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Question on 3-pt hitch


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#1 SnowmanPA OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2011 - 12:40 AM

I'm looking for a review of this Cat 0 3-pt hitch being sold by Redland Hill.

http://rover.ebay.co...56&toolid=10001 http://cgi.ebay.com/....item4ceab54aab

It's a universal 3-pt hitch and the price doesn't seem too bad. I'm just wondering if anybody out there can tell me if it is well built or not?

The one potential issue that I see is that the lift arms themselves are straight pieces with no offset bend in them like the pictures I've seen of most factory arms.

The other potential issue I see is that the quality of the welds and the finish looks a bit suspect. In the picture they display (not a great picture unfortunately) it looks a little like there is a lot of splatter from the welds.

Before I buy them, I was hoping somebody on the forum has already bought them and could provide a go / no-go recommendation.

Thanks!

Ted

#2 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2011 - 10:00 PM

This is just my 2 cents worth but what I see in the kit are the easy parts to make if you are making a 3 point hitch. Depending on what tractor you are wanting to install this on you still have to make the tractor mounts for the lift arms, build your rockshaft with arms along with its pivots, build the brackets and controls and buy the parts for what ever type of lift you are going to use ( hydraulic, manual, or electric actuator), build the anchor point on the tractor for the upper link, and figure out the geometry to get it all to work right. If you can look at a tractor the same as yours that has a 3 point hitch already on it you can get measurements and ideas for how to build yours. If not then it would take more research and trial and error to get a 3 point hitch built and working.
I have not bought this kit but I do have tractors with 3 points on them already. I also build a lot of my own things and when I saw what was in the kit I kind of made a list of what you needed yet to make these parts work as a complete 3 point hitch. If your tractor has hydraulics on it already or has a ported hydro unit that would make it a little easier than building a complete hydraulic system from scratch as you could use that for running a hydraulic cylinder but you would still need a valve and hoses to connect everything. If you don't already have hydraulics you would have to add a pump, filter, reserviour, along with the cylinder and control valve. Using an electric actuator is simpler than building a hydraulic system but you still need the actuator, switch, fuse, possibly a relay and the wiring.
As to the straight lift arms it is possible that to make them work on your tractor you would have to bend them to have offsets like you have seen. It would depend on your rear wheel clearance to the lift arms once you got the lift arms mounted. If you build it to cat. 0 standards you may run into tire rubbing problems. Sears garden tractors had a narrower width between the lift arms on their attachments and had straight lift arms but the Sears implements will not fit on cat 0 hitches and vice versa with out modifing them.
All in all this is advertised as a 3 point hitch but a lot of work has to be done before these pieces make a complete working hitch.

#3 SnowmanPA OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2011 - 09:07 AM

The tractor is a Bolens QT-16. It has hydraulics and the factory rockshaft already (see picture below). I've spent all day researching and measuring and running over to Tractor Supply.

Their Cat 0 inventory is almost non-existent. They have top links for about $25 but no lift arms or lift links for Cat 0.

I thought I was going to have to order the Redland Hill kit and bend the lift arms, because it appears that their arms have zero offset. It is difficult to tell from their photo, but the arms appear to be pretty much flat bars with swivel balls on the ends.

However, after a google search for Cat 0 lift arms, I found an outfit that has the arms with a 5" offset. That should be perfect, because my mounts are 12" apart plus the 10" of total offset gives me a spread of 22", not counting the amount of movement I'll have due to "swivel".

I ended up ordering the lift arms and the top link from an online outfit called Farm and Ranch Attachments . I ordered the vertical links (side links, whatever they are called--I've seen them called both) from Redland Hill.

I'll let you all know how things turn out.

Ted

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bolens 3-point 1.jpg
  • Bolens 3-point.jpg


#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2011 - 06:07 PM

Thanks for the update, let us know what you end up with.

#5 SnowmanPA OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 11:46 AM

Here is a quick update for everybody. I bought a York Rake from Tractor Supply yesterday, but I can't use it yet because I'm still working out the kinks in my 3-pt setup.
As I mentioned before, I ended up ordering the lift arms and the top link from Farm and Ranch Attachments and I received them in 2 days! (They are located in PA as well, so that helps.)

