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Briggs L Head Problems


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 09:31 AM

Have a Briggs 16 hp L Head in a Bolens G16XT.  Cab has been thoroughly cleaned, new kit, new fuel filter and lines and fresh fuel in the tank.  It starts right up every time but when we get the carb adjusted for slightly fast idle, it won't rev up.  When it is adjusted for full throttle it wont idle worth a darn. Real rough in both situations.  It acts like carb adjustment situation.  Do these engines normally run rough at idle ? ?  My first experience with a Briggs twin.  I welcome any and all suggestions.



#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 09:44 AM

When I've had a similar experience it was a tiny passage in the carb was plugged. Did you pop out the welch pluggs and clean behind them? They are a pain but sometimes necessary. I've use a strand of copper wire to clean the tiny passages(gentily). Good Luck, Rick

 

It just occured to me, check for a vacuum leak first.


Edited by boyscout862, May 24, 2015 - 09:45 AM.

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#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 02:20 PM

Sounds like a tiny passage plugged.

 

Did you rebuild the fuel pump attached to the carb?


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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 04:19 PM

NO, I did not remove the welch plugs..  Maybe I should have.  And no I did not rebuilt the fuel pump.  Before I tried to start it the first time I removed the output line and attached a short length and turned it over several times and seemed to pump fuel OK.  But that don't mean something could have gone wrong after a short run I guess.  The fuel pump is mounted down away from the cab with one screw into the tin cover.

 

If it stops raining will get it up on the table tomorrow and go into it again.  Thanks for the tips.


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#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 11:53 AM

When I've had a similar experience it was a tiny passage in the carb was plugged. Did you pop out the welch pluggs and clean behind them? They are a pain but sometimes necessary. I've use a strand of copper wire to clean the tiny passages(gentily). Good Luck, Rick
 
It just occured to me, check for a vacuum leak first.

NO, I did not remove the welch plugs..  Maybe I should have.  And no I did not rebuilt the fuel pump.  Before I tried to start it the first time I removed the output line and attached a short length and turned it over several times and seemed to pump fuel OK.  But that don't mean something could have gone wrong after a short run I guess.  The fuel pump is mounted down away from the cab with one screw into the tin cover.
 
If it stops raining will get it up on the table tomorrow and go into it again.  Thanks for the tips.


OK guys. I was wrong. Was thinking of the G12.  :(  :hitting_self_roller:
This carb does not have welch plugs. I did re build the fuel pump with new gaskets that IS mounted to the carb.  Have it off on the bench now going over it with  fine tooth comb.  Replaced the vacuum line as it was not fitting tight at the top of the engine.  Made a couple of plugs likw for the end of the throttle and choke shafts to seal them from air leaks.  Running fine strand of copper wire through the lines in thje carb to be sure they are open.  The one going down into the bottom of the bowl I believe was plugged as I had to kind of push the wire up and down before it went through.  Can see light thru it now with sun shining in the bowl. 

Going back together now and hope for the best.  :thumbs: :reading_the_manual:


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#6 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 01:05 PM

Let us know how it does(with pics). Good Luck, Rick



#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 08:23 PM

Spent most of the day working on the V twin Briggs.  Went through the carb and found one tiny hole I think was plugged.  Cleaned it good an recheck everything put it back together and on the tractor.  Fired it up and didn't really make much difference.   First thing I found was the throttle link from the carb to governor  arm did not have the insert in the arm hole.  This allowed the arm to move without moving the throttle.  Patch job took care of that situation.  A small wire tied the link to the front of the hole in the arm.  Then found that the governor arm seemed to catch right after it started to move with throttle movement.  Could move the throttle to full open and nothing happened with the RPM.  Found a spring under the linkage was out of position and was preventing the governor arm to move.  Got that located where it belonged and the governor moved like it was supposed to.

 

Re-adjusted the slow and high speed jets as best I could and it was running pretty decent.  Shut it off and started it a few times and all went well.  Somebody did a real hack job around that carburetor and governor linkage.  Home made connecting links, missing grommets, spring in the wrong place and I think even a wrong spring I had to shorten to make things work right.  The throttle on that engine dose not move much at all between idle and full throttle.  Less than 1/4 inch between the idle adjustment screw and the stop arm.  Has decent variable speed, idles decent and has good high speed rpm so going to leave it at that until further problems arise.

[attachment=156345:Link Spring.JPG]

This shows the small spring I put around the Throttle link from the governor arm to keep the link against the front of the hole in the arm.

[attachment=156346:Idl Ssprng.JPG]

 

Same spring.  Hard to get any photos as the whole mechanism is under the air cleaner and it is a real pain to get it off and all the tube back in the lose putting it back on

 

I use fine wire to tie the throttle link to the front and down into the governor arm.  The short spring that runs from the arm to another point under the linkage was so long that the throttle was wide open and the governor did not move.  Cit that spring and bent a shorter hook on the end and it now moves with the throttle control.  Not the best solution but for now it is working.  tomorrow it going up on the work bench and replace the drive tension spring with a stiffer one.  I think the one on there is shot as there is a lot of bouncing to the arm and even the clutch pedal, which feel real soft.

 

If it don't rain another half inch again tonight will put the blade on it and move some rock and dirt ( mud?) around that needs doing and see how it works under a load.  Been a real pain but think I came out on the upper end of things.


Edited by chieffan, May 25, 2015 - 08:26 PM.


#8 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 07:25 AM

Picked up a couple things at my Briggs dealer and asked about that grommet that is to go in the end of the governor arm.  As I expected, not an individual part and the arm is NLA.  So--- being a smart guy like he is,  came up with a plastic throttle link attachment piece for a Kohler.  Had to drill out the hole in the end of the arm just a bit so the plastic would go  in.  Heated the throttle link to go to one 90° bend rather than a Z bend, put it all together and a nice snug fit.  Works better yet.  Where there is a will there is a way.  Now on to fix the clutch pulley belt bounce.



#9 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 11:20 AM

Good to hear that you got it going. I've seen some with no adjustments. They are permanently set at the factory with no way to adjust them.  



#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2015 - 08:04 AM

The problem now is all in the linkage between the control wire and throttle on the carb.  Nothing seems to move like it is supposed to.  Control wire set to close the carb when in full idle position.  Have to move it 2/3 way towards full before the engine starts to speed up and then jumps up.  Basically little throttle control.  Going at it again this morning and see if I can figure out how to make this thing work.  Otherwise, going to have to break down and take it some place.  Not any place around I know that I really trust though.



#11 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2015 - 06:10 PM

Got that thing in the shop and started from score 0.  Did the static adjustment on the governor arm.  It was OK.  I noticed that the arm where the wire Z attaches moves quite a bit before anything else happens.  Relocated the cable housing so that when the throttle lever is moved, the rest starts to move also.  Had to move the one spring from the third hole in the governor arm to the end one.  Fired it up and let it warm up good.  Checked the throttle lever position from idle to full and seems OK.  Hard to tell without a tach.  Got it outside and put it to work on the yard cart with a couple fruit tress that I needed to get planted.  Ran fine, responsive, and finally the tractor I had hoped for.  Why Briggs had to have such a complicated throttle set of for this engine is beyond me.

 

Now on the next problem.  1053 runs for 50' under a tiller load and then quite.  Starts right up and runs good for 50' - then quits.  Going to put a spark checker on it and see if it is an ignition problem of fuel.






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