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LGT 145 Repairs


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#1 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2015 - 11:50 PM

My LGT 145 has been developing several problems. Some of them are things I found & shown in a post called Interesting Wear Point that were easy to live with until I was ready to do some restore to it. Then the tractor developed a problem that needed to be repaired. The hydraulic lift was barely able to lift its self. So I decided it was time to do some repairs & removed most of the body panels as I felt it would be easier to work on the hydraulics with the rear fenders & drive shaft guard removed. I had purchased some new front tires so all of the wheels have been removed. The way the lift had been acting I felt it was the cylinder that was the problem. For another future project I had purchased the components for hydraulic lift so I had a cylinder to use for the test. The other cylinder solved this problem & seems to actually lift better with more power then before. Looking at the Service Manual I find in Section 3C that these hydraulic cylinders are rebuild able so in the future I will try to rebuild the one that is not working. One of the wear points that I had shown in the other post & since I had it a part I decided to repair it.

 

1-15-2.jpg

 

As mentioned in the other Post I was going to use another ball joint on the other end of the rod.   

 

6058kp1l.png

 

First I welded the worn hole & drilled it for mounting the ball joint as suggested by someone I found that there was not enough clearance for nut on the back side.

 

Mod 3.jpg

 

Rethinking the whole process I decided to weld a piece of 1 inch bar were this would mount & fill the hole that I had drilled with weld also. After grinding to clean up the welding I drilled the size hole for a 3/8-24 tap & threaded the holed. This is the threads that the ball joint uses. I mounted the ball joint to this so that I could trim the extra threaded part off. 

 

Mod 6.jpg

Mod 1.jpg

Mod 2.jpg

 

Another change that I made was put in a grease zerk because I was starting to see some wear on the bar.

 

Mod 5.jpg

Mod 4.jpg

 

I have found some other repairs that I will show in another post as it is getting late.

 

Charlie

 

 

 

 

 


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#2 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2015 - 04:56 AM

Looks like that should work!


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#3 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2015 - 01:32 PM

 I hope you will have enough clearance between the sheetmetal and the ball joint ? I was going to do that on mine and it was a problem ? I like the grease fitting idea , I might do that on my diesel next time I take it apart.


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#4 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2015 - 09:24 PM

My measuring was not as accurate as I thought it was so I did not have enough clearance. With a couple of trials the problem is solved.

 

Mod 12.jpg

 

I realized with 3/8-24 thread that a 1/4 inch thick bar stock will have 6 threads which should be enough thread to hold this so I did not the extra bar added. Removing this gave it some clearance but I did not feel like it was enough. So I measured how far the mounting hole was from the pivot.  I cut an inch off of this I welded a 1/4 inch thick bar to the back side of the mount. A hole was drilled & tapped so that was used for the measurement. 

 

Mod 13.jpg

 

For the test.

 

Mod 14.jpg

 

Now cleaned up & painted waiting to be installed.

One thing with the grease zerk that I added is that I used a file that has one side that is curved & filed the grease zerk on the inside for clearance.

Another thing that I found was that the sleeve bearing in the lift mechanism are badly worn so I got replacement for this also at McMaster Carr. This is the ones that I decided to ordered.

  SAE 863 Bronze Flanged-Sleeve Bearing for 5/8" Shaft Diameter, 3/4" OD x 5/8" Long x 1" Flange OD. An explanation SAE 863 is.  SAE 863—Also called Super Oilite®, this material is similar to SAE 841, but contains more iron for greater strength. Note: Color is silver because of the iron.

 

Mod 9.jpg

 

Mod 7.jpg

Is what the new ones look like.

 

Mod 11.jpg

 

Mod 10.jpg

 

One question is when I trim them should they be on the long side so that the bolt head makes contact with the bearing & not the bar.

 

Mod 8.jpg

 

Recommendation on the best way to trim these.

 

Charlie

 


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#5 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2015 - 05:14 AM

A lathe is the best way to trim them. But can be done in a drill press if yo have a large enough chuck(most people do not) or careful grinding with a sandpaper type flap wheel works,just shim the back side and bring it down flush, remove shim and it should fit perfectly.;-)
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#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2015 - 05:42 AM

Sounds like that may work real well.


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#7 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2015 - 08:48 PM

My little Unimat Lathe works perfect for this. Thank you for the suggestion. 

 

Charlie



#8 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2015 - 09:15 PM

I learned something while putting things back together this evening. The lift cylinders are different sizes between the open side LGT & the closed side LGT. I had not paid any attention to the cylinders when I had put it on the tractor for testing. The lower mount on the cylinder for the open side is 1 1/2 inch diameter & the body is 2 inches in diameter. The lower mount for the closed side which is the one that I had purchased is 2 inches in diameter with the body being 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Where the big difference comes in is when using the larger cylinder the pin for the bottom mount is not long enough to put the cotter pin in. The cylinder can not really come off the bottom mount mainly because the top mount restricts the movement of the bottom mount. What I am thinking of doing for a temporary fix until I get the proper cylinder repaired is use some JB Weld to glue a cotter pin on the end of the shaft as it does extend past the larger cylinder. Others may find this interesting if shopping for hydraulic lifts for their tractor. 

 

Charlie


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#9 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2015 - 03:21 AM

The lift cylinder from open to closed sided machines are not different, someone may have changed it, or sent you something that is not Ford/Jacobsen. I have both models and the cylinders are the same. Many different model tractors used that length and diameter they just changed hole sizes and minor locations. The barrel end abd rod ends are where things get really different,from minor offsets to huge tabs for mounting.
So my point is,it is easy to get the correct length, but can be tricky to get the correct mounting.
The one you have may have come from the Gilson made LGT ***H they used the same cylinder but the mounting points were a bit different.
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#10 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2015 - 08:53 PM

I purchased this from Joes Outdoor Power last fall. He listed it for a LGT 125, LGT 145, & LGT 165 & the picture that showed the tractor was a closed side Ford. Maybe the PO that Joe got this tractor had changed it. I will try to get pictures of both cylinders this weekend.

 

Charlie


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#11 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 09:06 AM

This is a picture of the hydraulic cylinder that I purchased.

 

Cylinder.jpg

 

The blue cylinder is the one that was on the tractor that needs to be rebuilt.

 

Cylinder 1.jpg

 

Cylinder 2.jpg

 

The part that is attached to the blue cylinder rod is threaded so there would be some adjustment on it. I am curious how much more lifting power will come from the other cylinder as it is larger in size. I used some JB Weld to attach an extension to the shaft on the frame so that I will be able to put a pin in there.

 

Charlie



#12 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 08:59 PM

I finished getting the tractor back together. Some of the extra time was that I painted some of the body parts. Not the best paint job just used rattle cans but at least the rust is sealed & covered. I will try to get some pictures when the sun shines again. The one thing that really impressed me is how well the drive pedals work now. Just a light touch to forward or reverse & the tractor is moving. I have not had a chance to really drive it because of the weather. The response to pressing on the pedal shows how worn the mechanism was before.

 

Charlie


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