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Ford LGT 145 Field Find


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#1 ToddQ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 09:16 AM

Before anybody says anything - I am getting pics! :) I'm headed back up there today.

 

I've got a 19XX Ford LGT 145 Tractor a friend has given to me. It's been sitting in a field for 20 years. It's got a bit of a backstory.

 

My friend Frank helped move his parents from Windham, PA to Florida to retire. Frank noted that their property (17.3 acres) was in bad shape when he moved them out. Looks like his parents just stopped taking care of stuff! House needs to be demolished due to severe water damage, garbage just strewn about the property, and apparently they were hoarders.

 

So, long story short, it appears the tractor's RF tire came off the rim and Frank's dad just parked it. Outside. About 20 years ago. :(

 

It's mostly intact, though the seat is destroyed. It's also sunk in the ground about 4-6 inches. It only has the plow attachment, Frank's dad bought it that way - so no mower deck. It's got some nice aggressive tires on the back and turf savers on the front. It was covered in garbage, ants, dirt, mold, moss, and grime.

 

At work the other day Frank is talking to me about how depressed he is because of the mess his parents left behind. He said their is a lot of junk up there and just needs to get rid of it. So he tells me I can have the old tractor and a weedeater he found. I come up to look at it and think it isn't that bad. I think I can get it to run again. If so, we can keep it there to haul stuff out (oh, it does have a trailer - with 2 flat tires). After that, I'll bring it home to restore.

 

After several hours in the field I got the following done:

  • Changed the oil
  • Put oil down in the cylinder
  • Put my motorcycle battery in temporarily
  • Found out my go kart key turns the ignition
  • Cleared out the ant farm on top of the old battery and wiring
  • Cranked it over! (no spark though)

I do have some problems:

  • Seat is toast so I bypassed the seat safety for now
  • Ignition & PTO switch are pretty badly corroded
  • It's sunk in the ground about 4-6 inches (luckily the plow is on it and kept it from sinking further)
  • Right front tire is off the rim
  • No spark

After googling around I have come to the belief that the PTO switch may be causing my issues. Turns out coil power comes through there. When I go up today, I'll get some more pictures as well as bring up my voltmeter to test things out.


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#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 09:38 AM

I've got a 19XX Ford LGT 145 Tractor a friend has given to me.

 

It's mostly intact, though the seat is destroyed.

 

 

 Though I am a nudist, I was wearing shorts in this pic.

 

Given the situation, I would highly suggest giving the seat the highest priority.


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#3 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 09:49 AM

take a air tank with ya..


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#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 01:14 PM

Here's the wiring on the 72-83 tractors. Yes, the starting circuit does go through the PTO switch. It could be the points are corroded.
Ford Wiring.jpg

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#5 ToddQ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 04:45 PM

As promised, here are the pics!

 

I only got up there to take some pics and show my wife the property. I didn't get a chance to work on it further - hopefully tomorrow after work.

 

Oh, and thanks for the wiring diagram! Very helpful!

Attached Thumbnails

  • 2015-06-07 14.46.18.jpg
  • 2015-06-07 14.46.28.jpg
  • 2015-06-07 14.47.03.jpg
  • 2015-06-07 14.48.58.jpg
  • 2015-06-07 14.49.17.jpg

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#6 poncho62 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 05:03 PM

I just got an LGT145 running today that had been sitting.......Points were shorted out, valves were sticking so had to take head off to get them moving. Carb  and gas tank was full of crap, mouse nests in fan housing.......fixed all that and it ran

 

I would drag it home and work on it...you can always take it back there when running. 


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#7 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 08:54 PM

 

 

I would drag it home and work on it...you can always take it back there when running. 

That would be my preferred plan for an awesome piece of equipment like that. However, circumstances aren't always the best, and allowances have to be made.  A portable air tank, A decent set of tools, a hitch mount tire machine, and a few standard replacement parts would probably get it going in a few hours. They built them differently back then.

 

If the aforementioned process didn't work, then a trip home and more time would be in order.

 

And don't worry about it being sunk in the dirt. I yanked mine out of 4" of ice in January Didn't bend anything I've found. I do mean yanked, as in GMC Safari van taking a 5 foot run on a heavy chain. only took 2.

 

A nice straight tug forward or backwards should get her out. If you are worried, soak the ground first. Looking at it, I'd go backwards first to prevent the blade from digging in.


Edited by Chopperhed, June 07, 2015 - 08:57 PM.

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#8 ToddQ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 05:04 AM

Given the situation, I would highly suggest giving the seat the highest priority.

