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Grader Blade build, got parts.


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 10:38 PM

Ordered those teeth and holding pins for teeth on grader blade. Went and got some metal to start modifying my blade nowl 48" blade and four teeth. Was wondering how to figure placement of teeth, spacing I mean. Then it hit me. 6" in on each side for outers and 1 ft apart after that and comes out just right! I have plan for 5ft box and that is what they did with 5 teeth. They used 5-1/4 for outside ones and 12-1/4" for spaces, but comes out same, equal! Simple. I got 3/16" thick plate for sides, hope enough and 3" x 1/4 thick angle iron to make the square tooth holder out of. I can cut slots in that with my saw and weld togethe to make a tube. Would be much harder to drill and cut on a tube I was thinking. Leaves about 2-3/4" space in that, and teeth are 2-1/2" thick that way, should be good.

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Edited by glgrumpy, June 05, 2015 - 10:40 PM.

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#2 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 10:54 PM

Should work out pretty nicely for you. Keep us updated as you progress. Thanks.
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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2015 - 05:11 AM

I'll be lurking, GL!



#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 05:45 PM

Worked on blade today. Teeth came yesterday and look great. I cut slots in angles, made angles to pin to. All needs welded up now. Scared of welding bar tube to the 3/16 sides and burning through. Might take that to someone else.

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#5 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2015 - 06:03 PM

Very clever job GL. I like the idea of the angle iron for the teeth & still be adjustable. The sides turned out great too. I too get nervous welding the smaller stuff. Practice your adjustments on some scrap before you hit the good stuff. Good project.
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#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2015 - 06:40 AM

Thinking later one thing I could have done  is make the tube go right thru the sides and stick out some so it is pulling right on the metal and be easier to weld too I bet. Oh, well. Have been thinking about adding small angle iron to set it on at sides, could box the ends in that way??  Nah, might make one Horizontal one and one vertical and be done with that. Could bolt them on too.


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#7 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 12:50 AM

Well, welded up the tube angles and the holders on it. I forgot I had to make those 1/2" holes, bigger than what I had done, and now gonna be hard when on the tube! Ooops! Hoping to get a slightly bigger than 1/2 drill, as the pins are half and fit mighty tight in one hole I did make, need to be looser. Heck the holes in teeth are 5/8", wonder why so sloppy?  These ARE the reccommended size pins.  Anyway welding was going great and decided to try the tube on sides. It went real good and am happy with it. Didn't have phone to take pix.  I put it back on the blade mount and find the teeth mounts and teeth stick up too high to allow me to turn it. Guess they really aren't made to be turned, but if I wanted blade to turn, will have to take off the box parts, which I can, I bolted those on. I took off the two angled irons that ran from 3pt pin area to back on frame to clear the two center teeth. I cut them off and made them shorter and hope it will be enough where I am mounting them up closer. Think will have to go buy new top-link. Mine are all Power King ones and too long. Those have longer centers than most in stores. I only need about 14" long where it sets now level, and if want to adjust might need even shorter?  Just hoping MY farm store here even has Cat O ones, might not.  Have to go farther to TSC stores. I'll get pix tommorrow on what is done so far. I'm not sure if I wanna try it out in it's rough look shape or just paint it up and wait for debut when done?  Hate to finish it and find it has problems and not work as well as hoped. THAT would be big dissapointment!  I'm just betting the tractor won't have the traction I want to use it w/out weights. The next problem I am envisioning.

 

Wondering if I should be putting an extra metal along bottom of sides where it meets the ground? Think my plan for one has that. Guess just a flat stock, like 1/8" thick or such? Should I?


Edited by glgrumpy, June 13, 2015 - 12:53 AM.

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#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 05:06 AM

GL, look through my box blade thread. Maybe that will give you some ideas.


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#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 07:03 AM

Extra metal where sides meet ground:
Mine are 1/2" above the ground when level. With 3/16, having a wear bar welded on wouldn't hurt and should take a little flex out
Do not expect to dig craters with it and don't set your teeth to low... These take a little at a time with hard dirt and do what their supposed to.
On loose stuff, it will take a lot more.

Nice build GL
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#10 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2015 - 10:26 PM

Worked my A off all-day on this thing. Only stopped to run to stores for bolts and parts, etc. Have it all apart again and painting, guess that IS going to be the way it goes after all. Main parts are Red and some black accents then. Went to my local farm store after they said no top-link over phone. Had to describe it several times so guy got what I wanted and finally he said "We don't have that size". Went there for some draw pins and there it was hanging there, what an idiot. Was only $17.99 too and TSC way far away wanted $32 for same thing! AT least the TSC guy knew what I wanted. SO, now have that settled. New bolts and pins and going back together hopefully tomorrow. Might need second coat of paint on some items that I brushed, but that will be after assembled, like it or not!

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Edited by glgrumpy, June 14, 2015 - 06:14 PM.

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#11 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:04 PM

Hey! Wrote up big post for all the pix above and must have forgot to save??? I get pix off my phone and add on after making post on my puter. SO.......