LIFT ARMS: They look good, but I was surprised at the length. The Redland Hill arms are about 21" long, but these are 26" long. I don't know if there is a "standard" size, but these seemed long to me. The bearings are snug and the welds look decent. The 5" offset is perfect for my tractor. We'll see how they work.

TOP LINK: The top link looks identical to those that they sell at Tractor Supply...probably comes from the same manufacturer in China. But here is the first snag: I know each tractor will vary in configuration, but the top link seems very short to me. It is 16" long at full extension. Now, I'm new to this whole 3-pt thing, but from what I've seen, it would appear that most 3-pt implements are designed so that the lift arm points and the top link point are oriented in the same vertical plane. Based on this assumption, it would seem that my top link is about 10" too short for my lift arms. It is true that the top link mounts about 2" further aft than the lift arms on the tractor end, but that still makes this top link about 8" too short. My solution? By a Cat 1 top link. Fortunately, Tractor Supply has a Cat 1 top link that is adjustable from 21" - 31" and it's only $20, compared to $28 for the "long" Cat 0 top link. BONUS: It was on sale this week for $15! Wow, something is finally going my way!

Of course, I still have to use some various reducer bushings to make the Cat 1 bearings fit on my Cat 0 pins, but that is easy, Tractor Supply sells them too! OOPS! One more snag...the width of the Cat 1 bearing is too much to fit in the top link bracket on my tractor, so I've got to do a little surgery with the sawzall and grinder.

LIFT LINKS (or side links or whatever they are called): The only place I could find the lift links was Redland Hill, so I ordered a pair. I haven't received them yet, but I already figured out that they are going to be WAY TOO LONG! 13" - 19" !!! Ok, I take full responsibility for this screw up. I naively assumed that if a part is labeled Cat 0, that it would work with any other part labeled Cat 0. Well, I failed to read the fine print when I was researching parts at 2 AM and was really gung ho to get these things ordered quick before my wife found out how much money I'm spending on my $300 tractor!

On my Bolens, it appears that a lift link around 6" is going to be about right. I have a parts diagram of the factory 3-pt, but there aren't any dimensions. I'm figuring that I'll need to break out the sawzall and the mig welder to scale these things down. In the meantime, I'm wondering if I shouldn't have just done some more research on fabricating my own parts from tubing and heim joints before I spent all my money on parts that I'm going to have to cut and weld anyway.

That's about it for the update so far. I'll keep you all posted and get some pictures up as well, but probably not until this weekend. Any questions or comments, feel free to reply.

Ted

#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 12:36 PM

Looks like I'm abit late seeing your thread.
For reference
https://www.allparts...temNumber=15990

Lots of goodies there.
This might be handy also.

Posted Image
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#7 SnowmanPA OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2011 - 11:01 AM

Thanks for the link to the allpartsstore.com. They provide a link to local businesses. I found the same lift links for less $ than I already paid online (plus another $20 for shipping!) I guess I should have shopped locally a little harder. Its just so easy to sit on the computer and use the "Buy it Now" link!

Also, I can't make out the details on the standards pages you posted. Do you have a link where these are available already?

#8 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2011 - 11:55 AM

yahoo groups is where I got it.
You have to join to gain access.
I think it was in the files section of the homebuiltequipmentfortractors group.

Yep, just checked.

Or if you pm me your email, I can send to you tonight.

#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2011 - 05:51 AM

Google " ASAE S320.1 ". I was able to down load a .pdf copy of it.
KennyP

#10 ducky ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2011 - 11:25 AM

Google " ASAE S320.1 ". I was able to down load a .pdf copy of it.
KennyP


Kenny
Would you be so kind as to post it.
I can not find one.

#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2011 - 04:32 PM

Not sure how to do that. Mods, how can I post a .pdf file for someone to download?
KennyP
http://gjbz.ugcn.cn/...point hitch.pdf
There is the link to the .pdf. Down load at will.

Edited by KennyP, April 07, 2011 - 04:38 PM.
Added Link


#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2011 - 06:18 PM

Posted pdf in manuals-Massey Ferguson-Implements
  • KennyP said thank you




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