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#16 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 09:07 AM

Here is the valve guide insert driver tool that I made and the inserts installed in the block.

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#17 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 10:12 AM

Here is the valve guide insert driver tool that I made and the inserts installed in the block.

very nice !


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#18 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 10:16 AM

Thanks. It's pretty easy to do, but it takes patients. Freezing the bronze inserts and the insert tool worked great.
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#19 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 10:35 AM

Thanks. It's pretty easy to do, but it takes patients. Freezing the bronze inserts and the insert tool worked great.

patients is something I need more of but I wont pray for it again ...so I am suppose to be able to remove my valve spring right ? mine didnt seem to have enough clearance .


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#20 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 11:56 AM

well I put a external coil on it and it fires right up and runs great ! so now I need to replace the wire and maybe the condenser . do I need to replace the maneto to replace that wire ?


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#21 classic ONLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 12:57 PM

Alec, I've been just replacing the coils in the engines that I've been working on. I like to have the best chance of keeping the engine running for a long time without having to tear back into it. The coil for that engine is about 20 bucks for an aftermarket one, and almost twice that for an original Briggs coil. A new condenser is also cheap insurance. Removing the engine isn't difficult at all, and it would be worth it since you can clean the engine under the sheet metal covers. It's good to have an ignition system you can rely on.

#22 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 05:44 PM

classic..  you deal with these guys ? or do you have a better source ?

 

http://tewarehouse.com/Catalog/0511

 

the points and condenser I got are primeline . every one I have used works ( thats a whoppin 2 ) the spring compressor worked and the stuff is cheap .

 

wish I wasnt forced into changing the oil to pull the engine   :flamethrower: 



#23 classic ONLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 06:25 PM

I always search for NOS parts whenever I can find them. The machines I'm working on now are restorations, so I want to restore them with original parts if I can. I have no particular source, I just search the internet. The sponsors here can help you out with the parts you need, too, so give them a shout. It won't hurt to change the oil after the trouble you have been having. You most likely have some gas in the oil due to the ignition issues.
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#24 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 06:30 PM

classic .. thats what I mean . I want to change the oil " after " I get it running decent  .. lol


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#25 classic ONLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 06:51 PM

I've been in the same situation. You could always clean the area around the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a clean container. You can then put the oil back in the engine and then change it once it's running good. The voices in my head wouldn't allow me to dump used motor oil back into an engine though, HA!
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#26 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2015 - 07:32 PM

classic .. mine ether . its just wrong on so many levels 


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