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#1 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2015 - 11:00 PM

got the exhaust valve broke free on my B110 . it was tight . got it running but it starts makin noise( dook dook dook ) and then starts smokin  then shuts down . I can hear the valve unstick after a second or two .


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#2 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2015 - 11:05 PM

Mix a little ATF to the gas. That will cure sticky valves on an engine that only runs for short periods and sits a lot. Have you checked the valve operation yourself? go through the side cover by rhe valve lifters and see if everything works. you can move the valves from there with a screwdriver to se if they stick.


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#3 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 12:56 AM

That's a good tip Doug, thanks. What are your plans for the tractor Alec? Is this a machine you want to rely on regularly? Those engines are simple to work on and parts are available. You might want to consider picking up rings, gaskets, crankshaft seals, valves, and valve springs. A basic rebuild on one of these engines really makes a world of difference. You probably have carbon build up in the valve guide and a burnt valve stem. You could just remove the valves, clean the valves and valve guides, and lap the valves for a better seal. I would recommend buying new valves so you can set the valve lash and lap the new valves in yourself. You have to check the valve seats for pitting, since this will keep you from getting a good seal.

#4 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 02:26 AM

That's a good tip Doug, thanks. What are your plans for the tractor Alec? Is this a machine you want to rely on regularly? Those engines are simple to work on and parts are available. You might want to consider picking up rings, gaskets, crankshaft seals, valves, and valve springs. A basic rebuild on one of these engines really makes a world of difference. You probably have carbon build up in the valve guide and a burnt valve stem. You could just remove the valves, clean the valves and valve guides, and lap the valves for a better seal. I would recommend buying new valves so you can set the valve lash and lap the new valves in yourself. You have to check the valve seats for pitting, since this will keep you from getting a good seal.

just tryin to save another B112 that is complete .it is one of 4 that I acquired to get my B110 with loader . the valve looks great ( as far as I can tell ) shiny ring inside the edge , stem looks good from what I can see . engine runs good for one minute then stalls out . if it was an oil burner it would smoke right at the start right ? I am working my way up to rebuilding but am cycling through the tractors I have first . next step would be to take out the valve ( havent done that process yet so this must be a good time to start ) got some marvel ,put it right in my big gas can so everything gets it  .

what is the best way to clean my valve stems ( if they arent pitted ? ) and guides ?


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#5 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 03:40 PM

You should pick up a valve spring compressor for small engines if you plan on removing valves. If you decide to remove the valves, just give me a shout and I can guide you through the process. Most of the time the valve lash will be too much and you will need to either cut the valve seat, reface the valve, or buy a new valve. The last valve that I bought for one of these engines was 15 bucks. If you reuse your valves, you can clean the stems on a wire wheel and you can use a gun cleaning brush to clean the valve guides. I'm working on two Briggs engines now and I'll be installing valve guide inserts, new valves, and grinding the valve seats.I will also have to grind the valve stem tips to set the valve lash. I'll post some pics soon as I go through the process.
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#6 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 10:12 PM

You should pick up a valve spring compressor for small engines if you plan on removing valves. If you decide to remove the valves, just give me a shout and I can guide you through the process. Most of the time the valve lash will be too much and you will need to either cut the valve seat, reface the valve, or buy a new valve. The last valve that I bought for one of these engines was 15 bucks. If you reuse your valves, you can clean the stems on a wire wheel and you can use a gun cleaning brush to clean the valve guides. I'm working on two Briggs engines now and I'll be installing valve guide inserts, new valves, and grinding the valve seats.I will also have to grind the valve stem tips to set the valve lash. I'll post some pics soon as I go through the process.

that would be great ! well the engine stopped smoking at least and it doesnt dook dook dook anymore . it just runs for one minute staggers runs 15 seconds staggers runs for a few seconds on dies ... rinse and repeat :deadhorse:  its got great compression at least :D