 

Ha! Though the area is remote enough to ride around in the nude, there is so much overgrowth that I'd likely get scratched to death! However the seat frame is bad enough that I'll just remove it and put down some foam pieces I've got laying around for now. My wife said to go full country and cut the legs off an old lawn chair and use that! :)



#9 ToddQ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 05:11 AM

That would be my preferred plan for an awesome piece of equipment like that. However, circumstances aren't always the best, and allowances have to be made.  A portable air tank, A decent set of tools, a hitch mount tire machine, and a few standard replacement parts would probably get it going in a few hours. They built them differently back then.

 

If the aforementioned process didn't work, then a trip home and more time would be in order.

 

And don't worry about it being sunk in the dirt. I yanked mine out of 4" of ice in January Didn't bend anything I've found. I do mean yanked, as in GMC Safari van taking a 5 foot run on a heavy chain. only took 2.

 

A nice straight tug forward or backwards should get her out. If you are worried, soak the ground first. Looking at it, I'd go backwards first to prevent the blade from digging in.

 

Thanks Chopperhed!

 

And yes, circumstances are not the best here. I am gonna go buy a portable air tank after work today and I have a pretty good set of tools (I'm an ex car mechanic). I don't have a hitch mount tire machine though but there is a tractor store about 15 minutes away - if I can get that wheel off, I'll take it there for a tube. As far as a tug goes, the only way we can drag it is forward due to how it is sitting.



#10 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 05:14 AM

The tractor doesn't look  that bad , hope you can get it running out there in the field


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#11 ToddQ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 05:27 AM

Okay, here's the current plans.

 

Today - Monday 6/8/2015

  • Pick up an air tank at Harbor Freight
  • Figure out how to bypass the PTO switch, or replace it if cheap enough
  • Pick up carb kit (bowl gasket, float, needle, seat, etc) at Agway
  • Pick up spark plug at Agway
  • Pick up hydraulic fluid at Agway
  • Cut some foam up to work for seat

Tomorrow - Tuesday 6/9/2015 (if not raining)

  • Bypass or replace PTO switch
  • Clean carb and reassemble
  • Check for spark
  • Hopefully it fires up!
  • Air up 3 tires
  • Get it unstuck
  • Take RF wheel to get a tube

As for the PTO switch, I am a safety enthusiast so I don't plan on bypassing it forever. While up on the property we won't be using the PTO anyways. When I get it back here to do a thorough restore, I'll hook the PTO switch back up as well as the neutral safety (already bypassed) and the seat safety.

 

I've attached a colored wiring diagram. If anyone could tell me what I need to do to bypass the PTO switch, I would be much appreciative. I'm okay with circuits, but without a diagram telling me what gets connected to what when the switch is in a certain position, I'm at a bit of a loss.

 

It looks like the seat switch kills power to everything while the neutral switch kills power to the starter. The PTO switch appears tied to both somehow. I'm gonna see if I can find some sort of diagram for the switches - that'll help lots!

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  • Wiring Diagram - Colored.jpg


#12 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 12:33 PM

a 10 ft long  2x4 and a concrete block can go a long ways towards picking up the tractor to unstick it from the ground before trying to drag it, as well as working on that tire. 

 

 

012.jpg

 

 


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#13 ToddQ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 02:07 PM

a 10 ft long  2x4 and a concrete block can go a long ways towards picking up the tractor to unstick it from the ground before trying to drag it, as well as working on that tire. 

 

 

attachicon.gif012.jpg

 

Doh! I hadn't thought of that! Great idea! And we do have quite a few 2x4s and Concrete Blocks up there!



#14 Sprint 6 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 12:49 PM

I would inspect, clean and gap the points before I got too excited about that PTO switch.  It is not impossible that it is your problem, but not likely.  Use a test light to ground, make sure it lights up on the positive side of the coil with the switch on.  Then connect the light to power, put it on the negative terminal, then crank, the light should flash.  That is what I would do before bypassing things, that often makes a situation worse.


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#15 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 01:18 PM

One quick way to eliminate all possible wiring issues is to hot wire it. remove the red cable at the battery and use two 16ga jumper wires with alligator clips to hook up to the + on the battery and + on the ignition coil, then to the "s" on the solenoid.

this will atleast see if it will crank, starting is a different issue. Expect stuck valves, stuck rings, stuck starter, gas tank goop, rotted fuel lines, busted fuel filter. When you get all of that fixed and running, you still have to replace the rotten tires, steering that wont turn, throttle/ choke cables that wont work, rusted brakes that wont release and alot more.

I think you are being optimistic thinking a carb rebuild and a good battery will get this in running condition. If it was me, I would bring a running GT to get this one on the trailer and bring it back home to a well lit clean shop instead of trying to rebuild it in a trash pile.


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