Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

1050 heavy smoking


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#1 Chubien ONLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 604 Thanks
  • 382 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted May 24, 2015 - 05:24 PM

Hi all

Been reading the forums for a while now and have found it to be a great source of information! The time has come for me to ask a few questions regarding the 1050 I acquired a little while back.

I bought this 1050 about 6 months ago, it has been sitting outside under a tarp for a few years with a blown head gasket. The tractor is all original and in somewhat of a decent shape.
The previous owner had rebuilt the engine not long before it was parked, I'm not sure of the extent of the rebuild but he did mention that he had changed the connecting rod for a new Wisconsin part. The mistake they made was to reuse the existing head gasket upon rebuild.

So long story short I replaced the head gasket, rebuilt the carb, removed/cleaned/adjusted the points, cleaned the gas tank, fitted new fuel valve and new gas line, changed engine oil.
Started her up today, following some carb adjustments and she now purrs like a kitten BUT she smokes quite a bit, it's most noticeable when she is first started up or when you vary the engine speed, I did run it for about 10-15 minutes hoping that it would settle but with no noticeable difference.

The previous owner did mention to me (and I believe him) that both tractors I picked up needed work (I also picked up an 850), but he stated that the engines were good and did not smoke.

So my question to you guys is, assuming his information is correct and the engine was not a smoker when parked, what should I be looking for? When I changed the head gasket the cylinder seemed clean and scratch free, I simply cleaned the head and put it all back together.

And secondly, I meant to take the 1050 for a little spin but I it was grinding trying to put her in gear, I noticed the 1050 did not have a stop on the driveshaft like my 800 has, anyways I noticed after trying to slow the driveshaft (with clutch pressed) that I was bogging the engine down, looks like despite the clutch disengaging the driveshaft remains engaged. I'm assuming it's likely due for a driveshaft/clutch rebuild but I was hoping to at least take the tractor up for a spin and shift some gears to ensure everything is good to go before I tear anything down.

I'm a little disappointed, this tractor was going to be my workhorse to replace my 900 and my 800. This is my 3'rd non-running bolens tubeframe which I have picked up and it's the only one with a smoking engine. The 900 I picked up last year had not run in 15 years and with literally nothing except for a carb kit, starter generater cleanup and has been running like a champ, no smoke and no leakages anywhere.

Any advice on the 2 problems would be appreciated.

Thanks
  • propane1, Antoniofuse and RssFeedstortrusavar have said thanks

#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,679 Thanks
  • 17,200 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 24, 2015 - 05:44 PM

Hello, Welcome to GTT! :wave:

 

Here's a few pointers

 

1) On Bolens that have been sitting a while it is common for the clutch to freeze up and stick to a side of the plate/driveshaft. This can be corrected by simply holding the clutch down and tapping the sheaves with a wooden mallet in the opposite direction of where it is holding up. The 6 speed tractors such as the 1050 used an actual brake plate assembly behind the clutch thus no longer requiring the drum by the shifter on the earlier 3 speed models.

 

2) Everyone seems to have their own definition of a "Rebuild" I'm wondering if the guy reused the rings after replacing the rod?

Another possibility is the ring is stuck due to sitting a long time or has excessive carbon deposits holding it in place causing oil to get by.


  • boyscout862, propane1 and Chubien have said thanks

#3 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,167 Thanks
  • 2,142 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted May 24, 2015 - 06:05 PM

Hello, and welcome to the forum !

 

I'm married to a French-Canadian (St. Martin, Beauce) and we visit relatives in the province often.  .....Out of curiosity, where are you located?

 

The engine may be smoking for one or more reasons.  ......Usually, if the rings are worn or stuck, the engine will smoke constantly while running.  .....You have already stated that the bore is not scratched, which is another possible cause.

 

Worn valve guides usually cause smoking on start-up and acceleration, but will clear up while running.

 

Too thin oil will also cause smoking.  .....If gas gets into the crankcase, it can dilute the oil and cause smoking.  .....5w and 10w oils will also cause smoking.  ....What weight oil are you using? 

 

Sometimes a breather problem can cause smoking.


  • Bolens 1000, boyscout862, propane1 and 1 other said thanks

#4 Chubien ONLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 604 Thanks
  • 382 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted May 24, 2015 - 06:52 PM

Bolens1000,
thanks for the tip for unfreezing the driveshaft, it's the information I was hoping for - a quick fix to take her out for a spin and assess the condition of the tranny.
I doubt they changed the ring, I suspect they broke the connecting rod and fixed the immediate problem, just the fact that they reused the head gasket is a good indication of how thorough the repair was. I'm leaning more to the possibility that the ring may be stuck from sitting, is there a quick way of unsticking them? Any chance they could settle after some running?
  • chieffan said thank you

#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,679 Thanks
  • 17,200 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:00 PM

There's really no quick fix for a stuck or broken worn ring usually once they wear or get stuck thats about it, alot of guys swear by the miracle oils such as sea foam and marvel oil but I have tried both and can say they didnt do anything to solve a sticky ring. 

 

Is the the smoking heavy at all times?

 

Another quick check that requires minimal efforts is the breather in the valve cover like Bruce mentioned.


  • Chubien and chieffan have said thanks

#6 Chubien ONLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 604 Thanks
  • 382 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:02 PM

Bruce,

You raised good point about the oil, although I normally use 30 weight oil in my tractors I did use 10-40 rotellaT in this one. At first I thought this could have been the cause but yet my 900 on the same oil doesn't smoke at all.
The breather that you mention, is this the breather that goes to the carb?