#7 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 05:59 PM

You should pick up a valve spring compressor for small engines if you plan on removing valves. If you decide to remove the valves, just give me a shout and I can guide you through the process. Most of the time the valve lash will be too much and you will need to either cut the valve seat, reface the valve, or buy a new valve. The last valve that I bought for one of these engines was 15 bucks. If you reuse your valves, you can clean the stems on a wire wheel and you can use a gun cleaning brush to clean the valve guides. I'm working on two Briggs engines now and I'll be installing valve guide inserts, new valves, and grinding the valve seats.I will also have to grind the valve stem tips to set the valve lash. I'll post some pics soon as I go through the process.

got my valve spring compressor yesterday and took out the exhaust valve . took it to the wire wheel and some 600 grit sandpaper with oil on it , put it back in and now she runs non stop :dancingbanana:  now I can mess with the carb and governor linkage . messed with the carb for about an hour tryin to get it to idle up without blowin smoke and sputtering out . finally noticed that if I move the points wire around it changes . there are some broken spots on the insulator wire . whats a good way to repair that ? if I am real slow I can work the rpm's up to full sometimes .     oh and wheres those pics ? lol


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#8 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 06:57 PM

Alec, you should just run a new wire to eliminate the possibility of grounding that wire. The valve guide reamer, reamer bushing, and valve guide insert tool arrived. The insert tool was the wrong one, so I made my own. I reamed out the valve guides and installed the bronze inserts. I put the inserts and insert tool in the freezer and it made it easy to install the inserts. I don't have a pic of the inserts installed yet, but I will take one and post it here. It's nice to not have to rely on a machine shop to install inserts now. I have to bring the block to my buddies house and cut the valve seats and the engine will then be ready for assembly.

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#9 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 08:01 PM

Alec, you should just run a new wire to eliminate the possibility of grounding that wire. The valve guide reamer, reamer bushing, and valve guide insert tool arrived. The insert tool was the wrong one, so I made my own. I reamed out the valve guides and installed the bronze inserts. I put the inserts and insert tool in the freezer and it made it easy to install the inserts. I don't have a pic of the inserts installed yet, but I will take one and post it here. It's nice to not have to rely on a machine shop to install inserts now. I have to bring the block to my buddies house and cut the valve seats and the engine will then be ready for assembly.

nice ! you got a long enough feeler gage ? the wire broke at the points so I pulled the points and replaced them ( to dang hard tryin to put the wire on with the grill in place anyway ) then the plug wire end  broke off . tryin to avoid yankin the engine just yet but thats not looking good . I can replace just the end right ?


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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 08:31 PM

There's a few feeler gauges stacked up there. They were close by, so I grabbed them and yea they are long, HA! I bought them at a yard sale last year. You can just replace the plug wire end and you can even replace the whole wire if you absolutely have to. Just use high temp silicone to insulate the wire at the coil end. You should just pop the grill off of the tractor since it makes it a whole lot easier to work on the engine.
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#11 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 10:08 PM

There's a few feeler gauges stacked up there. They were close by, so I grabbed them and yea they are long, HA! I bought them at a yard sale last year. You can just replace the plug wire end and you can even replace the whole wire if you absolutely have to. Just use high temp silicone to insulate the wire at the coil end. You should just pop the grill off of the tractor since it makes it a whole lot easier to work on the engine.

I may just do that . thanks for the help


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#12 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 11:24 PM

You're welcome Alec. Trouble shooting can get interesting.
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#13 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 11:41 PM

You're welcome Alec. Trouble shooting can get interesting.

yea livin the interesting times moment . cant even enjoy my small victory ( I am trying to hahaha ) ....mean old allis !



#14 lrhredjb OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 07:15 AM

Classic, how did you get the block you are working on so clean?

I also like to use long feeler gauges. I buy them from Enco.


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#15 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2015 - 08:00 AM

I used a Speedblaster sandblaster with media that I screen myself.The media is much softer than sand and works great.I don't normally sandblast engine blocks, but this one needed it. Also, the block is completely bare, so it will be easy to power wash it after I cut the valve seats.

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Edited by classic, June 26, 2015 - 08:04 AM.

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