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Boat running today


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 09:37 PM

Had boat running today, ran good. I had earmuffs hooked up today. Water all over place outside. Inside water running out of manifold and block side. Seemed to stay running long time. Water temp 160 most times if kept above idle some. Oil pressure is moving around some, like before. I had revs high as 4500 a few times, really wailing! The shift control is also a throttle both ways? The other idle lever must be for just that, only get 3000 rpm there. Now need to find oil gauge to fit into block to test pressure there. Po has extended pipe and wrong sender in block now, not sure if that is issue? No gauges with 1/8" end anywhere open today. Kid at A zone wasn't sure what an oil gauge even Was when I asked. Duh. I drained a little oil out of pan, best I could reach. No milky oil or water, which I was expecting maybe. The valve cover breather shows a lot milky. I Ceased it and it looked ok down in cover, much as can be seen. Will look into gauge later and retry that. Going to also get marine oil changer to suckered from dip stick hole, as no room or place To drain from safely. Here's shot of engine crack. Water out there and manifold edge about just behind at wires in pix.

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#2 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 10:14 PM

Sounds like its just an external crack.  you may have gotten lucky on this one......


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#3 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 10:34 PM

The crack IS on opposite side of block as oil passage is on. Might be why not in oil??  The oil is High on dipstick, yet no water from plug yet. I'll pump it out maybe and put in new to retry after I get gauge for it.



#4 toppop52 ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 11:00 AM

Just go to AutoZone or Walmart and walk back to the shelves, both sell gauges with senders for a few dollars. If you have no water in the oil, go buy a lottery ticket, you're a luck s.o.b.! :D  That can be repaired by getting completely dry and using any one of a number of epoxy products made for that purpose. best to grind a shallow V along the crack first and grind or sand the surface out a couple of inches from the crack.


Edited by toppop52, May 25, 2015 - 11:00 AM.


#5 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 08:37 AM

Just go and buy a new boat or a new engine, it will save you a lot of time and headache in the long run.



#6 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 09:32 AM

A guy who has owned a lot of boats told me "A boat is a hole in the water that you throw money in"


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#7 nglauer OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 04:00 PM

I think west marine or overtons will sell one of the oil drain kits that can be pulled out through the drain plug. Ihad one on my boat, it made changing oil easy and extremely clean. (Although tou need the oil to be drained to install it - or have a catch pan in place to get whatever runs out while you are swapping plugs

#8 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 05:06 PM

Oil change pump kit coming from Northern. Just slip tube down the dip tube, we hope. 12 volt to run off the battery then. I did see some expensive kits to put in the drain hole and a hose to where? I don't know. I have a plug on bilge area that comes out, maybe that gets poked out that hole to pump in a bucket??  Also found a guage in shop, right where I looked and didn't see, geez!  Today went and bought the proper oil sender unit also. Going to try gauge in block first. IF proper readings, then going to try the sender and see if boat gauge changes then. I'm hoping pressure is even, guage in block should tell.  Got new oil to put back in also, but just now thinking I forgot a filter. Now not sure it has a filter?  Have to look again! All this money is just for "testing" the darn thing. Not a thing is improved yet with cash making out-flow, ha!



#9 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 05:27 PM

Being this crack is on a boat I wouldn't do any quick fix. If your not too busy right now I would pull the engine & prepare for an other one. You might be able to get some good fall boating in with no stress on the water.

#10 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2015 - 08:10 PM

Found this stock water tank at Big R. Not too big, yet long enough and high enough to clear drive with prop off and wing thing. $59, Wife said no, not in her car to get home! If had truck, would own now.50 gals, think would work good. Wife didn't care it could hold ice and beverages at other times! Plastic one too, but cost More, hmmmm!?

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#11 Jazz ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 01:52 PM

Just go and buy a new boat or a new engine, it will save you a lot of time and headache in the long run.

Boat motor mechanic told me the same thing when my 85hp Merc started to act up. I went right to the Honda dealer and bought a brand new 4 stroke.  I was amazed at how little fuel it used,,less than HALF what my other motors used to travel the same distance and you can hear yourself think even at full throttle. Wife was pretty happy also,,she could not believe I actually bought something brand new!

Ya it was cold that day!

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Edited by Jazz, June 05, 2015 - 01:53 PM.

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#12 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 05:50 PM

Boat motor mechanic told me the same thing when my 85hp Merc started to act up. I went right to the Honda dealer and bought a brand new 4 stroke. I was amazed at how little fuel it used,,less than HALF what my other motors used to travel the same distance and you can hear yourself think even at full throttle. Wife was pretty happy also,,she could not believe I actually bought something brand new!
Ya it was cold that day!


The new 4 strokes are amazing. Buddy has a merc 50hp 2 stroke. 8 hours on the water trolling and moving spot to spot. Having some fun cruising. We used a half a tank. Other buddy had a brand new bigger boat with a 150hp merc. Same trip. The needle barely moved. And the sound! There is none!
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#13 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2015 - 06:24 PM

All we ever used was a 55 gallon drum for little ones..  We didn't turn the prop fast though..  Just used the warm-up throttle lever.  On my big boat I used the hose C-clamp w/ hose installed on the water inlet on the lower unit.  I didn't rev the engine up as I didn't want to starve the pump and engine for water.  (unless changing water pumps is your idea of a fun day)  Then you can test / check the gears and verify prop movement and no noises or grinding.  

 

On a side note-  If you do repair that crack MAKE SURE THE BILGE PUMP WORKS!  Have a bunch of bailing buckets as well..  I wasn't so lucky when my engine froze.  A Cylinder cracked and white foam bubbled up out of every crankcase vent in the thing.  ($2200.00 lesson there.  Ouch!!  not a good day at all!!)  I always took my time and winterized it well after that.  

 

Now I don't worry about it because I sold it after I didn't use it for many years.  I summarize it, maybe take it out once then winterize it again.  Why bother?  Now the grandkids are getting older I'm sure I'll miss it..  

 

It's like my dad always said-  If you don't think you want your boat, wait a few years and you'll want it back!  So true..  I guess I'll stick to tractors and Convertible???


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, June 05, 2015 - 06:25 PM.

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