Today put it on tractor after fixing some paint issues and deciding to leave blade as is. Had to raise tractor with jack to get the teeth on and off, even on the Snapper King later. The Speedex can barely lift it, and does wheelies at the slightest grade then. Guess would need front weights to use on it. Can't hardly back up and turn if on slight grade. Level seemed OK. I broke gravel with it in a few passes, with teeth about 3" or less down in it. That is as high as can get them. I tried to drill another hole in them, and went good at first but then started squealing bit bad, even with oil on it. I can drill from both sides and start fine, but not all thru center. ARe these hardened up above too and that is problem? Diff bits did no diff on the problem, so quit. I went back and got out the Snapper King and tried it out. The upper link on that is too short, even tho PK ones are longer and it fell apart trying to adjust the blade down to level with ground. SO, tried with about 3/4" above surface. It reall wanted to hop up/down alot on this tractor, where it didn't on the Speedex. Took teeth out again by jacking up tractor to get them out. Went back and tried blade only and did pretty good. I think would have been better if blade was more level. Found some areas where traction was lost and had to play with lift to go thru those areas. It was kinda wetish there. This is on a wet gravel drive with all the rains we've had this week and more to come. Think would have been better in dry gravel. The box really would also be better with back down level, so will be making extra long link I guess to use on this tractor. Went to lift at end of try and mower deck which is still on, didn't wanna lift right. After checking found the Mule drive mount was off one side, then other side was bolt missing also! Guess it couldn't take the pounding? Both go up/down at same time on these. Guess would be better to remove deck when doing 3pt stuff. I quit and washed it up, put some bolts in where those pins on mower were and fell out. Never did find any parts laying around, probly buried now! This picture have the teeth in right?? Something seems wrong with it??

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Edited by glgrumpy, June 14, 2015 - 06:05 PM.

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#12 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:10 PM

All together again and working on some paint repairs, then decided to let the blade be as is and went and tried it out. The Speedex can barely lift it and not high. I had to jack up tractor to even put the teeth in slots, then when I raised all the way to pin them in, they will still stick past the bottom of box. I took one out and tried to drill an extra hole in it. Went good at first, then bit started squealing hard and smoking. Oil on it didn't help much. I tried other bits all the same. SO, is it hardened steel and only hard in center, or what's the deal on that. I flipped over and goes good again, till more in middle, then same thing. I gave up on that ideal for now.  The tractor pulls wheelies when trying to just go up a slight grade, so front weights would be needed for sure on this one. I pulled it thru the gravel drive some and up to my house on hill too. Won't pull up the hill at all before breaking traction. Did fair coming down. Took it off that tractor and put on the Snapper King. Much bigger and heavier. Still won't lift high enough to take out teeth. I tried it and can get traction most of times, not in couple wet spots tho. The box wanted to just jump up/down madly on that tractor. I can't get the blade to be level on it, the top link is too short. I tried but it falls apart before I can get where I wish it to be. PK links are pretty long too, so guess will have to make me an extended one even to use this tractor. I went back and took out the teeth. With blade about 3/4" above ground, went back out to gravel. Went down the drive pretty good. Had to adjust depth with lift couple times when going UP the hill, or loose traction. Was hard to judge that. Went accross to neighbors place and tried that back/forth a little. Knocked down the center pretty good, still wanted to sink in the wetter spot there. Really needs more gravel to be better. Snapper King still has mower on it and when 3pt goes down, so does the mower. Went to lift one time and mower goes goofy and won't lift one side. Found a mount bolt had fallen out and it slipped off mount one side. Then checking the other, found bolt missing also!  Was really a pin and clip thing, which guess didn't hold in this ruff use. Never did find the parts anywhere in the area. SO, quit for now and washed it all off and put bolts in holes with lock washers, we'll see how they hold. I used float most times on blade. Zat what you do? Had to lift in some areas tiny bit and no float there then. Think little more tractor weight would be better on wheels, maybe less spinning times?  Took some pix of the unit and the drives. First time with teeth down to loosen up and next ones with just blade used. What think?  This is all on wet gravel drive, nothing but rain here this month and more to come. Gravel is washing down the hard surface road like always in spring storms. Really think some dry gravel would be easier to do the work. I will have to make that link longer to get it down in back also, think that is big issue for now. My first try at it, don't know how to do really and what to expect??  Well, found this again some how, not sure and set Post and HERE it IS!  Double story now!


Edited by glgrumpy, June 14, 2015 - 06:12 PM.

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#13 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 07:23 PM

Looking good. :thumbs:  You could add some flat metal to the top-link portion of the blade. Put another hole, lets say about 2" toward the tractor. Top-link should work and give you plenty of adjustment. Just a thought, would be easier than making a new top-link. I like how that blade has turned out, almost to pretty to use.


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#14 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 09:44 PM

looks like it is doing pretty well based on the wet conditions.

Can that brace that runs from the pivot on the blade be moved to the hole you have the top link in?
If you could do that, then hook your top link in the bottom hole, It looks to me like the top link would be long enough.

Or I have seen guys cut the top link sleeve in half and put a pipe over the two ends and weld it back together.
I have seen them both lengthened and shortened.

I have wanted box blade for a long time But gravel in the condition yours is in I find the landscape rake does a beautiful job.

Edited by JD DANNELS, June 14, 2015 - 09:46 PM.

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#15 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 10:39 PM

Looks good  :thumbs:.

As for drilling out the extra holes, slow speed on the drill, apply as much pressure as humanly possible and plenty of coolant. If the bit drills good until you get passed the angle on the point, the cutting edge on the flutes are probably shot. They can be resharpened, but will need a lot of material be removed to get back to the good stuff. It might be easier to cut a chunk out of the middle and weld them back up

The bottom edge is angled up on the one I built to get the cutting edge to dig better and gives enough adjustment that I can use the teeth or not just buy adjusting the top link. It may sound counter intuitive, but the edge on the blade actually digs better closer to 90* than it does around 45* on hard stuff. One other option is to raise the bar the teeth are mounted in. I have mine set so they dig 1-3" depending on how the top link is set. I dont think I have ever used the top hole on the teeth. If you cant removed the teeth without jacking up the tractor, make the bottom hole high enough that they wont dig in that position, sometimes you dont need them


Edited by tater195, June 14, 2015 - 10:43 PM.

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