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Ford LGT165 Revival

ford engine swap lgt165 repower 1977 ford repower

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#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 08:32 AM

I looked over the Front Hydraulic Kit PDF and see that the handle (#20) can be modified to use and the link (#18) to the valve will work also.

Front Hydraulic kit.JPG

 

Got some rain moving in so I brought the hood, grille & both side panels up on the front porch so I can work on polishing them if it's too wet to do anything else.


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#32 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 10:24 AM

I'm glad I didn't get in a rush to put the engine back in. Finding lots of things to fix and make this a much better tractor.
Does the Kohler turn clockwise when looking at the flywheel end? Can't remember at the moment! The reason I ask is the drive shaft has a 1/2" tip sticking out & I though about hooking a drill up to it to see about flushing air out of the 'new' hydraulics. Not sure if it will work, but worth a try! :smilewink:

When looking at the hydro it turns ccw ;-)

Edited by skyrydr2, May 28, 2015 - 10:25 AM.

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#33 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 03:25 PM

Nice save on that one. :thumbs:

Ditto


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#34 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 03:26 PM

I'm glad I didn't get in a rush to put the engine back in. Finding lots of things to fix and make this a much better tractor.

Does the Kohler turn clockwise when looking at the flywheel end? Can't remember at the moment! The reason I ask is the drive shaft has a 1/2" tip sticking out & I though about hooking a drill up to it to see about flushing air out of the 'new' hydraulics. Not sure if it will work, but worth a try! :smilewink:

I did it on mine to test the system prior to starting the repower.


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#35 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 04:52 PM

Well, the second hydraulic circuit is on hold. Need fittings, no $ for them. You check out the other thread for those issues.

But I did get the hood, grille and side panels polished up some.

The one on the left is done, the right one is next.

2015-05-28 13.06.50.jpg


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#36 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 08:48 PM

Nice work, you done the right thing, to fix things up while you had the chance. Nice to have the patience. Noel
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#37 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 09:25 PM

I had to do some repairs to my LGT 145 & found it would be easier to do with the seat pan removed. Since I have it torn down this I am also doing the repair to the part shown in my post of Interesting Wear Points. From what I found & since you already have it torn down this far you may want to check for this also.

 

Under Seat Pan.jpg

 

I was really surprised to find that much dirt on the frame under the seat.

 

Charlie

 


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#38 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 03:14 AM

I had to do some repairs to my LGT 145 & found it would be easier to do with the seat pan removed. Since I have it torn down this I am also doing the repair to the part shown in my post of Interesting Wear Points. From what I found & since you already have it torn down this far you may want to check for this also.

 

attachicon.gifUnder Seat Pan.jpg

 

I was really surprised to find that much dirt on the frame under the seat.

 

Charlie

I had all the sheet metal off it not long ago for paint. It has sat since the engine blew up. I have changed out the front axle pivot pin, but it may need more attention. I have a new pin that Keith made up for me way back that may be put in this time. I've been lubing some things as I go.



#39 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 04:13 AM

Ken , Can you take some dimensions of the piston that does the deck lifting? I want to add one to my 125. Parts surplus has plenty to choose from just need to know what to compare it to. Thanks ,Tom


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#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 05:32 AM

Ken , Can you take some dimensions of the piston that does the deck lifting? I want to add one to my 125. Parts surplus has plenty to choose from just need to know what to compare it to. Thanks ,Tom

You mean the cylinder?  I think they are 4" stroke. I may be able to get a closed length. No way to get to the piston as I think they have welded ends.

Looking at the parts list, doesn't help much as all it says is ' CYLINDER, Hyd. Lift 2" '. I think that refers to a 2" bore with a 1" rod.

I'll get some pics of the one I plan to use at the front.


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#41 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 08:11 AM

Got light rain this morning. May last most of the day. I do have the tunnel cover to fix like I did the dash.


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#42 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 08:47 AM

Here's the lift cylinder dimensions and pics.

2" bore, 1" rod.

Rod end hole is 1/2", cyl. end hole is 3/4".

Closed length is 9.25".

Open length is 12.75".

 

Not sure why this stroke is 3.5", but that's the measurements.

2015-05-29 08.33.01.jpg     2015-05-29 08.36.23.jpg


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#43 tiretrx OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 09:49 AM

Great thread. Love all the pics. Really making progress and doing some nice, clean work. Stay dry!


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#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 12:28 PM

That's hard to do around here! I think I'm growing webs between the toes!



#45 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 05:20 PM

Between raindrops I got the tunnel cover looking much better. It is not finished as yet as I plan to add more 'bling' to it.

Here's a before pic:

2015-05-28 15.16.42.jpg    
2015-05-28 15.16.42.jpg

 

 
And this is how it looks now:
2015-05-29 17.00.13.jpg     2015-05-29 17.00.24.jpg
 
The left side had a big chunk missing.
 

 






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