLGT195 and 1 other said thanks

#27 Marty'70 ONLINE  

Marty'70

    I didn't do it! Unless you have paperwork to back it up

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 72105
  • 731 Thanks
  • 633 posts
  • Location: Near Indiana,Pa

Posted June 18, 2015 - 03:24 PM

Always something!!!
  • ToddQ said thank you

#28 ToddQ OFFLINE  

ToddQ
  • Member
  • Member No: 71603
  • 28 Thanks
  • 24 posts
  • Location: Endicott, NY

Posted June 22, 2015 - 07:00 AM

May I ask someone a favor? Could someone get me some pics of the right side of the engine compartment on a closed-side LGT 145 tractor? It would be most helpful in my rewiring project!

 

Thanks! :)



#29 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,482 Thanks
  • 39,716 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted June 22, 2015 - 07:03 AM

I can get one from an LGT 165. Should be very similar.



#30 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,482 Thanks
  • 39,716 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted June 22, 2015 - 07:31 AM

Here's the LGT165 pic.

2015-06-22 07.11.52.jpg

 

The RED X is a jumper for the Neutral start switch. I was have issues with it making contact after sitting 2 years, so I jumped it for now. I'll get that issue taken care of once the rest of the problems are fixed.

 

The BLUE X's are wiring for my rear 12V  winch connection, so are not a part of the original wiring.


  • ToddQ said thank you




Top