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Ford LGT165 Revival

ford engine swap lgt165 repower 1977 ford repower

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#61 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2015 - 02:37 PM

Nearly time to go back to this. I may have to use the patio table umbrella to work under though. I am just hoping I don't have the cam one notch out. But it will not go past half throttle.



#62 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2015 - 03:35 PM

I said to heck with everything else and pulled the side panels off the Ford. Went to fire it it and couldn't believe it! Fired off with no jump. High speed issue turned out to be the high speed carb setting. It is running great. Drove it around some and the 'whine' it had is gone! Let it run at about half throttle as I need to retorque the head. But it is ready to finish putting it back together. Need to do some muffler repair, no biggie! But I am one happy camper. It charges, everything works! Glad to have the Ford back among the living!

Do you folks let it cool over night before retorqueing the head?


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#63 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2015 - 05:34 PM

 

Do you folks let it cool over night before retorqueing the head?

Absolutely.


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#64 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2015 - 06:25 PM

Well after I got done fooling with the rust bucket muffler, I could put my hand on the head for a long time, so I retorqued it. Muffler is 'fixed' as well as can be expected. So tomorrow I can put everything back together and enjoy this tractor!


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#65 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2015 - 12:55 PM

It's all back together! Here's the muffler.

2015-06-19 16.10.26.jpg     2015-06-19 16.10.34.jpg

2015-06-19 16.17.17.jpg     2015-06-19 17.30.39.jpg

 

Couldn't do a very pretty patch job as the metal is just about gone.

Muffler reinstalled and the shroud. Got the grille back on and lined up.

2015-06-20 09.03.03.jpg

 

Air filter is on. Time for side covers.

2015-06-20 09.38.19.jpg

 

Shot of the hour meter so I know when the engine was installed.

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All back together!

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After a nice wax job!

2015-06-20 10.38.49.jpg

 

Working on a seat. Not a lot better, but has cushion left!

 


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#66 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2015 - 02:45 PM

Got the seat on. Lots more comfy that the other one. Even painted the back of this one.

2015-06-20 13.49.43.jpg     2015-06-20 13.49.59.jpg

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I took it out for a spin! Muffler is much quieter and it did real well.

 


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#67 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2015 - 04:27 PM

That's Nice, real nice. I'd be proud to own that.


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#68 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 04:05 AM

I put the deck back on it and mowed some. Seemed to do well, need to get it lubed up. Should have done that before I put it on, but! Oh well, I'll just jack up the front of the tractor and do it. Still have some issues with that carb. May have the float just a tad high as it will sputter some with the bouncing about.


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#69 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 05:50 AM

It's just not used to running yet, is all.
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#70 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 06:12 AM

Looks good !  Bet your glad to get seat time on that one again .



#71 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 09:30 AM

No seat time today! Had to take the deck back off. 2 spindles had loose bearings. Got one apart and the bearings are loose in the spindle housings. Not sure if I can 'knurl' them enough with a center punch to tighten them up. That sucks!


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#72 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 10:21 AM

I cleaned the grease out so I could see what I am working with. The bearing OD's are right at 2.045". Housing is measuring 2.055". So I need to tighten it about .010". Where's that Daniel guy when you need him?



#73 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 11:01 AM

Out of curiosity would JB Weld work there. I know that I have places where it worked very well that surprise me how well it has lasted. I have the spindles from a one mower deck put have yet to get the pulleys off. The mower deck was so rusty that removing the spindles was no problem. I just can not decide what would be the best way to do this with out bending the pulley. I have been using the trans fluid/acetone mixture but it has not helped so far. May need to get a press to get them lose.  

 

Mower.jpg

 

Charlie



#74 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 11:37 AM

Out of curiosity would JB Weld work there. I know that I have places where it worked very well that surprise me how well it has lasted. I have the spindles from a one mower deck put have yet to get the pulleys off. The mower deck was so rusty that removing the spindles was no problem. I just can not decide what would be the best way to do this with out bending the pulley. I have been using the trans fluid/acetone mixture but it has not helped so far. May need to get a press to get them lose.  

 

attachicon.gifMower.jpg

 

Charlie

Just remember they have the half moon keys in both ends. The one I just took apart, I was able to drive the shaft down enough to get the pulley off. It will give you enough slack to get a bearing separator between there.

 

I 'knurled' the first housing. It tightened things enough I had to use a socket to put the bearings in.

2015-06-21 10.36.56.jpg     2015-06-21 10.37.06.jpg

 

The first pick is of the bottom side. I did more there as it is where the bearing was real loose.

 

I prepacked the grease before I put the second bearing in. Once I had it most of the way filled, I drove the bearing home and added grease slowly with the grease gun until it oozed out a little in the bearings. This first spindle was no where near full of grease and the top bearing had seals on both sides. Took the seal out of the inside and I know it is full. Ford Manual says to add 2-3 'pumps' yearly to these. Considering how hard it is to get to the zerks, I want to be sure they have plenty right now.

 

I plan to take the other 2 apart and fix them while I have it down.

 

I don't think JB Weld would work for this occasion. You would have to let it dry, then 'machine' it to fit the bearing in. Think it would just break up and fall out then.


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#75 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2015 - 12:33 PM

Loctite makes some stuff that would likely work well along with the dimpling you put in there.  I can't remember the Loctite #, but it's for building up shafts & such.


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