I'm from the west side of the province, just west of Montreal 20 minute drive from the Ontario border.

Assuming this engine was not smoking when it was parked I'm leaning toward a stuck ring since it does seem to smoke all the time.
  • Bruce Dorsi and chieffan have said thanks

#7 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,679 Thanks
  • 17,200 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:11 PM

Generally these should be run on 30 or 10W-30 weight regular not synthetic oil

 

Since you used a heavy oil the signs of ring failure seem more evident.

 

The breather tube goes into the base of the air cleaner, behind the cover is a thin reed that acts as a vacuum m make sure it lays flat against the hole and is not missing or bent.


  • boyscout862, Chubien and chieffan have said thanks

#8 Chubien ONLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 604 Thanks
  • 382 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:13 PM

The smoking is heavy on startup, not so bad on idle, a little more on full throttle but heavy when transitioning the RPM's. For example I let it sit at idle for one minute and full throttle it let's out a pretty dense smoke.
Wife opened the service door to the harage and the fire/smoke alarm went off in the house!
  • boyscout862, propane1 and chieffan have said thanks

#9 propane1 ONLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 6,105 Thanks
  • 3,197 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:30 PM

Lots of good ideas for you from the fellas, but I was wondering that , if they did or didn't replace the rings , they may have broken them putting it back together. Also could have used the wrong rings if engine was bored out. Some times putting some transmission oil in with the engine oil and some in the gas will help to clear out any dirt in the ring and valves. That has worked some for me. But I would say you have to take it apart to see for sure. Noel
  • boyscout862, Chubien and chieffan have said thanks

#10 boyscout862 ONLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 9,763 Thanks
  • 7,528 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:34 PM

Welcome to GTT. First, I have had good luck using Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in in the gas of many engines since 1967. It has freed up and cleanned up many valves, pistons and rings for me. But, it takes months. It took 3 months in my daily driver minivan to stop the smoking and bring the compression up. It works very slowly in small engines. Second, You have what is basicly a good machine that was injured by a hack. I would just bite the bullet and overhaul that engine now. Our sponsors can help with parts. I am worried that someone that reuses a head gasket would not use a torque wrench on the rod.

 

You can download the manuals that you need from our Manuals Section(3 per day for free). Post pics with questions for more clarity. The 1050 is a great tractor. Good Luck, Rick


  • Bolens 1000, propane1, Chubien and 1 other said thanks

#11 Chubien ONLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 604 Thanks
  • 382 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted May 25, 2015 - 04:17 PM

Thanks all for your input, rebuilding the engine will definitely be the last thing on the to do list, I have a spare 1050 but its an earlier model with the tr10 engine, I may have a go at starting that one up and see how it runs.
The long term plan was to completely restore the 1050 but without major engine work, from what I have read it adds up quickly rebuilding the Wisconsin's.
I'll start by freeing up the clutch as soon as the weather allows, if she runs good I'll consider having the engine redone, would rather have the 1050 with the tra10 restored instead of the tr10...

#12 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,679 Thanks
  • 17,200 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 25, 2015 - 04:22 PM

Wisconsin still has pretty good parts support and I can quote you some prices if you wish to rebuild

 

Many times these can be brought back to life with a set of rings and valve work, Usually you can be back up and running for under $200 which is not bad IMO


  • boyscout862 and Chubien have said thanks

#13 Chubien ONLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 604 Thanks
  • 382 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted May 25, 2015 - 07:27 PM

Well could not wait so made a trip to the garage and freed up that clutch in no time at all, I did not have a wood mallet so I carefully tapped the sheave using a standard hammer, worked great! Within 5 minutes I could turn that shaft by hand with the clutch pressed. Thanks bolens1000!

It does look like it will need a new clutch disc among other things (it's pretty thin)

20150525_191659.jpg

Topped up the tranny and drove her around in all gears hi/lo and everything works perfect, I'm happy about that.

YouTube video of the engine running:Bolens 1050 smoking:

A few more pics:


20150525_185947.jpg 20150525_190231.jpg 20150525_190106.jpg 20150525_190448.jpg 20150525_190314.jpg 20150525_190106.jpg

Engine seems to run real good other than the smoke, it needs belts,bronze bushing,throttle/choke cables lubricated and adjusted, tires and paint.

One other problem I just noticed is the left front wheel has a lot of slop in the stearing, I can kick that left wheel about 10 degrees without moving the stearing or the other wheel.

Bolens1000, I'll be putting a parts list together soon and pm you.

Edited by chubien, May 25, 2015 - 08:05 PM.

  • boyscout862 said thank you

#14 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,167 Thanks
  • 2,142 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted May 25, 2015 - 08:11 PM

It's hard to tell from the video, but it seems there's as much black smoke (rich mixture) as there is blue smoke (oil).


  • Chubien said thank you

#15 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,146 Thanks
  • 4,491 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted May 25, 2015 - 08:42 PM

It's hard to tell from the video, but it seems there's as much black smoke (rich mixture) as there is blue smoke (oil).

I agree.  More black than blue.  try readjusting the high speed on the carb and bet that will clear up the black smoke.  The run it a while and if you can work it all the better and that clue smoke could disappear too.  No promises though.  Good luck.


  • boyscout862 said thank you




Top